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How-To: Remove your turbocharger

C. love

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Baaa ha ha ha ha ha welcome to HELL! I had the same problem and well it was a F'n nightmare! My suggestions unplug and remove the map and cam position sensors; you may need to crawl on top of the motor bump them wrong they will break. Also unplug the sensor that goes to the AC lines.

So Mine had litterally 1 thread holding the turbo to the Dp, the bolt would turn but wouldnt go in or out. It, of course, was the bolt that is closest to the head. You couldnt get leverage to pry it out or anything in to cut it off. I ended up using an air hammer to break the head off. I used an Awl and a hammer once it was out and a very light wack to pop the remainder of the bolt out of the turbine housing. I couldnt believe how little it was stick and how big of a bastard it was being.

My fix was using a through bolt and nut. I could have tapped and fixed the threads but id rather not deal with that again
 


JPGC

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Ha ha, I've been running two bolts attaching my down pipe for about 25k miles now. No leaks att so I'm gonna let it be until I upgrade. The bolts were definitely in there from factory.
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #104
Ha ha, I've been running two bolts attaching my down pipe for about 25k miles now. No leaks att so I'm gonna let it be until I upgrade. The bolts were definitely in there from factory.
Funny story... I never saw a downpipe gasket until I just ordered one and got it a week ago, lol.
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #107
Well the turbo is on and double F that heat shield.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea, its a total pita. Mostly because the bolts are so hidden in sorta weird places.

Hope everything went ok
 


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Dundalk
Yea, its a total pita. Mostly because the bolts are so hidden in sorta weird places.

Hope everything went ok
Thanks a ton for this great write up I referenced it quite a bit! Only place I messed up was we put the coolant lines on before the heat shield during reassembly but managed to snake it in anyhow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #109


Flat head screw driver wide blade.
Used for popping out the oil feed and return as well as 4 headlight screws.

Flat head screw driver narrow blade.
Used to pull/pry out the clips that hold the upper and lower cowl together at the seam.

#1 Phillips head screw driver.
Used to remove the 2 plastic screws that hold the plastic clips in the headlights. A #2 size tends to strip them.

Long flex head 3/8 ratchet.
Used for torquing and removing manifold/Dp/turbine housing bolts that require some "ummF"

Short flex head 3/8 ratchet.
Used for snugging up the hard to reach stuff.

1/4" drive sockets...
9/32 (used for air intake clamps and stock hot pipe clamps).
5/16 (head shield bolts, oil feed to cylinder head bolt, air intake parts).
10mm (turbo water feed MOUNT bolts, wastegate mount bolts, turbo v-band clamp, lower cowl 4 screws ).
E7 reverse torx socket ( used for re-installing studs for manifold if they back out when removing the nuts).

1/4 drive fine tooth ratchet

Micro bit driver ratchet with T-27 torx ( or a T-27 torx bit with a 1/4" wrench ). Used for oil return line to oil pan screw.

3/8 drive sockets....
10mm mid-deep (Downpipe bolts).
3/8 extension.
17mm (water feed/return lines on the turbo).
15mm (wind shield wiper arm screws).
1/2" 6-point mid-deep or deep-well ( used for manifold/turbine housing nuts).
1/4" extension
10mm ratcheting wrench. Downpipe bolts.

5mm hex is also required to swap over the BOV and the wastegate solenoid mount.

Not pictured is a small puller to remove the windshield wiper arms. Tiny tiny puller.

Some of these tools are actually not REQUIRED ( like you may NOT NEED a ratcheting 10mm wrench or 2 different 10mm sockets etc ). But I finally made it a point to set aside every single tool used so I could share
 


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Thanks for doing this, Sourskittle. It is contributions like this to the community that convinced me to buy a cyborg over other options towards the end of the year, hopefully. Really like the design choices of the new setup.
 


BronxBomber

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Thanks for doing this, Sourskittle. It is contributions like this to the community that convinced me to buy a cyborg over other options towards the end of the year, hopefully. Really like the design choices of the new setup.
Bryan is a cool dude and always willing to help people out no matter what their set up or who they purchased it from. That's my Cyborg getting a 39 makeover btw[strongman][loveboost]
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #113
I bought this to help with window wiper removal. Vinny's car already had them off once ( and I put anti-seize on them ) so they were removed by hand with ease. But the first time removing them can really stick.
 


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It's entirely possible to remove the manifold and turbo together out through the top. But with the downpipe connected...? I've screwed around enough with removing/installing turbos and downpipes on this car, so I feel pretty confident in saying it's not going to happen due to the limited space and shape of the downpipe. However, I won't dissuade you from an attempt.
So I'm about to pull out the stock turbo...oil, coolant, etc all off.

I see a new manifold gasket is included with my kit, but is there really a reason to remove the exhaust manifold or can I just take out the 3 bolts holding the turbo to the manifold and the three bolts holding the turbo to the downpipe and then remove it out the top?

And thanks for posting these instructions Sour Skittle!
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #116


Added this to the tool list if you've never pulled your wiper arms off, this helps big time, and it's $5
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #117
Added in some stuff about removing the 3 turbine to manifold bolts and downpipe bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


Based

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Can the heat shield really stay on with most of the bolts removed? If the heat shield bolts are the hardest part, I'm thinking about taking a few off before I actually go to remove my turbo just to make it easier
 


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Can the heat shield really stay on with most of the bolts removed? If the heat shield bolts are the hardest part, I'm thinking about taking a few off before I actually go to remove my turbo just to make it easier
If you undo the dual water lines first the heat shield comes off easy. If your trying to work it around the water lines it's a huge pain.

Mine ended all bent up and lost the screws....so it never went back on.
 


Rocketst

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Does anyone know the pitch and thread count of the header bolts? I sheared one pretty bad and want to tap out the hole with a bottom tap.
 


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