Rear Seat Delete and weights

[M-Sport fan]

You might want to grab one of these. I believe that this temp spare is what Fiesta SFE pkg sedans got as part of the option spec. It is feather light compared to what the ST got.
I think I paid Twenty bucks for it at a junkyard.

Yeah, I am thinking about one of those, as well as a lighter all alloy jack (like some of the higher zoot Euro/Teuton cars come from the factory with).

But then I think about how that compact spare would fare IF I had to use it for a flat when working on a rally stage, and it gives me pause (but I could always just re-install the steelie right before I leave for rallies).

 

[flbchbm]

...reason being; much less complicated installation, NO worries of current drop (which does happen NO MATTER the gauge of the wire used), less overall weight added (partially due to NOT having to use long runs of 2 gauge wire, and no battery box), also not having to tear up the interior carpeting, and leaving big bumps also due to said huge gauge wire.

My 2001 V70 2.4T wagon had the battery in the left rear, under the deck lid. No issues. I would play the stereo while washing/polymering, not waxing. (I never use wax anymore. I only use Black Fire's Wet Diamond polymer sealant since 2004)

 

[M-Sport fan]

My 2001 V70 2.4T wagon had the battery in the left rear, under the deck lid. No issues.

Did it come from the factory that way, or did you relocate it there?

 

[flbchbm]

Did it come from the factory that way, or did you relocate it there?

Factory. Normal life cycle with the original.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[gtx3076]

Did it come from the factory that way, or did you relocate it there?

I addressed this before, you will not see noticeable voltage drop extending the cables 5 or even 10 feet if you size the cable correctly. I'd even argue you probably don't even have to upsize the wire.

I'm an electrician, we don't even consider upsizing wire until we're pushing 100 ft or more. If it's sensitive equipment that absolutely cannot see more than 3% VD we'll start upsizing at 50' or more. A healthy car battery is usually sits at about 14V. Only if you're adding other than stock loads (with sound systems and such) you'd be fine just extending stock wire gauge to the rear.

 

[Snrub]

After removing the rear seats there was a surprising amount of noise from the back. I used a sticky back foam/aluminum duct insulation, instead of costly dynamat to quiet it down. There's still more of noise than before from further back. I think the rear seats absorbed a lot of noise when in the up position. For a floor where the seats once resided, I bolted and zip tied a MDF panel. I tossed a cheap floor mat on top. This part of the floor angles down slightly towards the front. MDF was chosen for it's flexibility to accommodate the natural curvature.

 

[flbchbm]

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After removing the rear seats there was a surprising amount of noise from the back. I used a sticky back foam/aluminum duct insulation, instead of costly dynamat to quiet it down. There's still more of noise than before from further back. I think the rear seats absorbed a lot of noise when in the up position. For a floor where the seats once resided, I bolted and zip tied a MDF panel. I tossed a cheap floor mat on top. This part of the floor angles down slightly towards the front. MDF was chosen for it's flexibility to accommodate the natural curvature.

I plan on a similar rear seat delete, but mounting that board higher, so I can place the super-slim subwoofer wedge and amp under it. FYI, the noise you are hearing will not be subdued by KilMat on the flooring. The sound is coming from the SIDES of the cargo area (over the rear tire). You need to add Ensolite type sheet foam to those areas. I installed the KilMat on the whole cargo area, spare tire, top and front of the gas tank area. I'll add the ensolite to the rear cargo and seat bottom area when I do the side cargo areas. So much left to do... Too many projects, so little time and money. (car, home and music studio improvements)

 

[Snrub]

I
FYI, the noise you are hearing will not be subdued by KilMat on the flooring. The sound is coming from the SIDES of the cargo area (over the rear tire). You need to add Ensolite type sheet foam to those areas. I installed the KilMat on the whole cargo area, spare tire, top and front of the gas tank area. I'll add the ensolite to the rear cargo and seat bottom area when I do the side cargo areas. So much left to do...

The insulation I used on the floor did quiet things down some. What you've said makes sense, I'm definitely hearing tire/wheel/brake related noise. I also wonder if the hatch itself is part of the issue.

 

[Jabbit]

I plan on a similar rear seat delete, but mounting that board higher, so I can place the super-slim subwoofer wedge and amp under it. FYI, the noise you are hearing will not be subdued by KilMat on the flooring. The sound is coming from the SIDES of the cargo area (over the rear tire). You need to add Ensolite type sheet foam to those areas. I installed the KilMat on the whole cargo area, spare tire, top and front of the gas tank area. I'll add the ensolite to the rear cargo and seat bottom area when I do the side cargo areas. So much left to do... Too many projects, so little time and money. (car, home and music studio improvements)

Can you talk more specifically about the products/amounts you used? My car is gutted from the front seat back, except for headliner. I wouldn't mind adding 10 lbs or so back in if it cut down on noise.

 

[flbchbm]

Can you talk more specifically about the products/amounts you used? My car is gutted from the front seat back, except for headliner. I wouldn't mind adding 10 lbs or so back in if it cut down on noise.

disclaimer...I am not an expert, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night........ IMHO, the dyna and Kil mats are for deadening the resonating/vibrating/transmitting of road sounds via the metal surfaces that face the road. And around door speakers. The closed cell foam (ensolite is a brand) is for overall sound deadening and insulation. There are TONS of info on what to use where.......tons of it....lots of arguments, debates, opinions, etc...lol If your budget allows only one item, and it were ME...I would use closed cell foam to get overall deadening AND temperature insulation. Then you only need a little bit of kilmat for the door panels (around the speakers and some directly behind the speaker on the inboard side of the outer door shell w/foam over that. (something I still have yet to do...I wanted to go the easiest accessed locations first, cargo, and go forward from there). Measure 3 times, order once. You can always order more. You do NOT have to cover every single inch with Kilmat, but may want to with the foam for the best effect. The thicker the foam, the hard to get the floor carpet back in the nooks and crannies. I think I ordered 3mm for that and 5mm for the thickest everywhere else. As far as amounts...phew....sorry, you're on your own...I'm not good at that...for woodworking, I measure 5 times, cut twice, measure again, get a new piece of wood and start over.

I chose to use butyl rubber AND closed cell foam for the combo of sound deadening effect of both materials and heat/cold insulation with the foam.
I chose the KilMat brand butyl rubber, 50mil at Amazon. 80mil was overkill and heavier. Amazon.com : kilmat
For the ensolite, I bought a combo of some from amazon and some from AliExpress. Amazon.com : uxcell 118mil 16.36sqft Car Heat Insulation Cotton Foam Sound Absorption Deadener Mat 60"x 40" Waterproof and Moistureproof

 

[flbchbm]

The insulation I used on the floor did quiet things down some. What you've said makes sense, I'm definitely hearing tire/wheel/brake related noise. I also wonder if the hatch itself is part of the issue.

Yes, I forgot to mention the bottom of the hatch, behind the plastics... AND the roof....lots of heat can be blocked with the closed cell foam there!