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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

M-Sport fan

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Cleaned her up for a photoshoot! Closing in on the 1 year mark in a couple of weeks [emoji4]


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Looks SICK!! [twothumb]

About the only thing I don't love about those tires is that they are not XL rated, but being $50.00 EACH less than the XL rated Yok A052s in the 225/45-16 size, I may end up with them as well on either a second set of Dekagrams (in black this time), or a 16x8 set of gold or satin anthracite, Braid Fullrace As if I decide to go hog wild/for broke (they are more than 3 times each the price of the discounted Dekas [crazyeye][ohcrap] and about 3 pounds heavier as well). [:)]
 


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Gave her a wash after a month. I have to park in the street and had bad water spots on the paint and windows. I used the 3D water spot remover and it erased the spots on the paint with ease, the glass is still stained, got some of it out. maybe I can use something more course to remove it. Worked better than the chemical guys remover I used before. Washed then waxed and she’s good to go.
 


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green_henry

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Gave her a wash after a month. I have to park in the street and had bad water spots on the paint and windows. I used the 3D water spot remover and it erased the spots on the paint with ease, the glass is still stained, got some of it out. maybe I can use something more course to remove it. Worked better than the chemical guys remover I used before. Washed then waxed and she’s good to go.
I haven't tried it myself yet, but Mr Clean Magic Erasers are supposed to be great for glass stains.
 


KnockOff

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Gave her a wash after a month. I have to park in the street and had bad water spots on the paint and windows. I used the 3D water spot remover and it erased the spots on the paint with ease, the glass is still stained, got some of it out. maybe I can use something more course to remove it. Worked better than the chemical guys remover I used before. Washed then waxed and she’s good to go.
Try a clay bar. But not mothers. Clay magic. Those things are magic.

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Ontario, CA, USA
Tested out my new rhino ramps and swapped out my MTF with ravenol MTF-2 since I didn’t know when last owner did it. Oil fluid looked dirty, maybe some shavings but idk if it’s a cause for concern. 52K on the clock. Must say shifts are better and less clunkyness.
 


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South Pole
Went E30 (Dizzy) and drove around for 15 miles for the OAR to get to -1 (It was -.98 after 10 miles, which he recommends waiting for before you start blasting off, if switching from a different map.) I can't tell the difference, compared to my 93 tune, but then again I was in the suburbs where I couldn't do but one quick take off, and it was 50 degrees out on summer tires, so... Not exactly awesome grip.

I'll put more miles on it, and am sure I'll like it, come the next time I go for a ride. (Not my daily driver.) Fortunately, I'm spoiled for choice with E85 around here. The station, 2 miles away, that has it was tested at E75. Close enough. I used a mobile app, Cobb AP fuel amount monitor and also have a 2 gallon spare container in the hatch of that same E75 for when I go on my longer 350-500 mile drives where the ethanol is much more rare. (SE OH and WV) (Left the container outside of the car so fumes won't stink it up.)

Pretty much done with the Fiesta until my ol' 99 Camry (233k) dies, if ever. Ol' Bessy's still kicking and gonna to pass inspection on Monday. 60 miles a day on that thing. 2 jobs. 3 out of 4 of the rides to/from the jobs are rush hour. Not keen on doing that with a stick. (Have, didn't hate it, but why bother when you have a beater?)
 


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The bleed valve I ordered showed up early so I installed the Mountune radiator today. It took me a little over 3 hours. Not too bad just a lot of steps to complete. Hardest part was getting the fan shroud in and out. I lost one of the flaps on the side of the shroud. No idea where it went. Doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
The Mountune instructions aren't the best. I relied on YouTube videos to get things done correctly

I did run into trouble filling the radiator. I opened the bleed valve and filled the expansion tank. Progress was slow. It only took 1 gallon and would not take more without overfilling. Nothing was coming out of the bleed valve. Perplexed I started the car and let it warm up. No dice. So I took it for a drive and got it nice and warm. That seemed to do the trick. The expansion tank was nearly empty so I opened the bleed valve and refilled it. Coolant started to gush out the bleed valve. Closed that, filled the tank (it took another half gallon) and took another longer drive.
Its been cool out today, 65 degrees. I couldn't get the car over 194 degrees no matter how hard I beat on it. Most of the time it was in the 180-188 range. Brought it home and the expansion tank was right between low and full. So I think I'm good. I'll keep an eye on the levels.
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JDG

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Vibra-technics passenger side engine mount and Mishimoto Coolant Tank (not exactly proud to have a Mishimoto product on the car but it appears to be decently made and cost $100). Coolant tank fitment was good, welds are excellent, hopefully it holds up longer than the plastic bottle.

No added NVH from the motor mount which is pretty impressive. Torque steer issue is partially solved. Hoping the driver side mount with solve the rest of it.






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Melbourne
Vibra-technics passenger side engine mount and Mishimoto Coolant Tank (not exactly proud to have a Mishimoto product on the car but it appears to be decently made and cost $100). Coolant tank fitment was good, welds are excellent, hopefully it holds up longer than the plastic bottle.

No added NVH from the motor mount which is pretty impressive. Torque steer issue is partially solved. Hoping the driver side mount with solve the rest of it.






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Not sure if it was just mine but my mishimoto coolant tank ended up leaking everywhere through the sight glass. I had to remove it and plug the holes up with bungs..

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maestromaestro

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No added NVH from the motor mount which is pretty impressive. Torque steer issue is partially solved. Hoping the driver side mount with solve the rest of it.

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I have Powerflex side mounts and it solved bupkes as far as torque steer is concerned. It is not clear to me why side mounts would have anything to do with the torque steer in the first place. Stiffer mounts are meant to remove parasitic power loss associated with the engine movement. Torque steer that is present in all FWD cars with a transverse engine is due to the unequal driveshafts and shift of the weight backwards upon acceleration, which lightens the load on the front wheels and reduces the contact patch — so, acceleration and steering at the same time is a big ask. Mounts don’t play a big role in that.
 


Ford ST

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I was looking at slotted rotors and EBC redstuff on Whoosh, but I'll give those a look too! Love your pics btw
I don't recommended if you enjoy the bite of the OEM pad. Power stop pads in my honest opinion don't have very good bite. I have installed dozens of power stop pads..

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Hypergram

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I don't recommended if you enjoy the bite of the OEM pad. Power stop pads in my honest opinion don't have very good bite. I have installed dozens of power stop pads..

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Thanks for the heads up! Initial bite is a priority of mine. You have a recommendation for pads that have low dust and good bite?
 


Ford ST

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Thanks for the heads up! Initial bite is a priority of mine. You have a recommendation for pads that have low dust and good bite?
I do not unfortunately. Maybe try the OEM all season tire brake pads which are ceramic probably a lot less dust.

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M-Sport fan

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I took the risk of my Gestapo for the HOA neighbors telling the management company about me working on my car in my own driveway, and incurring a $150.00 fine, and finally installed the Vibra-technics 'fast road' RMM.

CRAPPY pic, but I could not get a good angle, or judge focus at that angle;

1586229460143.png

I did not actually drive it yet, but just judging from the startup, and moving the car from the driveway to the street parking space, I have to say that I am a bit disappointed (I even let it hit 122*F coolant temp to come off of open loop, and have that smoother closed loop idle).
It has fractionally/marginally less NVH than the CP-E it replaced, and it was done for the express reason of drastically reducing the said NVH of the CP-E unit. [:(]

Granted, it might 'break-in' a bit as everyone always says they do, especially rubber bushed ones like this.

I also did not put the car back up on the jack stands (it was LATE, and getting DARK when I finished) and loosen everything up and go topside and rock the whole engine back and forth by hand to 'settle it' as Vibra's instructions said to if it shows excessive NVH, but I really do wonder IF that could make any difference anyway.

I will leave it in for now, drive it some, and hope for the best, since I am getting way too old to be working upside down under a car for extended periods of time. [dunno]
Those of you with either your own small private lifts, or unlimited access to a lift just don't realize HOW lucky you are!! [wink]

While up on the stands already, I also swapped the 2 front exhaust hangers from the Cobbs to Whoosh's translucent blue ones just to see if that quelled some of the exhaust rattle I was getting when it was cold out, and did the spring oil change (Ravenol DXG 5W-30 with a Fram ULTRA (gold can) filter, and drained the Damond OCC (yielded about 2 ounces).

UPDATE; After driving around a bit, the reduction of NVH over the CP-E (and probably all of the high durometer poly RMMs as well) is more readily apparent, and actually noticeable.
Unless it somehow breaks, this item will stay on the car! [thumb]
 


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JDG

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I have Powerflex side mounts and it solved bupkes as far as torque steer is concerned. It is not clear to me why side mounts would have anything to do with the torque steer in the first place. Stiffer mounts are meant to remove parasitic power loss associated with the engine movement. Torque steer that is present in all FWD cars with a transverse engine is due to the unequal driveshafts and shift of the weight backwards upon acceleration, which lightens the load on the front wheels and reduces the contact patch — so, acceleration and steering at the same time is a big ask. Mounts don’t play a big role in that.
You literally just explained why the engines mounts help. The new mounts barely move in any direction. My OEM PSMM was so loose it could move in every direction by hand. Definitely a huge contributor to torque steer as the axle angles constantly change (imagine caster changing constantly under load as the engine moves around in the engine bay).


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maestromaestro

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You literally just explained why the engines mounts help. The new mounts barely move in any direction. My OEM PSMM was so loose it could move in every direction by hand. Definitely a huge contributor to torque steer as the axle angles constantly change (imagine caster changing constantly under load as the engine moves around in the engine bay).


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I will agree that they would ameliorate the engine’s excessive movement, but we’ll have to disagree as to the degree to which they help. It’s not the first order effect (that being the drivetrain geometry and its impact on the contact patch)- you are picking at the margins. So, they are beneficial, but they will NOT eliminate TS. I have daily experience with my FiST - with all 3 OEM mounts replaced (street, not race). Between the Sprint Booster and the spooling of the turbo, it’s like the 930 widowmaker. I jest, but...
 


JDG

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I will agree that they would ameliorate the engine’s excessive movement, but we’ll have to disagree as to the degree to which they help. It’s not the first order effect (that being the drivetrain geometry)- you are picking at the margins. So, they are beneficial, but they will NOT eliminate TS. I have daily experience with my FiST - with all 3 OEM mounts replaced (street, not race). Between the Sprint Booster and the spooling of the turbo, it’s like the 930 widowmaker. I jest, but...
Yeah I think we just fundamentally disagree. This is not crazy torque steer I’m describing. My car makes 320/320 and the torque steer is plenty manageable with the stock mounts. I noticed it get incrementally worse as my mounts started to fail. The upgraded PSMM fixed most of this.

You may want to consider upgrading to an engineered solution instead of just the inserts. You may change your tune. Maybe.


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