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Fiesta ST Lug Nut Size & Torque Specs

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Clarksville
#21
So I ordered a set of Steel open ended tuner lugs. They state not to go above 85 Ft-Lbs of torque.

So my question is, are these safe to use? As in, is the 100 Ft-Lbs that our manual warrants specifically because of the expansion of the threads on our cars in relation to the thread and design of our stock lug nuts? Or is this Ebay seller I bought them from full of crap? He tells me it's referencing to the factory lugs, but from what I learned of the stretching of bolts and etc, that the lugs aren't the ones stretching.

I'm trying to return them so I can look for lugs that are capable of being torqued to a higher specification without damage. However, I still want the tuner style without going with damned aluminum lugs.
 


Intuit

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#22
So I ordered a set of Steel open ended tuner lugs. They state not to go above 85 Ft-Lbs of torque.

So my question is, are these safe to use? As in, is the 100 Ft-Lbs that our manual warrants specifically because of the expansion of the threads on our cars in relation to the thread and design of our stock lug nuts? Or is this Ebay seller I bought them from full of crap? He tells me it's referencing to the factory lugs, but from what I learned of the stretching of bolts and etc, that the lugs aren't the ones stretching.

I'm trying to return them so I can look for lugs that are capable of being torqued to a higher specification without damage. However, I still want the tuner style without going with damned aluminum lugs.
Sounds like you've pretty much answered your own question. Better safe than stupid. Don't compromise the safety of others on the road for this. You're doing the right thing. [like]
 


Messages
27
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1
Location
Stafford
#23
Careful with Gorilla colored lugs, they flake really easy from what ive read. I opted for the black mcguard spline and locks. Had my wheels removed with impact guns several times and the lugs still look new.

Hey quick question for you, is that the gorilla lug nuts you have their? if so do they look like this in comparison to the orignal lug nut?




 


M-Sport fan

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#25
Has anyone given the McGard #64012 a try on OEM wheels? They seem the same as 64002, just slightly shorter. The OEM lugs are getting pretty busted up.
I know this is an ancient post, but I am currently using their black chrome version of these, the 64015s, on the factory wheels.

GREAT so far, as I do NOT like lugs which stick out too far (asking for trouble, BESIDES the additional, unnecessary added weight, even in the center of the wheel).
IF they made these in an even shorter yet, lighter, open ended version, I would get them for my Pro Race 1.2s. [wink]
 


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Location
Pomona
#27
what lug nuts would you guys/girl recommend on a black st? I just ordered the gold xxr 527 wheels. Thinking about green, what say you?
 


Intuit

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#29
what lug nuts would you guys/girl recommend on a black st? I just ordered the gold xxr 527 wheels. Thinking about green, what say you?
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=gold+xxr+527+wheels&FORM=HDRSC2
Okay, now that we can see them, black would be fine. Gold may attract additional attention so I think you'll want some sort of locks to behave as a theft deterrent of sorts. Some won't care that they're four stud. Although the "primary" colors supposedly go with anything, I don't think this wheel color will really go well with much other than silver or black. You might get away with a darker red, or white, if you're insistent on something less common.
 


alexrex20

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#30
You asked for an opinion. You got an opinion. Now you're offended by that opinion. What's the name of the mechanic you're gonna use to install your lug nuts?

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Location
San Jose
#31
Hey All,

bringing this thread back, similar question to above, but not from ebay.

I ordered Muteki SR48 from Ron at whoosh. I now notice on the back they say to torque 75-85 ft/lbs. What should I torque them to, stock 100, 85, or are they just unsafe?

Thanks,
Matt
 


M-Sport fan

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#32
I use the Muteki SR35s for my Pro Race 1.2s and torque them to the full 100 lb. ft. factory spec.

I noticed that on their packing as well, and figure that IF they cannot handle another 15 lb. ft. of torque, I should not be using/trusting them to hold on my wheels. ;)
They are (supposedly) a hardened, and/or heat treated steel after all.
 


Intuit

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#33
Hey All,

bringing this thread back, similar question to above, but not from ebay.

I ordered Muteki SR48 from Ron at whoosh. I now notice on the back they say to torque 75-85 ft/lbs. What should I torque them to, stock 100, 85, or are they just unsafe?

Thanks,
Matt
ALWAYS stick to the vehicle's specifications unless you have studs, hubs, rotors and wheels that allow you to go higher.

As a general rule, manufacturers have at least a 10% safety margin above specification. You're already at 15% over that spec. Add the possibility that your torque wrench may be a little off and you could be 20 or 25% over spec for those lug nuts. It could be that they simply did that for legal reasons. That torque would work for my previous vehicle, but not this one. Remember that those nuts are repeatedly torqued to that specification and for a lloonngg time. The vehicle may even be sold with those to an unsuspecting buyer.

Why chance it? There are plenty of fish in the sea. I'd find something else with a solid reputation.
 


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Location
Bowie
#34
What are the pros and cons of open ended lugs and closed?


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M-Sport fan

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#35
^^^The open ended are a little lighter, given the same material used, and there are no worries of whether or not the lug will seat against the wheel if one is using extended lug studs.

The closed end lug nuts offer a little more protection against rust/salt corrosion entering the assembly from the end of the lug stud, but they do weigh a tiny little bit more (again, they are near the very center of the wheel, so weight savings here is negligible at best ;) ).

Finally, some who do not like the aesthetics of the 'race look' of threads extending beyond the lug nut, will always opt for the closed ended versions.
 


Business6

Senior Member
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Location
Northern UT
#36
I've been waiting here at Firestone for, so far, an extra hour. Why, you might ask? The stock lug nuts, of course! My 91 Miata's oem lugs were stronger than these dog shit ones from Ford. They've had to shred the oem ones just to get them off but I'm keeping them to send to Ford. I'm forced to order Mcgard 64012 just to get my wheels back on---today, I hope.
 


Messages
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Location
Pomona
#37
I've been waiting here at Firestone for, so far, an extra hour. Why, you might ask? The stock lug nuts, of course! My 91 Miata's oem lugs were stronger than these dog shit ones from Ford. They've had to shred the oem ones just to get them off but I'm keeping them to send to Ford. I'm forced to order Mcgard 64012 just to get my wheels back on---today, I hope.
Madness yo


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M-Sport fan

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#38
I've been waiting here at Firestone for, so far, an extra hour. Why, you might ask? The stock lug nuts, of course! My 91 Miata's oem lugs were stronger than these dog shit ones from Ford. They've had to shred the oem ones just to get them off but I'm keeping them to send to Ford. I'm forced to order Mcgard 64012 just to get my wheels back on---today, I hope.
Precisely why, as soon as I heard about all of the problems with our factory 'shelled' lug nuts I changed them out for some McGard 64015 black chrome acorn ones I had left over (but brand new in packages) from my Z28. ;)
 


Intuit

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#39
Service centers are notorious for over torquing lugs. I'd imagine that people with solid single-piece lugs have had issues as well.

It is unlikely that Ford manufactured these lugs in-house but instead, bought them in massive lots from a supplier or set of suppliers in massive pre-ordered, prepaid lots. Unfortunately it isn't unusual for suppliers to bait and switch. They provide an engineering sample that makes the grade, more than meets the specifications. But 30,000 widgets later when the customer stops paying much attention, quality slides and they for example, start substituting the 85 ft-lbs spec lugs.

Other events that occur are with Supply Chain Management, who start making decisions without fully engaging engineering resources. Well, these two widgets look the same, might even claim to have the same specs, but this widget is inexplicably 20% cheaper. Then there are the situations where a specific lot of product, manufactured within a specific time frame at a specific location are just flat out defective; for one or more technical and esoteric reason.

Especially with the ever and ever high part counts, end-to-end quality control is something that nearly all companies struggle with.
 




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