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Inexpensive Symposer Delete

CanadianGuy

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#21
I am assuming this voids warranty for the car because... well idk why but because.
Its should not considering the SoundSyposer is mainly a cosmetic feature but any delete options are easy to reverse. The only concern the dealership could have is is the now disconnected hose is dangling and damaging other areas of the engine. Another stealth way would be to shove a piece of cloth in the tube and reconnect the hose. The sound would be more muffled if not eliminated.
 


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westcoaST

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Thread Starter #22
Voiding the warranty is a common misconception. You would need to have a failure directly attributable to the removal of the sound symposer before any warrantied repairs would not be covered. Your warranty, however, would still be intact. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, passed by congress in 1975. It protects consumers. Here is a short SEMA article which reiterates your right to install after market parts.

https://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2011/01/ftc-validates-right-to-install-aftermarket-parts
 


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Hamilton
#23
Its should not considering the SoundSyposer is mainly a cosmetic feature but any delete options are easy to reverse. The only concern the dealership could have is is the now disconnected hose is dangling and damaging other areas of the engine. Another stealth way would be to shove a piece of cloth in the tube and reconnect the hose. The sound would be more muffled if not eliminated.
Voiding the warranty is a common misconception. You would need to have a failure directly attributable to the removal of the sound symposer before any warrantied repairs would not be covered. Your warranty, however, would still be intact. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, passed by congress in 1975. It protects consumers. Here is a short SEMA article which reiterates your right to install after market parts.

https://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2011/01/ftc-validates-right-to-install-aftermarket-parts
CanadianGuy. Good call on it being easy to reverse I guess I am still in the period of thinking every noise my car makes is the ttranny about to grenade itsself. I actually have a ford racing parts guy as a neighbour I should go talk to him about it.

westcoaST. Good info and thanks for the link. Wondering why there are warranty 'safe' parts from certain manufacturers though?

And on topic I think I will delete the whole unit in the near future the noise gets a bit annoying after awhile in the car.
 


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westcoaST

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Thread Starter #25
I don't think that is a good idea, especially when the battery starts to leak.
 


Siestarider

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Stuart
#27
Some of us would pay to delete the weight of a D cell.

Adding a gram of old inner tube is, however, an acceptable solution for those who do not want to delete the plumbing.

if I ever get my 3" MBRP quiet enough to suit me, I can pull the discs out and voila, symphony. Or get an E30 tune done properly and run a gauge.
 


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lancaster
#28
I think paper towels are about as cheap as it gets or u could just pick up some trash off the street and stuff it in the sound symposer air transfer box or tubes then you'll have the cheapest
 


PhoenixM3

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#29
I think paper towels are about as cheap as it gets or u could just pick up some trash off the street and stuff it in the sound symposer air transfer box or tubes then you'll have the cheapest
Fine. Tough crowd here. I honestly didn't want to wrestle with the stupid clamps, so I opted to leave the kazoo removed. I'll come up with a more elegant solution later, but I spun the car up to 140 today, so the temp solution holds....
 


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#30
So I picked up one of the 32mm Turbosmart plugs today, and plan on blocking off the symposer at #4 in the picture below:



My only concern is leaving the #1 hose unattached/unplugged. Since this is simply a channel into the cabin (correct?), is there any downside to leaving it unplugged? What diameter plug should I look for if I were to plug it?
 


Sam4

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#31
Fine. Tough crowd here. I honestly didn't want to wrestle with the stupid clamps, so I opted to leave the kazoo removed. I'll come up with a more elegant solution later, but I spun the car up to 140 today, so the temp solution holds....
I just finished with the 1-1 1/8 expansion plug from Pep Boys. Pull the box out of the grommet, then the hose, and ta-da! Easy access to the bottom clamp( which those bastards at FoMoCo glued in place). Pull the hose, install the plug, refit the hose, redo the clamp, attached the box - 15 minutes. Waiting until a bit later for a test ride, because I am going to reset the ECU with a neg battery wire disconnect.
 


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Rochester
#32
I just finished with the 1-1 1/8 expansion plug from Pep Boys. Pull the box out of the grommet, then the hose, and ta-da! Easy access to the bottom clamp( which those bastards at FoMoCo glued in place). Pull the hose, install the plug, refit the hose, redo the clamp, attached the box - 15 minutes. Waiting until a bit later for a test ride, because I am going to reset the ECU with a neg battery wire disconnect.
Getting the top clamp off was one of the most frustrating experiences of my life. I now have an entirely new-found appreciation for angled needle nose pliers.
 


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#33
So I picked up one of the 32mm Turbosmart plugs today, and plan on blocking off the symposer at #4 in the picture below:



My only concern is leaving the #1 hose unattached/unplugged. Since this is simply a channel into the cabin (correct?), is there any downside to leaving it unplugged? What diameter plug should I look for if I were to plug it?
Quoting for the picture... I just unplugged #1 today. It wasn't even clamped on, and that cant possible be an air tight solution that handles any boost/vac. I have it just sitting there now. Symposium is still all connected, but the sound tube part no longer sends drone into my cabin.
 


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Rochester
#34
Quoting for the picture... I just unplugged #1 today. It wasn't even clamped on, and that cant possible be an air tight solution that handles any boost/vac. I have it just sitting there now. Symposium is still all connected, but the sound tube part no longer sends drone into my cabin.
I thought about doing that as well, but didn't want the sound of the symposer bouncing around my engine bay. There is definitely no boost/vac on that side of the symposer, as everything is contained by the rubber diaphragm inside the symposer.
 


CanadianGuy

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#35
I thought about doing that as well, but didn't want the sound of the symposer bouncing around my engine bay. There is definitely no boost/vac on that side of the symposer, as everything is contained by the rubber diaphragm inside the symposer.
I removed the sound symposer and tie wraped the loose hose to another cable. In the future I will cut to hose at the firewall.

IMG-20151011-00323.jpg
 


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#37
I thought about doing that as well, but didn't want the sound of the symposer bouncing around my engine bay. There is definitely no boost/vac on that side of the symposer, as everything is contained by the rubber diaphragm inside the symposer.
The actual sound symposer box is mounted to the engine with some sort of bushing it looks like on my car. I'll probably zip tie the long hose that runs to the firewall to something. I like this idea better since its free lol.
 


DP03

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Owings
#38
So is there a reason why we can't just plug it at position #1? I am boosting higher than stock, but I can't see how it would leak if the symposer is plugged at #1? I either don't have the right tool or the right hands to get the clamps off at #2 or #4?
 


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Location
Rockaway Beach
#39
I've had the #1 part unplugged for a few thousand miles I guess. No issues. it wasn't even clamped on, per my older post. It just transmits the sound that the symposer makes to the cabin.

Pull it off, and save your self the time/money of buying a delete kit unless you want some extra 'bling'.
 


DP03

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#40
I actually found a set of long needle nose pliers, never used, with two of them being angled. Problem solved. Was able to access bottom clamp. I used the AutoZone plug and left everything looking stock.
 




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