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Inexpensive Symposer Delete

Messages
125
Likes
26
Location
Seattle
#41
DSC_15831.jpg

I did the $3 Dorman Freeze plug mod as well and it's working great. I put a plastic plug in the output line and electrical taped over top and zip tied the line in place. Best cheap mod ever.
 


Messages
18
Likes
1
Location
Saint Louis
#42
I purchased a Turbosmart 38mm BOV blanking plug (TS-0205-2017) from Amazon for $17.72. Here is what this plug looks like:



I got a hold of a Boomba Symposer delete plug so I could photograph them side by side. This is what they look like:


I think the OP meant the 32mm plug (TS-0205-2015), not the 38mm plug. Can anyone confirm? From BoostBumps build thread and other posts, it sounds like 1.25" plug is needed, so 32mm (1.25984").
 


Messages
87
Likes
31
Location
Rochester
#43
I think the OP meant the 32mm plug (TS-0205-2015), not the 38mm plug. Can anyone confirm? From BoostBumps build thread and other posts, it sounds like 1.25" plug is needed, so 32mm (1.25984").
Correct. I used a 32mm blanking plug.
 


Messages
387
Likes
59
Location
Fort Carson
#44
I used a PVC 3/4" pipe cap painted black, cost $1. Swapped the clamp for a worm-gear style hose clamp since the first plug blew out due to boost, that was $1.50 Removed the rest of the symposer and tubing back to where it hooks in behind the battery to clean everything up. At highway speeds, it whistled like crazy so I temporarily plugged it with a napkin. Later on got a water bottle cap that happened to fit perfectly (and I mean perfectly) on the remaining tubing.

Total cost, under $3 and works just as good as a manufactured kit, and looks decent enough.
 


Messages
28
Likes
7
Location
Benbrook
#45
Hello ST Friends,

I did the $3 Dorman Freeze plug symposer mod yesterday. Sort of easy. Took maybe an hour including the drilling of the end of the bolt on the Dorman plug (see later). I pulled the entire symposer unit with the plastic piping to the firewall elbow. Plan to pull the battery and plug the line into the firewall next. I drilled a hole in the nut of the Dorman plug so I could put a safety wire through it to prevent any possible loosening and nut ingestion in that pipe. Will put a worm clamp around the freeze plug as well.

Toughest part was the loosening clamp where the plug was later installed. Just very tight. Pop the symposer out of the bracket to make this easier (and get some long clamps from Harbor Freight. They look like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-long-reach-pliers-set-38598.html

Overall this fix removes a huge chunk of plastic "stuff" from the engine bay. I don't mind the missing 2000 - 3000 (or so) rpm drone. I like quiet old-guy exhaust systems. The sound is less fake to me. I figure it will change back somewhat if I ever get an aftermarket downpipe and CATback exhaust.

Cost was maybe $4 if you have safety wire already and the harbor freight pliers. Can be easily changed back, too.

Will post some photos later.

--Ernie
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,000
Likes
6,700
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#46
Are most people who do the $2.99 Dorman plug symposer delete option installing it into the HOSE coming off of the charge pipe with a clamp around the hose (to mimic what ALL of the aftermarket kits do), or are they installing it DIRECTLY into the charge pipe 'nipple' WITHOUT the hose attached to it (as I did)? [???:)]

Also, in the original post of this thread, westcoaST stated that the constant tension Murray/TurboSmart clamps are INCLUDED with the Mountune/Samco boost hose kit.
Is this (STILL) the case, or was/is westcoaST incorrect?
Are these the clamps one gets in the $25.00 Mountune boost hose CLAMP kit, or are those just plain old 'lined' worm gear clamps?? [dunno]
 


jmrtsus

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,521
Likes
1,155
Location
Ooltewah
#48
I used the 32mm BOV painted black and kept the stock hose, used plain SS worm drive clamp. Under $10.......I don't think it will die of old age before I do! I have a car over 30 years on factory hoses with no signs of age like cracks or brittle. A solid chunk of aluminium will not rust or shrink like I fear the "Dorman" will with time. See red arrow....


ScreenHunter_79 Jun. 20 19.11.jpg
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,000
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6,700
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#49
^^^I just installed my Damon OCC as well, but I covered the (standard black) hoses in black split loom convoluted covers in an attempt to 'fake out' the dealer service dept. 'techs' who do not see too many of these cars, in case I ever have to bring it in for warranty/TSB/recall work. [wink]

The yellow hoses DO look cool though. [thumb]

Does your valve cover hose make direct, pressured, contact with the edge of the engine cover??
 


jmrtsus

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,521
Likes
1,155
Location
Ooltewah
#50
^^^I just installed my Damon OCC as well, but I covered the (standard black) hoses in black split loom convoluted covers in an attempt to 'fake out' the dealer service dept. 'techs' who do not see too many of these cars, in case I ever have to bring it in for warranty/TSB/recall work. [wink]

The yellow hoses DO look cool though. [thumb]

Does your valve cover hose make direct, pressured, contact with the edge of the engine cover??
No,you can see the black cable tie holding it in position.

I love the yellow and now that I have returned the Mishi intake hose I will replace it with a Yellow Mountune, just not sure of what adapter I will use. Even my ST badges are yellow.....
 




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