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The Evolution of the Green Beast

DHM1

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Looks melted to me- melted shows "heat" cuz metal doesn't melt without heat.


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Of course that's melted it's a fractured pistons. It would not have melted if it didn't break first. That the point I'm making but you insist on trying to argue with your farfetched claims haha. Look at the other pistons I posted that actually melted because of heat. The melt goes pas where the top ring seal is. If this was a heat or tune issue the melting would have been past the first ring. There is NO heat or melting past the first ring lol


Smh mason. Get a life and stop going into people's build threads to make shit up and try and make me look bad haha I'll let others look from here.


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masonsturbos

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You see it one way, I see it melting first and then cracking... I don't think it would bend that oil ring unless it was an explosion.
Sorry Russell, I'm just calling you out because others can not see it. This is fresh schooling information compared to your word. You can make it sound like it wasn't your fault, and it may not have, but still, how many pistons crack do you know of? It melted first cuz we all know that is a common problem, the cracking occurred after melting


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DHM1

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You see it one way, I see it melting first and then cracking... I don't think it would bend that oil ring unless it was an explosion.
Sorry Russell, I'm just calling you out because others can not see it. This is fresh schooling information compared to your word. You can make it sound like it wasn't your fault, and it may not have, but still, how many pistons crack do you know of? It melted first cuz we all know that is a common problem, the cracking occurred after melting


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Cracked skirts on oem pistons happen often. This is why it clearly shows your lack of experience. I worked for OEM doing new energize development. Ran single cylinder engine for piston durability 1000's of piston swaps also worked for piston manufacturer for a period of time. I have been doing serious in depth engine building and development for over 13years. "Explosions" are catastrophic failures. This is a piston flaw. How would a melt cause a piston to perfectly crack along the structural line of the major thrust side. A piston melt cause ring seal lose which causes more melting like shown in my original post.




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Hijinx

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I remember when I was 19, in college, & full of piss and vinegar
Take one course, and suddenly you're the subject matter expert.

Edit - Sorry this is the first comment I've made in your thread [MENTION=1650]Pete[/MENTION]. For the record, I love what you've done so far, and I'm looking forward to everything being completed.

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DHM1

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Do you have any real world experience with these engines and failures of these engines or is this all based on classroom learning? I'm not saying you aren't educated on the subject, it's just that there is a world of difference between what the book says, and what happens in the real world.
Never lol! Don't you see why he is saying. The piston got hot enough to melt the thickest part of the ring land only but only hot enough that it didn't melt anything past the first ring. Then that heat changed form into a explosive force that fractured the piston perfectly while still never melting anything besides the thick part of the ring land leaving the bearings, cylinder wall, spark plug and everything else untouched from the heat and explosions




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grnmachine02

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Yeah, if there was enough detonation to melt or break a piston, it would have hammered the bejesus out of the bearing. I saw that on my other car when at 30psi it had almost 20 degrees of timing thanks to a fat fingered mistake on my part in tuner studio...


Edit:// that actually didn't even break the piston, it just hammered both the bearing and rod into a nice oval shape lol.

Double edit:// sorry for helping to clutter up the thread, Pete.
 


M-Sport fan

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On another note for those not following my instagram, Tshirt Driving, I am in the process of my LSD and final drive.

@Mason instead of spending my time looking to attack someone constantly, myself and other members and venders are doing work, being the pioneers, and breaking things, and pushing the limits so others can then think about the upgrade path they will take. I will say I have probably tracked my Fiesta close to if not the most on road courses. Granted I haven't posted every time I have gone but road racing puts high stress on all components of a car. Anyways I am going to get back to work.

...and THANK YOU x a million Pete, for that!!! [twothumb]

PLEASE let us know just how that Wavetrac performs with your newfound power, launching off of the apexes, both with, and without full-on, less than 100 tread wear, R compound slicks (IF you will ever open track it on the harder, 200 tread wear rubber). [wink]
 


masonsturbos

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its more than once incident russell, Melt the top land which looks like it was ran a while with the deposits on it. then it doesnt take much for a pocket of fuel to get down there and ignite causing the cracking down there. you even said it yourself. "How would a melt cause a piston to perfectly crack along the structural line of the major thrust side. A piston melt cause ring seal lose which causes more melting like shown in my original post." exactly that- you allow heat and combustion to happen in that fresh chamber thats not meant for it, its gunna cause stress fractures.
not every melted ringland blows the entire side of the piston away...
 


OP
Pete

Pete

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Thread Starter #210
[MENTION=1579]masonsturbos[/MENTION] please stop repeating yourself. Take this out of my build thread as you are cluttering up good information. Make a separate thread if you like or discussion in the engine failure thread. Thank you.
 


DHM1

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its more than once incident russell, Melt the top land which looks like it was ran a while with the deposits on it. then it doesnt take much for a pocket of fuel to get down there and ignite causing the cracking down there. you even said it yourself. "How would a melt cause a piston to perfectly crack along the structural line of the major thrust side. A piston melt cause ring seal lose which causes more melting like shown in my original post." exactly that- you allow heat and combustion to happen in that fresh chamber thats not meant for it, its gunna cause stress fractures.
not every melted ringland blows the entire side of the piston away...
Piston got hot enough to melt in the thickest part of the land but NO where else and then cause a crack along the thrust side of the skirt.

Or

Piston crack along the trust side and melted at the exact center of the crack where a piece of piston broke off and then started to melt. Hence why the melted area is black because it has carbon deposits. Not extreme temperature signs. Extreme temps will not leave carbon deposits on the melted surface.

Your right pistons can just melt a ring land but they don't do it in the thickest part. The melt in a weak or thin spot.

Also alum doesn't melt because the burn air fuel mix doesn't reach it max temp until it expands and travels. Hence why egt's are higher in the header/collector/runner than in at the exhaust valve or in the chamber

For a piston not melt the burned air fuel mix need to travel this when temps get hot enough to melt a piston it goes past the rings because it found a path to travel hence the "torch" affect.

Take a cutting torch for example it can not cut metal until it has a path to travel and exit.

These are simple things for someone with experience and education to understand.



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OP
Pete

Pete

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Back to the transmission. Everything is bagged up and put on hold until Monday. I am going to a transmission shop to have the gears pressed apart (I'm not sure how transmissions shops do this but I will be learning) to swap in the final drive ratio. The ring gear that bolts to the LSD is the easy part. But there are two other gears/shafts that need to be installed and that is out of my experience level.
 


OP
Pete

Pete

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I think I'm gonna make some tubular spherical bearing control arms. They will be adjustable for caster and camber.

Russ


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Please do! And a better ball joint to lower the car without ruining the geometry of the suspension :)
[MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION] I will be doing a couple reviews once the car is together. My first impressions, long term, track, and canyon review. There is so much being changed to the car, I may have to drive a stock ST first.
 


LilPartyBox

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I'm interested in ur impression as well. The last time I did poly in my CAs I loved the turn in but despised the harshness on the street.

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OP
Pete

Pete

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Thread Starter #218
I'm interested in ur impression as well. The last time I did poly in my CAs I loved the turn in but despised the harshness on the street.

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That's why I went with the street bushings. The only one I got the race version for was the sway bar bushings as I've gone back to the oem sway bar from the larger eibach one.
 


M-Sport fan

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Also last week I got to install these bad boys.

These do not induce bind in our front suspensions at all? (I am asking seriously, and for knowledge's sake, NOT in a derisive, or questioning your judgement way AT ALL, since I have NO experience whatsoever with this particular car's suspension as far as handling goes ;) ).

I only ask because poly was a TOTAL [nono] in most of the suspension bushings on my last car (especially the front and rear lower control arms), for optimal turning left and right's sake, due to the bind they naturally have.
They were considered GREAT for the drag racers, but going backwards for the road race/a-x people.
 




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