Broke something...its not pretty...

[doubletap]

I think it's the RMM.

 

[BryanD]

I see you are over in concord. I am near northlake mall. What dealer do you go to/where did you get your FiSt? I have been using Huntersville Ford, they are pretty good up there.

I bought mine from Hilbish in Kannapolis. I don't really have any words to say, good or bad, towards their service department as I'm at tech for Chrysler here in Concord so I prefer to do anything non-warranty related myself. Your best option is have the dealer take a look at it! I doubt they will consider it your fault, and if they do, attempt different dealers. Best of luck! We should meet up sometime since we're local. I live right next to the speedway.

 

[kevinatfms]

FYI with the dual mass flywheel our clutch disks have NO springs they are solid

The springs are in the flywheel with a DMF. If one is still broken it could result in harmonic issues that the OP is describing. I do know that DMF's are prone to vibration and NVH issues due to the design and high failure rate. As far as the FiST's DMF, I have no clue. Anyone had one out and apart yet?

I still think its the diff spider gears. Switching back and forth through the spider gears with abrupt stops can make them eat themselves pretty easy. It would be an easier and cheaper fix than the DMF.

 

[rodmoe]

The springs are in the flywheel with a DMF. If one is still broken it could result in harmonic issues that the OP is describing. I do know that DMF's are prone to vibration and NVH issues due to the design and high failure rate. As far as the FiST's DMF, I have no clue. Anyone had one out and apart yet?

I still think its the diff spider gears. Switching back and forth through the spider gears with abrupt stops can make them eat themselves pretty easy. It would be an easier and cheaper fix than the DMF.

Yes those are pics of my flywheel and clutch/presure plate a few posts back when I upgraded to a Spec flywheel and sprung clutch disk and PP.And yes the springs in the flywheel can fail though I have not heard of anyone seeing that yet. Also the spider gears are pretty beafy looking for a Stock FiST

 

[boombots]

I win lol. As I thought. Broken motor mount. Top passenger side mount. Sheered the bolt.

 

[boombots]

I mean there could be more than one issue but that motor is just chilling in there. I can move it all around.

 

[Sekred]

I win lol. As I thought. Broken motor mount. Top passenger side mount. Sheered the bolt.

Your not the first person to break this bolt, something to keep a eye on.

 

[Olephart]

So, looking at your profile, you have Cobb Stage 1. I wonder if the extra stiffness of the Cobb RMM forces this mount to break (weakest point?) when you put your foot down hard after the car has got this sort of mileage on it and the rubber has softened up a bit?

 

[Etyrnus]

Or maybe no RMM replacement to restrain the engine movement.

 

[rodmoe]

Well good news then it should be a easy Fix ..

 

[boombots]

So, looking at your profile, you have Cobb Stage 1. I wonder if the extra stiffness of the Cobb RMM forces this mount to break (weakest point?) when you put your foot down hard after the car has got this sort of mileage on it and the rubber has softened up a bit?

Well stage 1 tune, not the RMM... Yet. But you bring up a good point...

 

[JPGC]

Has anyone sheared this bolt or broken this mount with an aftermarket RMM....

 

[doubletap]

If anything this really reinforces the need for an upgraded RMM. That stock one certainly didn't help prevent this. I mean the engine shifted so far as to shear the mounting bolt off. I've also seen the stock RMM snap.

 

[Sourskittle]

Those are my pics. I sheared that bolt at the track on the stock RMM. I replaced it with a grade 8 bolt ( I think ).

That entire mount comes out really easy. I fixed it myself (knowing my local dealerships would blame an upgraded shift knob if something like a motor mount was broken).

I believe its an M12,

Do everyone a favor and measure it's specs in every way and post the specs in a new thread for everyone's benefit later.

Now.... This is very important. That bolt is what caused my passenger side CV axle boot to rip/break. The cv joint stayed together fine, but the boot needs to be inspected hardcore. If the boot or CV axle break LATER as mine did, your dealership will tell you "we can't cover it under the warranty, but we don't mind replacing it for $430 to help you out". Or in my case, "we know the axle is on back order and we don't want to provide you with a rental, so if you bring us the axle, we'll do it for $87 an hour in labor".

In my case, i ordered a motorcraft axle from rockauto, paided $50 extra to get it tomme asap, and it was the easist axle I've ever installed. Took less than an hour on a concert driveway. I feel its very unfortunate that ford tech want to "pick and choose" stuff like this, but no less, the point is..... Make sure you tell the service manger to have the techs check the cv axle boots for the smallest tears that can develop into full on broken boots over time. It may save you $200 for the axle and a little of your time in the future.

Not sure where techs were taught to be so afraid of CV axles, but they treat axles like they are as hard to replace as a rear main seal on an engine or something.

The stock bolt is a grade 5 hardness I think.

Also maybe someone can post the torque spec on it because mine backed out like 3 times after replacing it. I didn't want to put lock-tight on it incase I broke another one.

 

[Sourskittle]

Another note. When I upgraded the RMM, I haven't broken the bolt since. Of course... I put a stronger bolt in its place though...

I also drove 80 miles home that night with a 65mph speed limit. Mine actually popped the head off the top of the bolt.

 

[Olephart]

Well stage 1 tune, not the RMM... Yet. But you bring up a good point...

So that blows my theory. Either an inherent problem with motor mounts, or the owner before you did a lot of time at the strip.

 

[iso100]

My vote is crunched gears due to a miss shift.

 

[boombots]

I'll check the CV axles. I actually had it towed the 4 miles to the dealer as I was worried about the axles. I'm probably ok, I only drove it a mile and most of it was under 20mph.

 

[Sourskittle]

Boot boot broke AT THE TRACK, not on the way home. I drove it for 4 months or so before the axle broke. But being as you were on the street, your prob fine. Just wanted to make sure you checked it. Dealers are weaseling out of everything they can to keep from having to work on these cars. Like not fixing my axle because i have an intercooler lmao. Don't install fuzzy dice on your mirror or they may not want to fix your brakes if they go out, lol.

 

[boombots]

Ok, dealer has the car. As of now they can't get access to the mount/bolt. National back order. He said I can buy an aftermarket mount and they could install it as an option. Don't want an aftermarket upper mount. They transfer a ton of vibration...

Next option is find the bolt elsewhere... Just need the specs. Any idea how I can find the part # or size specs? Looking at a diagram the bolt I need wasn't listed assuming i was looking at it right. Need help looking. If you have anything let me know...