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What to monitor?

dyn085

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#2
Generally speaking, it's a bit of whatever. Here is what I would start with and why-

1. OAR Learned- You probably won't have this up long, but you should put it up initially to ensure you hit -1 (meaning you have good enough fuel for the tune). If it doesn't hit -1 somewhat quickly, either swap to a lower octane tune or start using a different fuel station. If it hits -1 quickly then swap it for something else unless you use multiple gas stations.
2. Boost- This will show you if you have a boost leak and if you're hitting near your boost targets.
3-6. Ignition Corrections on all four cylinders- It's a bit redundant initially, but after driving it around for a few weeks with all four up you should have a good idea of how your car is responding to the tune/fuel and if you have a weaker cylinder it will help show which one it is. After a few weeks (or however long it takes you to feel comfortable with how your engine is responding), drop three of the monitors and just leave your 'weak' cylinder up and swap in whatever suits your fancy.

Other notable monitors-
AFR- People like to feel good knowing they are hitting acceptable fuel targets.
Oil Temperature- It's inferred, but someone much smarter than us came up with the algorithm. It lets you know when your oil is warmed up and is ok for going full-boost.
Coolant Temperature- Not necessarily for daily driving, but if you do some spirited driving or auto-x it will be good to know if you're getting hot.
 


pelotonracer2

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NRH
#5
Typically when I was on stage 1 tune, I would monitor six parameters. IATs, CAT's, Ambient temps, coolant temps (to compare all four), boost psi and estimated torque. This was on an "established" tune I had been using for 18+ months. When starting a new tune (like my stage 3 e-tune for instance) I added ignition advance cyl #1 and OAR. If the AP V3 had a bigger screen I'd monitor some of the others as well, but alas it is pretty small. [:)]
 


Messages
259
Likes
59
Location
SoCal
#6
Speed (our speedo has tiny tiny tick marks), Current Gear (Glance at it to make sure I'm in 6th on hwy), Oil temp, Coolant temp, Boost, and RPM.
 


LilPartyBox

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Location
NYC
#8
Great question. I just installed my AP. Literally sitting in the car right now setting up monitors. I see the following for exhaust.

Exh FEGO temp
Exh Flange temp (really?)
Exh BP
Exhaust MAP

Don't have a clue which one is EGT buy I also would like to know. EGTs are how tunes were built back in the day. Strange how no one really talks about them anymore.
 


M-Sport fan

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Location
Princeton, N.J.
#9
Great question. I just installed my AP. Literally sitting in the car right now setting up monitors. I see the following for exhaust.

Exh FEGO temp
Exh Flange temp (really?)
Exh BP
Exhaust MAP

Don't have a clue which one is EGT buy I also would like to know. EGTs are how tunes were built back in the day. Strange how no one really talks about them anymore.

HOW does it calculate exhaust back pressure?? [dunno]
 


Messages
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Location
San Diego
#10
Glad this thread came back up as I just got my mount for my AP and am trying to choose gauges. This post here is awesome! One question - I have "Boost Pressure" I think set for one of the gauges now. What types of values should I be looking for, and how do I tell from the gauge if there is any boost leak?

Generally speaking, it's a bit of whatever. Here is what I would start with and why-

1. OAR Learned- You probably won't have this up long, but you should put it up initially to ensure you hit -1 (meaning you have good enough fuel for the tune). If it doesn't hit -1 somewhat quickly, either swap to a lower octane tune or start using a different fuel station. If it hits -1 quickly then swap it for something else unless you use multiple gas stations.
2. Boost- This will show you if you have a boost leak and if you're hitting near your boost targets.
3-6. Ignition Corrections on all four cylinders- It's a bit redundant initially, but after driving it around for a few weeks with all four up you should have a good idea of how your car is responding to the tune/fuel and if you have a weaker cylinder it will help show which one it is. After a few weeks (or however long it takes you to feel comfortable with how your engine is responding), drop three of the monitors and just leave your 'weak' cylinder up and swap in whatever suits your fancy.

Other notable monitors-
AFR- People like to feel good knowing they are hitting acceptable fuel targets.
Oil Temperature- It's inferred, but someone much smarter than us came up with the algorithm. It lets you know when your oil is warmed up and is ok for going full-boost.
Coolant Temperature- Not necessarily for daily driving, but if you do some spirited driving or auto-x it will be good to know if you're getting hot.
 


Messages
246
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56
Location
Honolulu
#11
dyn085 can correct me if I am wrong on this. Since the AP gets info from OBD port, the way to tell if you have a leak is that your boost pressure will go higher than the expected target for your tune. It may not show a lower value since the ECU is trying to achieve a certain TQ value, thus a leak would cause the ECU to increase boost to achieve the desired TQ value of the tune. This was what happened with my GTI when I was running the Revo Tune. Turned out I had a loose I/C piping.

Glad this thread came back up as I just got my mount for my AP and am trying to choose gauges. This post here is awesome! One question - I have "Boost Pressure" I think set for one of the gauges now. What types of values should I be looking for, and how do I tell from the gauge if there is any boost leak?
 


Messages
56
Likes
8
Location
San Diego
#12
dyn085 can correct me if I am wrong on this. Since the AP gets info from OBD port, the way to tell if you have a leak is that your boost pressure will go higher than the expected target for your tune. It may not show a lower value since the ECU is trying to achieve a certain TQ value, thus a leak would cause the ECU to increase boost to achieve the desired TQ value of the tune. This was what happened with my GTI when I was running the Revo Tune. Turned out I had a loose I/C piping.
Thanks for the info. I keep watching the boost pressure and I will start doing some logging maybe over the weekend to see if I am hitting the right numbers. This is the first turbo-charged car I've done any work or mods to - so a new and fun experience for me. Grateful to all the folks here sharing knowledge.
 


Sourskittle

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Lakeland
#13
HOW does it calculate exhaust back pressure?? [dunno]
It's "inferred" meaning it's the ECU's best guess based off other real actual known inputs like boost and timing etc.

The ECU does not ACTUALLY know for sure. If you change anything in or on the turbo side of things, it's going to change radically (or slightly depending on what you do ).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


M-Sport fan

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Princeton, N.J.
#14
It's "inferred" meaning it's the ECU's best guess based off other real actual known inputs like boost and timing etc.

The ECU does not ACTUALLY know for sure. If you change anything in or on the turbo side of things, it's going to change radically (or slightly depending on what you do ).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK

But I was asking how (and yes, wondering how) the AP calculates the back pressure, as I never thought that it would be done by the ECU, or ever be reportable from it, even by inference or algorithmic methods.

Is the inferred back pressure at the head's exhaust ports, turbo's exhaust outlet, or after the downpipe??

I just wish that the real, actual oil temps (from an actual SENSOR) were a reported PID in these cars, from the factory, and without us having to do the whole sandwich plate for a sensor, and wiring/gauge thing. :(
 


Messages
367
Likes
46
Location
Huntington Beach
#15
I can't wait to get this thing, I just hope I don't tinker with it too much, besides whats in this thread anyone else have any other suggestions?
 




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