Squeaky clutch

[westcoaST]

I've had a squeaky clutch for quite some time now (I have almost 26K miles), for at least 10K miles now, but always thought it was the clutch pedal. I applied dry film lube to the plastic collar that holds the spring, and on the pedal assembly brackets, but this did not fix the problem. Last Saturday, I went to my dealer and did my 25K service. Since I had already changed the oil and filter, and the air filter was cleaned (its a reusable K&N filter), they checked the brake pads (I still have 5mm left), and went after the chassis squeaks and the clutch squeak. The service manager told me that the clutch slave cylinder needed replacement, and that they would have a replacement by Wednesday (today). I tried a little test when I got home. With the engine running, trans in neutral, when I pressed the clutch pedal, it squeaks. With the engine off, no squeaks. It used to squeak all the time. I think I got rid of some of the noise with the dry film lube, but this uncovered the engine on squeak. I was told the trans needs to come out, so Ford will need a few days to fix it. It will be interesting to see if the squeak goes away with this fix. This dealer has great service. Even though it's farther than two other dealers, it is the only one I'll go to.

 

[airjor13]

Get some heavy duty all purpose lube, get some gloves and really get in and rub the lube all over the clutch box area, I know it should so stupid as a way to fix this issue but it works really well

 

[Chris G]

I'll be curious to hear what the squeaks are. Impressive service though considering your mods and what not.

 

[westcoaST]

This is a great dealer, but several miles further than two others. I stay with them because they were the only dealer willing to go to San Diego (100+ miles from me) and pick up my car from another dealer on a flat bed and transport it up to Fontana. I used to freak out and pull my catch can off when I went for service, but now I don't even do that. I have the 100K extended service and parts, so even my brake pads are free, as well as the turbo, clutch, and most other wear parts, except tires.

 

[2006ser]

I couldn't even get a free oil change out of my dealer lol

 

[Joe Schmoe]

Assuming you're talking about Sunrise - yeah, they are pretty good. They rebuilt my auto trans on a Focus under extended warranty but they couldn't solve a vibration I had - they wouldn't guarantee their proposed solution would even fix the problem after a couple failed attempts, but I've had worse. Worse would be Citrus Ford - do NOT go there for either sales or service. I might buy a car from them, but you couldn't PAY me to have service done there.

Sorry to go all off topic, but I took this picture of one of their seats in Sunrise's waiting room. Yes, that's real. I put the smudge in it.

 

[westcoaST]

Yeah Sunrise. Taking the car over tomorrow for the clutch master cylinder. 3 hours of videos to watch.

 

[Fortz]

Give us some news if the cylinder change fixed the squeaks. My clutch is squeaky too...

 

[westcoaST]

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder worked to eliminate most of the squeaks, but I still have a squeak that I believe is coming out of the Cobb RMM. I had no squeaks from the dealership until about 25 miles of stop and go freeway traffic, which tends to rock the engine on the RMM. This squeak happens when i press the accelerator pedal, or let off. The dealer fixed all of my other squeaks. I'll try little white lithium grease inside of the RMM to see if that helps. The dealer had to remove the trans. So that means I may need to drain and replace the trans fluid. I'll need to check with my service rep. I got no hassles for any of my stage 3 stuff. Even the DHM crash bar and IC. Or all the Pierce Motorsport braces.

 

[westcoaST]

So I went and pulled the Cobb RMM to lubricate it thiss morning, and wouldn't you know it, I ended up snapping the bolt that connects between the steel mounting bracket, through the smaller end of the Cobb RMM, and the aluminum transmission mounting boss. This bolt is am M13 head with an M10 x 1.5 threaded end. It appears that the Dealer mechanic did not run a die or tap on this boss and bolt. They were pretty clogged up with metal bits and old locktite.

To remove the stuck fastener end of the bolt, I ended up having to drill a small hole in the center of the stuck bolt. This was flush with the boss, and looked impossible to get out.

I recently purchased some left handed drills. Once I had a small hole drilled, (and had broken 2 drills), I switched over to the left hand drill, and the broken bolt just spun right out. I cleaned up the aluminum boss threaded hole with a M10 x 1.5 tap and some tapping oil. I purchased both long bolts from quirkparts.com for $8.00 including shipping. I figured it was prudent to replace both bolts, so I didn't run into this same problem again.

Did the dealer mechanic do anything wrong? It depends on whether or not he was instructed to make sure the aluminum tapped holes are clean without metal clogging the thread form. I will ask the dealer some questions on Tuesday. Do I believe that the bolt would eventually have broken? Yes I do, based on the fracture face of the bolt. Better to have this bolt break in my garage that on the road. Unfortunately, its going to take 4 - 5 days to get replacement bolts.

 

[CanadianGuy]

So I went and pulled the Cobb RMM to lubricate it thiss morning, and wouldn't you know it, I ended up snapping the bolt that connects between the steel mounting bracket, through the smaller end of the Cobb RMM, and the aluminum transmission mounting boss. This bolt is am M13 head with an M10 x 1.5 threaded end. It appears that the Dealer mechanic did not run a die or tap on this boss and bolt. They were pretty clogged up with metal bits and old locktite.

Did I get this correct you broke it trying to take it off? Hmm. Interesting that it snapped flush. The aluminum thread is not damaged? Like you that is why I have all sorts of aggressive bolt and nut removers. Over the years they have paid for them selves many time over.

 

[westcoaST]

I believe that the Ford tech reinstalled the bolt slightly angled and didn't clean it, because it would not budge and snapped off when I tried to remove it. I have a die and tap set and a set of left hand drills, as well as good quality easy outs. These bolts are Ford parts, so you gotta order them. With a left hand drill, some propane, you don't have to drill as deep a starter hole, in order to back the threaded part of the bolt out. Love my tools.

 

[FordServiceCA]

.... My clutch is squeaky ...

Let's rescue your Fiesta, Fortz. I suggest taking the vehicle to your local dealer for diagnosis. Also, PM the odometer reading, VIN, phone number, registered name on the vehicle, and dealer info ; I'll get your regional customer service manager to help.

Kwasi

 

[westcoaST]

I finally got my ST back together. The Ford bolts have been on national back order. So while I'm waiting, I picked up some M10 x 1.5 x 90mm and an M10 x 1.5 x 120 mm from Bolt Depot. I had to add shims on the longer bolt for correct fitment. The OEM bolts should be here by next week. My car was out of commission for a week.

 

[FordServiceCA]

...My clutch is squeaky too...

Your concern has been escalated, Fortz. Please check your inbox for more updates. Have a great weekend.

Kwasi

 

[M-Sport fan]

Sorry for digging up this fossil, as I know there is a more recent thread on this topic, but I cannot find it.

I have the dreaded clutch pedal squeak, and so far, it is the ONLY single 'problem' I've had with this car in 5K miles/10 months of ownership.

I have gone under the dash and silicone/Super Lube greased the daylights out of EVERY clutch pivot point, return spring, bushing, etc. I could see/find, and it STILL does this when the outside ambient temps are above ~70*F (and therefore the interior temps inside a closed car with direct sunlight on it, are much higher).

Did I somehow miss the ONE pivot point/joint/bushing which is causing the noise, or was it finally found to be the INTERNAL seals/diaphram inside the master cylinder which are causing the squeak when the temps rise to a given point?

Thanks in advance.

Dave H.

 

[Turbo65]

Sub'd I'm in the same boat only does it when it's hot. Mine stops after about 30 mins with the a/c set at 72 so I believe it's in the pedal or pivot points somewhere. It groans and creaks

 

[Plainrt]

Tagging along as it's one thing hate about my car. Ford did great on this pedal design lol

 

[BRGT350]

I hit every moving piece I could find under the dash for the clutch with lubricant and it completely stopped.

 

[zanethan]

Maybe try a different lubricant. I used Fluid Film on the squeaky clutch pedal on my previous car ('12 Buick Regal GS) and it cleared it right up. The car started to fall apart but the clutch never squeaked again haha.