Note: I probably need to edit this a bit more, had to walk the dogs, calls, messages, etc....but most should be right on.
I have another 25.4mm, + 2.3mm on the other side of the wheel but had to use 2mm spacers to clear the struts with the race tires so I have a net of 25.7mm more wheel width inside which reduces the offset issue a great deal. I wish it was a better but it is the best that is available for my needs and would give up a bit of grip by running 8" wheels in a +40 or whatever is best offset but none are available I would prefer to use.
I also do not daily drive the car, still only 5k miles, bought in April 2014, and do extensive inspections and maintenance regularly. I know my car will wear out faster than most as I put miles on it as I drive it very hard on track, more so on the street than most cars I have built and I have harder suspension bushings, monoball uppers on the front coilovers, love to jump the curbs and get a bit of air under two or more tires if that gets me around the corner faster.
For those less nuts than I am about all out handling, braking, and acceleration on a road course and still have a very streetable car and even use the warranty if needed, may or may not have the budget, time, experience, etc...to carefully maintain the car...it is best to go with standard engineering practice and set it up for real world use, especially if you have crappy roads to deal with.
For those more interested in how the car looks than how it performs, same deal, reduce the handling, most likely the ride while at it, accept the added wear and tear....I am OK with it, I just want to help it be understood what is really happening when such mods are done.
Stock suspension, we all know it is pretty harsh, that transfers more energy into the chassis thus more wear and even effects the tires and wheels if they cannot move freely enough to deflect some of the energy. I have BC race spec coilovers and they are doing a great job, best I could get at the time, will change if something truly better comes out. With those, all the bushings changed, monoball uppers, tires and wheels mentioned, my car rides far better than stock yet will corner far faster than I would want to test it on public roads.
All that typed out just to say the stock suspension takes a lot of energy and places it on all associated parts, add "poked" wheels with less than perfect offsets and it multiplies the effect.
I have another 25.4mm, + 2.3mm on the other side of the wheel but had to use 2mm spacers to clear the struts with the race tires so I have a net of 25.7mm more wheel width inside which reduces the offset issue a great deal. I wish it was a better but it is the best that is available for my needs and would give up a bit of grip by running 8" wheels in a +40 or whatever is best offset but none are available I would prefer to use.
I also do not daily drive the car, still only 5k miles, bought in April 2014, and do extensive inspections and maintenance regularly. I know my car will wear out faster than most as I put miles on it as I drive it very hard on track, more so on the street than most cars I have built and I have harder suspension bushings, monoball uppers on the front coilovers, love to jump the curbs and get a bit of air under two or more tires if that gets me around the corner faster.
For those less nuts than I am about all out handling, braking, and acceleration on a road course and still have a very streetable car and even use the warranty if needed, may or may not have the budget, time, experience, etc...to carefully maintain the car...it is best to go with standard engineering practice and set it up for real world use, especially if you have crappy roads to deal with.
For those more interested in how the car looks than how it performs, same deal, reduce the handling, most likely the ride while at it, accept the added wear and tear....I am OK with it, I just want to help it be understood what is really happening when such mods are done.
Stock suspension, we all know it is pretty harsh, that transfers more energy into the chassis thus more wear and even effects the tires and wheels if they cannot move freely enough to deflect some of the energy. I have BC race spec coilovers and they are doing a great job, best I could get at the time, will change if something truly better comes out. With those, all the bushings changed, monoball uppers, tires and wheels mentioned, my car rides far better than stock yet will corner far faster than I would want to test it on public roads.
All that typed out just to say the stock suspension takes a lot of energy and places it on all associated parts, add "poked" wheels with less than perfect offsets and it multiplies the effect.