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Thoughts on proposed audio system

JBO

Member
Messages
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12
Location
Adelaide
#1
Hi all…thinking of the following in my Aussie 3 door ST. Any thoughts and advice welcome.

Amp
Pioneer D9604 - ($327) Pioneer GM-D9604 4 channel Class FD Amplifier - GMD9604

Speakers
Budget option - Polk MM6501 - ($329) Polk Audio MM6501 6.5inch Component Speakers - MM6501
Non budget option!!! - Rainbow Germanium 6.5 - RAINBOW GL-C6.2

Bass
Budget option - two of these in the rear stock locations on each side of the rear seats - Kicker 6.75in Comp RT2 - 6.75" CompRT Subwoofer - 2 Ohm | KICKER®
OR
One of these under the passenger seat - Kicker HS8 - Kicker HS8 8" Ultra-Compact Powered Subwoofer - Subwoofers - Car Audio

So regardless of which front splits I get, the setup would be

OPTION A
run the two kicker 6.5in subs in the rear side panels using two of the channels from the amp which will provide around 100 to 130 watts per side RMS
run the front splits off the other two channels 100 to 130w per side

OPTION B
run the self powered HS8 under the seat.
Bridge the amp to 2 x 300 and run the front speakers off that
Down the track I could get a processor so I can run the front stage active but this is just more expense.
 


Messages
228
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49
Location
Woods
#3
I think more people bought the car for its handling/performance feel due to its light weight...people are spending their $$ trying to go lighter and faster.
 


Messages
347
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67
Location
El Paso
#4
wow….88 views and no comments...[B)]
Yeah, it happens sometimes. But I'm an audiofile so...

I've done the two kicker 6.5 in my supercrew F150, 2 ohm mono load using a five channel Alpine, one set of separates on the front doors and coax on rear doors. The two subs were put in the jack storage box that is built in the truck (I just put the jack stuff in tool box in bed of truck). I did it this way because I like to feel bass more than hear it (extra pressure to the ears; it's a "years of being a Soldier" thing that I can't do anymore). I loved how it sounded, clean and loud, even with the factory unit. I'd go with option A
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
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Location
Carson City
#6
Parts Express Dayton Esoteric Mids ( I have used Rainbow References, damn incredible, insane price)
Vifa(new name now is Tympany) 3/4 tweeters in the A pillars firing directly at each other, 1" above the highest point on the dash(stock location is retarded) Make sure to wire them out of phase to improve the time alignment(neg to pos, pos to neg).
2.1 processor, I am soon testing the low cost PPI RPM88, I had the Arc PS8 but did not install it, far more than needed, have had most high end units....
Real sub in the rear, flip the spare or get an aluminum rim compact one, do a bit of work, be happy, a good single 10 will do more than those other options and can be taken out easily if you compete in autocross, etc.
No rear speakers, glad you understand that:)
The little subs are OK at best but you have to deaden the hell out of the doors which adds cost and weight and still not optimal and the tiny underseat sub is pretty weak at best.
5 or 6 channel amp (I never liked D class so the lowest I would go is H class but the Arc XDI II amps I have, 5 or 6 of them, are pretty impressive:)

Sound deadening done right, PM for link if you want to know how.

I have helped tens of thousands figure out sound deadenint and hundreds figure out the best system, several won World Championships in Sound Quality with my little bit of help, really.

(Edit, I have not even tested the mids or tweeters I am recommending but those that know that I trust convinced me I do not have to and I get them wholesale which makes the deal even sweeter:)

Rick
 


Messages
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37
Location
Columbus, Ohio
#7
RAAMaudio,

I was wondering if there was some sort of cross-over from the factory head unit that feed the tweeters in the front door. I see people using component speakers with a separate cross-over, but wasn't sure with the 6.5 mids were getting the whole signal from the factory head unit. I like the Esoteric Mids, but could the factory HU drive an 85.2 dB 2.83V speaker at similar levels or would you need a stand alone amp? Wish I knew the specs of the stock speakers.
 


RAAMaudio

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Carson City
#8
The biggest issue with the stock HU is the tune it comes with designed to "make the best" out of poor tweeter locations and quality of speakers and likely tuned by somebody that does not really understand tuning a car system properly:(

Built in tunes are seldom our friend when doing speaker upgrades, why I either swap the HU or if not possible add a processor.

I did not take into consideration using the stock HU to drive the Esoteric mids, they are not very efficient and 8 ohms(ohm rating far less important than it seems) and I do not know the stock speaker specs to compare them.

I have not done the install in my car yet, spent to many hours, hundreds, on performance instead so not able to give any feedback on using those mids.

I an going to make sure to note in my first post to wire the tweeters out of phase with the mids when installed in teh pillars, almost always a big improvement in stage height, width and even depth as it is a poor mans way to time align them closer to optimal.
 


OP
J

JBO

Member
Messages
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12
Location
Adelaide
Thread Starter #10
thanks guys….still researching but this info helps. Keep it coming!
 


Messages
120
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37
Location
Columbus, Ohio
#11
RAAM,

I am running mostly rebuilt vintage audio gear in my home system except for digital, and I am very dated on car audio. I would assume the fundamentals of setting up home stereo speakers would be followed in a vehicle where you can. I run mostly hi res music on computer audio and tried a room correction program where you take measurements at the listening position and software corrects for reflections of the room, would that be similar to a automotive processor? In the mean time I will try to read up on the subject. I like DIY audio and may check some of those sites as well.
 


OP
J

JBO

Member
Messages
41
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12
Location
Adelaide
Thread Starter #12
I have bitten the bullet on a major car audio install…pics soon...
Here's the rundown...

Amp/processor - Audison Bit 8.9
de-equaliser, time correction, crossovers, full parametric control - full OEM integration so get to keep display and steering wheel controls, phone and bluetooth integration.
note actual measured power for 4 channels bridged as shown in this review...
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/3882-audison-ap89-bit-amplifier-review

Speakers - Clarion SRD1700S 6.5inch Components
Amazing speaker, very rare, very highly regarded. Total bargain!
Going to run these active (149watts rms per channel to each tweeter and each woofer)
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-reviews/incar/clarion-srd1700s-component-speakers-review-395698

Under seat subwoofer - Focal iBus20
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-rev...-ibus20-8-inch-active-subwoofer-review-395410

Will dynamat the doors also...
 


RAAMaudio

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Carson City
#13
I love vintage gear, I really miss the Dynaco tube amp I rebuilt in the early 80's:)

Car audio is easier in many ways, I have never used any automated software though some is quite good I just did not need it and at best it is good for a ball park setup then fine tune by ear from all I have read.

I am sure the 8.9 is a great unit though it will take some time to really learn it and set things up right, I am too lazy for that now as I retired from too much critical thinking:)

I am way behind on building up a library of quality digital recordings and all my great CDs, some of which cost a great deal, are in storage. I went away from Vinyl many years ago as just no space, etc, when moving all the time in the Military.

Have to sign off for a bit, will get back to this likely in the AM, have a guest coming over soon.

Rick
 


Messages
120
Likes
37
Location
Columbus, Ohio
#14
Sorry to be off topic, but yea I am running Dynaco Mk III that I rebuilt a couple years ago. Still have a pair of MkIV that need rebuilding.....
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
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Location
Carson City
#15
Oops, did get a bit off topic, and just have to add a bit more, house system in storage for now:)

Oppo BD83SE, quad 24 bit DACS on the stereo outputs.
Fully modded Baby Sophia 10x2 watt tube amp is more than enough
Edgarhorn Slimlines with upgraded tweeters, huge oil filled caps, foil inductors, filled the whole house with incredible sound on just 10 watts per side.
Image Dynamics ID 15 subs, 2 in sealed boxes, Dayton rack mount H class 1000 watt amp.
(I have two more subs and two Peavey H class 1800 watt amps, if I hooked it all up using the processor in the Dayton amp, I could rock the neighbors walls:)

Trailer system:
50" Panasonic LED smart TV
Harmon Kardon 2.1 BR receiver(had to find something that fit in a smaller space but it sounds pretty dang good)
KEF Uni-Q line array speakers, I was going to build my own line arrays but got this $1200 pair for $300 brand new and they are great!
Arc Audio XDi 1100.1 sub amp
Arc Audio Black Line 12" sub in sealed box under stairs

--------------

Back more on topic:)

I have a bunch of Arc Audio and other gear for the dually and ST, just need to finish the installs sometime.
 


neeqness

1000 Post Club
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166
Location
LA
#16
The biggest issue with the stock HU is the tune it comes with designed to "make the best" out of poor tweeter locations and quality of speakers and likely tuned by somebody that does not really understand tuning a car system properly:(

Built in tunes are seldom our friend when doing speaker upgrades, why I either swap the HU or if not possible add a processor.

I did not take into consideration using the stock HU to drive the Esoteric mids, they are not very efficient and 8 ohms(ohm rating far less important than it seems) and I do not know the stock speaker specs to compare them.

I have not done the install in my car yet, spent to many hours, hundreds, on performance instead so not able to give any feedback on using those mids.

I an going to make sure to note in my first post to wire the tweeters out of phase with the mids when installed in teh pillars, almost always a big improvement in stage height, width and even depth as it is a poor mans way to time align them closer to optimal.
I'm looking to do this but I don't know what you mean by wire them out of phase. Could you explain or post a link to an explanation?

Sent using Tapatalk
 


GAbOS

Active member
Messages
745
Likes
166
Location
Carson City
#17
Google Audio Time Phasing

It's delaying the time the signal hits the speakers (left to right usually and in milliseconds) to adjust the "stage" of the sound.
 


OP
J

JBO

Member
Messages
41
Likes
12
Location
Adelaide
Thread Starter #19
So what did you end up doing?

Did the following and it sounds awesome?.if I was to add anything else, maybe extra dynamat in the rear hatch area and boot floor. But overall very happy.


Amp/processor - Audison Bit 8.9
de-equaliser, time correction, crossovers, full parametric control - full OEM integration so get to keep display and steering wheel controls, phone and bluetooth integration.
note actual measured power for 4 channels bridged as shown in this review...
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test...plifier-review

Speakers - Clarion SRD1700S 6.5inch Components
Amazing speaker, very rare, very highly regarded. Total bargain!
Running these active (149watts rms per channel to each tweeter and each woofer)
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-revi...-review-395698

Under seat subwoofer - Focal iBus20
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-revi...-review-395410

Dynamat front doors.
 




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