What oil brand do you use on your Fiesta ST?

[dyn085]

I see you too are confused by their marketing jargon, lol. They have really good stuff that is supposed to be like 7-11% better than mobil1 syn, then the have platinum plutonium plus+ sport magic ride race premium that is supposed to be 25% better than mobil1 syn. ( if you believe pennoils test results/marketing ).

The old Platinum formula was significantly better than all of the competition at that price-point, but I wouldn't say that the Pure Plus is-at least not for a GDI engine.

 

[Sourskittle]

. ( if you believe pennoils test results/marketing ).

Like i said.

 

[dyn085]

Like i said.

Um, no-that has nothing to do with what you said at all and I'm surprised you don't realize that. I'm talking about actual UOA's that have been done on people's vehicles as opposed to random marketing hype.

 

[Natedogg]

Marketing hype or not, for an OTS oil and it's price point, UOAs, VOAs, and other independent tests have consistently shown that Pennzoil Synthetics are very good oils.

Is it better than Mobil 1? The plethora of independent information on the internet can tell you that. If you're in to comparing marketing hype, that argument could go on forever. Let the real numbers do the talking.

 

[BeansNCornbread]

More food for thought when choosing a higher SAPs oil like PU. http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/.

 

[Sourskittle]

More food for thought when choosing a higher SAPs oil like PU. http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/.

That's good info
But.... If you have a catchcan ( which you should ), then oil droplets in the intake charge should not exist.

 

[BeansNCornbread]

That's good info
But.... If you have a catchcan ( which you should ), then oil droplets in the intake charge should not exist.

From what I've read the catchcan is still up for debate. Many are still seeing deposit issues or at least in the VW/AUDI crowd. I think Ford is also currently using some sort of mechanism that functions as a catchcan, though I haven't taken much time to nail that down. Only seen it referenced a couple of times.

As mentioned in other posts I've had 3 DI cars now as has my track buddy and neither of us have had issues even on the non track used cars. I wasn't aware of the recent research regarding SAPs and base stocks until this year so obviously I wasn't terribly careful about what oil I used previously either.

 

[Natedogg]

For giggles, I pulled off the PCV side hose at the intake manifold on my FiST the other day and found oil in it. Am I worried? A little. Would a catch can help mitigate the risk somewhat? Possibly, it depends on what oil is used, but catch cans aren't 100% efficient either. Oil entered in to the system via the PCV is only a small part of the equation. VW/Audi FSIs and TSIs have a built-in air/oil separator, not just a simple PCV valve. Those guys generally just catch water/fuel vapor in their catch cans, but yet they have an extremely high occurrence of carbon issues. Looking at the FiST PCV, it's just a PCV valve and a hose to the intake manifold.

Oil will still exist in the intake ports even with a catch can. Look at the nature of how valve seals work. While the seals are supposed to keep oil from dripping in to the ports, a certain amount has to get by to lubricate the guides. This oil runs down the stem and in to the intake port. It's not as much as the PCV adds to the intake system, but it's enough. See the mushroom of oil around this valve stem in this pic? That's the oil coming from the valve guides.

In the US, generally every oil available would be considered "high SAPS." In this country, no one seems to care like they do in Europe. SAPS is different than calcium content though. SAPS is Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulphur. Calcium content is a different story.

 

[BeansNCornbread]

For giggles, I pulled off the PCV side hose at the intake manifold on my FiST the other day and found oil in it. Am I worried? A little. Would a catch can help mitigate the risk somewhat? Possibly, it depends on what oil is used, but catch cans aren't 100% efficient either. Oil entered in to the system via the PCV is only a small part of the equation. VW/Audi FSIs and TSIs have a built-in air/oil separator, not just a simple PCV valve. Those guys generally just catch water/fuel vapor in their catch cans, but yet they have an extremely high occurrence of carbon issues. Looking at the FiST PCV, it's just a PCV valve and a hose to the intake manifold.

Oil will still exist in the intake ports even with a catch can. Look at the nature of how valve seals work. While the seals are supposed to keep oil from dripping in to the ports, a certain amount has to get by to lubricate the guides. This oil runs down the stem and in to the intake port. It's not as much as the PCV adds to the intake system, but it's enough. See the mushroom of oil around this valve stem in this pic? That's the oil coming from the valve guides.

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In the US, generally every oil available would be considered "high SAPS." In this country, no one seems to care like they do in Europe.

Actually, you have to get to 1.0 SAP to be high SAPS. PP and PU are at that I think. Valvoline Dino and Mobil1 (only the 20wt and 30wt non HM oils) currently are at the bottom end of the mid SAPS at or around .8. Synpower is .92 still I think. Even the diesel oil majority are at just under 1.0 now for CJ-4. Amsoil is probably well above 1.0 with its 3000PPM of Ca.

 

[Natedogg]

The calcium additive in the oil doesn't mean anything for it's SAPS content. SAPS doesn't include calcium.

So far every oil I have checked that is available to us in the US is around 2100-2700 Ca, except Castrol Edge (non-Titanium) which was in the 700's, and the extremely high Ca content of Amsoil.

 

[BeansNCornbread]

The calcium additive in the oil doesn't mean anything for it's SAPS content. SAPS doesn't include calcium.

So far every oil I have checked that is available to us in the US is around 2100-2700 Ca, except Castrol Edge (non-Titanium) which was in the 700's, and the extremely high Ca content of Amsoil.

I think it does given that they are replacing Calcium with other metals. See http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1036/diesel-engine-oil.

Your references are incorrect. See https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1 and the PDS for the 5w20 and 5w30 regular and Extended performance for the SAPs. Mobil1 is replacing Calcium with Magnesium since the SN release. and used to list out theirs in a PDF in the FAQ but I cant find it now. PQIA has this http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html, which is supported by UOAs on BITOG recently. For Valvoline see their Premium Conventional PDS. Calcium for Valvoline is listed at 1670PPM. Castrol appears to be adding back the Calcium per http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3654270/1/Castrol_Edge_Extended_Performa

 

[FiSTofNoVA]

I see you too are confused by their marketing jargon, lol. They have really good stuff that is supposed to be like 7-11% better than mobil1 syn, then the have platinum plutonium plus+ sport magic ride race premium that is supposed to be 25% better than mobil1 syn. ( if you believe pennoils test results/marketing ).

Exactly! If they say it, it has to be true, right? Well, either way, they got me. For serious though, it's supposed to be some really good stuff, so I am giving it a shot. I am not a fan of Mobil1, at least when I was running it in my Honda. I really wanted Lubromolly/Liquimolly. That is what I use in the GTI and I saw they have an application for the Fiesta but can't find where to buy it for the life of me! I want to stick with the 5w-20.

 

[Young L]

i changed my oil at 1k with castrol syn blend i think and motorcraft filter, at 5k I changed just the filter and at 10 i plan on going full syn. I had a logic behind it but for the life of me I cant remember why im doing it this way. Its something I read in the manual, damned if i remember it.

 

[opusmonday]

Sticking to motorcraft to about 5000 km and thereafter will move on over to Motul barring a better suggested option.

 

[GreGGo]

At 5.5k I changed with Motorcraft. At 10k, I will probably go Mobil 1. Run that in everything I've owned prior.

 

[Rhinopolis]

Living in Houston and approaching summer (hot and humid) in a brand new car/engine, I am not a big fan of 5W-20 oils. I know that there is plenty of research to support that they work fine, but I did a hard break in on my engine and elected to switch to AMSoil full syn 0w-30.

It's thinner on initial startup and then it thickens some as it heats up. The oil was changed out at 550 miles and I used one of their EA filters. I plan to run it until 3500 miles or 1 year, where I will do a Blackstone report to see how things are looking.

 

[GreGGo]

I have considered swapping to 5W-30. I'm in TN which gets very hot and humid.

 

[Rhinopolis]

I have considered swapping to 5W-30. I'm in TN which gets very hot and humid.

I use M1 5w-30 in my modified 2012 Accord V6 Sedan (Honda recommends 5w-20), and I have not had the oil consumption problems that's others have experienced with my generation V6 VCM engines. Oil is a very debatable subject, and the Internet has opened it up for war....lol.

 

[GreGGo]

I use M1 5w-30 in my modified 2012 Accord V6 Sedan (Honda recommends 5w-20), and I have not had the oil consumption problems that's others have experienced with my generation V6 VCM engines. Oil is a very debatable subject, and the Internet has opened it up for war....lol.

I avoid it. Haha... Just like to use what I know works.

 

[BeansNCornbread]

If you guys are interested Castrol's line of 5w20 have a 100c CST of 9.1. The AU and EU Motorcraft is 9.6. Gets you close to a 30wt while negating the opportunity for any Ford service dept to give you a hard time over your warranty should they be so inclined. Obviously you'd win in court running out of spec oil that is still reasonable, but that would be a painful struggle.