What oil brand do you use on your Fiesta ST?

[M-Sport fan]

I don't think that is my rep. Ill be sending my oil samples to Blackstone for analysis for anyone who is interested. Obviously it will be a while till my next oil change but I will make a new post on the subject when the time comes.

Thanks in advance for that!

Are you using their 5W-20, or some other grade?

 

[eddietorr]

Thanks in advance for that!

Are you using their 5W-20, or some other grade?

5W-20 for now. I'll change it up if I end up going big turbo but I doubt I will. Other projects will keep this car mostly stock. Lol

 

[flat_lander]

So at my autozone they are down to the following:
Valoline synpower 0-40
Valvoline racing synthetic 10-30
Pennzoil platinum Euro pureplus pureplus5-40
What say the oil godz? I'm leaning towards the euro as it says Ferrari approved on the label.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[Kazz]

I tripped through the motor oil aisle at Walmart when there yesterday. It seems Castrol has a full synth with some new additives to lessen wear. Anybody know anything about it? Once I eventually replace the RMM, removing as much vibration as possible is important to me. Thanks.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I tripped through the motor oil aisle at Walmart when there yesterday. It seems Castrol has a full synth with some new additives to lessen wear. Anybody know anything about it? Once I eventually replace the RMM, removing as much vibration as possible is important to me. Thanks.

They use a titanium compound instead of the regular/'traditional' various molybdenum compounds as an anti-wear/anti-friction additive.

It is a good/effective additive (Kendall also uses it), but neither it, nor even the best molybdenum/antimony/boron/whatever additives are going to noticeably effect/improve the idle vibes/rumbling with a high durometer bushing equipped aftermarket RMM.

I am currently using the (gold colored 5 quart jug) Castrol Edge Extended Performance 5W-20 (longer drain periods/higher starting TBN) with titanium in mine, but want to try the (Ford 945A approved/certified) Motul Specific 948B 5W-20 next.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

So at my autozone they are down to the following:
Valoline synpower 0-40
Valvoline racing synthetic 10-30
Pennzoil platinum Euro pureplus pureplus5-40
What say the oil godz? I'm leaning towards the euro as it says Ferrari approved on the label.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I'll repeat this again....when you are at autozone....ask the parts person to check other stores and have them do a store to store transfer if any is left at other stores......

 

[Kazz]

They use a titanium compound instead of the regular/'traditional' various molybdenum compounds as an anti-wear/anti-friction additive.

It is a good/effective additive (Kendall also uses it), but neither it, nor even the best molybdenum/antimony/boron/whatever additives are going to noticeably effect/improve the idle vibes/rumbling with a high durometer bushing equipped aftermarket RMM.

I am currently using the (gold colored 5 quart jug) Castrol Edge Extended Performance 5W-20 (longer drain periods/higher starting TBN) with titanium in mine, but want to try the (Ford 945A approved/certified) Motul Specific 948B 5W-20 next.

I appreciate your input. However, on my 2zz-ge equipped 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S with all bushings and mounts upgraded Polydyn TX-7 does, noticeably, reduce felt vibrations throughout the car when added to Mobil 1 5w-30. Therefore, I'm inclined to be looking for an additive or finding a full synth with an additive which achieves similar results.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^You could always run the Red Line 'street' oils (or Motul 300V, Millers Nanodrive CFS Racing, Torco SR5, etc., etc.) IF you feel that sky high, WAY ABOVE API SN/GF-5/Ford 945A spec anti-wear/anti-friction add packs help in the NVH at idle scenario.

Or use one of the super concentrated, crazy high add pack boosting additives; Torco MPZ (or their SEP if you want less ZDDP), LubeGard Bio Tech Engine Protectant, L.A.T. LFR <-(but I think this is no longer available?), etc.

But in EITHER case above, IF you are still within the Ford power train warranty period, OR IF you even care about having that warranty at all if Ford finds out by testing that you used those non-approved oils or additives when a claim is made, the above are risky choices.

 

[Kazz]

^^^You could always run the Red Line 'street' oils (or Motul 300V, Millers Nanodrive CFS Racing, Torco SR5, etc., etc.) IF you feel that sky high, WAY ABOVE API SN/GF-5/Ford 945A spec anti-wear/anti-friction add packs help in the NVH at idle scenario.

Or use one of the super concentrated, crazy high add pack boosting additives; Torco MPZ (or their SEP if you want less ZDDP), LubeGard Bio Tech Engine Protectant, L.A.T. LFR <-(but I think this is no longer available?), etc.

But in EITHER case above, IF you are still within the Ford power train warranty period, OR IF you even care about having that warranty at all if Ford finds out by testing that you used those non-approved oils or additives when a claim is made, the above are risky choices.

Good point. I'll stick with the best full-synth that meets their requirements then. I'm not even at my first oil change yet. Have a suggestion? Thanks.

 

[Maxpowa]

I've been running Pennzoil Plat full syn. at the specified 5w-20. I, like so many other FiST owners, have that bottom-end tapping noise that occurs when the engine is hot. The dealer recommended I switch to a 5w-30, but I'm skeptical as they did not put this recommendation into writing and am worried they'll go back on their recommendation should something occur to the engine. Your thoughts?

 

[SoyFiesta]

Is your car tuned or modded?

 

[Maxpowa]

Is your car tuned or modded?

I have the Mountune MP 215 kit installed, that's all.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Good point. I'll stick with the best full-synth that meets their requirements then. I'm not even at my first oil change yet. Have a suggestion? Thanks.

ANY of the good, top name synthetics; Mobil 1 (especially the EP which is VERY good for longer drains, and standing up to winter time fuel dilution/cold running acid formation with it's high starting TBN), Castrol Edge (again especially their EP version) or Magnatec, Pennzoil Platinum and Platinum Plus, Valvoline Synpower, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Kendall GT1 full synthetic (IF you can find it!!), etc.

I am personally going to try the Motul Specific 948-B oil next change since it meets the Ford 945A requirements (actually exceeds them, but IS certified for the 945A spec according to their U.S. based tech), and it is a REAL, FULL, 'EURO' synthetic with a HIGH group 4 (PAO) base stock content, unlike the 'U.S. spec' "full synthetics" which for the most part are mostly highly refined group 3 mineral base stocks, GTLs (Gas To Liquid, which yes are still very good-Pennzoil/Shell products), and other variants like Exxon-Mobil's 'Visom' base stock.

 

[dL_ST]

I use Motorcraft synthetic (OEM Oil)

 

[Kazz]

ANY of the good, top name synthetics; Mobil 1 (especially the EP which is VERY good for longer drains, and standing up to winter time fuel dilution/cold running acid formation with it's high starting TBN), Castrol Edge (again especially their EP version) or Magnatec, Pennzoil Platinum and Platinum Plus, Valvoline Synpower, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Kendall GT1 full synthetic (IF you can find it!!), etc.

I am personally going to try the Motul Specific 948-B oil next change since it meets the Ford 945A requirements (actually exceeds them, but IS certified for the 945A spec according to their U.S. based tech), and it is a REAL, FULL, 'EURO' synthetic with a HIGH group 4 (PAO) base stock content, unlike the 'U.S. spec' "full synthetics" which for the most part are mostly highly refined group 3 mineral base stocks, GTLs (Gas To Liquid, which yes are still very good-Pennzoil/Shell products), and other variants like Exxon-Mobil's 'Visom' base stock.

Thanks!

 

[IconST]

So like others have said with the penzoil plat and the ticking noise I do to hear it when hot. Any one care to recommend
A oil better? Or at least is this oil good ?

 

[jmrtsus]

I think the poll shows many of us follow what Ford recommends. At 11,000 I have had no tapping sounds using the Motorcraft Blend or Full synthetic. Both are Philips products and the consensus of those that look at the specs the Motorcraft Blend is Phillips 66 "Tropartic" Blend and the full synthetic is the Kendall GT1. The Kendall GT1 can be had on your doorstep for a little over $4 a quart online as both it and the Motorcraft full Synthetic are very hard to find. I have noticed one of the sponsors for the Ford GT race cars is Castrol.....wonder if the are going to dump Phillips and that is why we can't find it? Like Ford I believe a Blend is best for break in and a Full Synthetic with titanium after. The engine is delivered with a blend for break in and a choice after to upgrade to the Full Synthetic/ Titanium oil. Studies have shown that the titanium does indeed increase engine life by reducing wear. The Titanium does this by filling the microscopic pores in the iron sleeves with titanium and reducing friction and wear. So to me when Ford builds an engine they will use the best available oil as long life engines are a major part of a makes reputation. So like others suggested any top line synthetic will work very well in our engines, but I will use one with titanium.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^For the most part, titanium is just an alternative to/replacement for various forms of molybdenum (and to a lesser extent, ZDDP), and serves the same anti-friction/anti-wear functions.
Hard to say definitively whether it is "better" or not yet.

Does the GT-1 FULL Synthetic list the Ford 945-A spec right on the bottle (never read it myself, why I'm asking)?

Ford in Europe, and the rest of the world has long been sponsored by Castrol/BP for their team racing and rallying efforts, so I doubt that is the reason for the rarity of the FULL synthetic Motorcraft, or even Kendall GT-1 (which used to be on the shelves at either AutoZone, or Advance Auto, AND was available for oil changes at your local Firestone Tire store), but one never knows.

The telling sign would be IF the Ford dealer service departments start to use ONLY bulk Castrol product, and stop offering the bulk Motorcraft oils, but they could also have Castrol start filling the MC bottles instead of Phillips Conoco as well.

 

[jmrtsus]

M-Sport Fan....have to disagree on this one.....the tests results on long term fleet use of titanium additives are available on the internet and do indeed show it "works" in reducing internal friction, one study showed electron microscope photos of the embedded titanium in the cylinder sleeves

http://fleetowner.com/equipment/news/conoco-phillips-liquid-titanium-1109

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S101836391600012X

https://www.nist.gov/news-events/ne...ustomer-greener-antiwear-additive-engine-oils

This is why Kendall and Castrol offer it in their premium oils......and I believe this is why Ford recommends the Kendall GT1. And why the Castrol oil is in the GT's. Too many untested and not proven to do anything snake oil additives and third party additives out there, at least this one is proven even by the Feds at the NIST study. No marketing "wonder", this will actually do something good for your engine. I am a prove it kind of guy and did lots of research on the oil for my ST. Lots of claims for oil but the Kendall GT1 offer the only synthetic made from food grade mineral oil so free of impurities it is edible and we put it on our babies! Add the Titanium which they invented the liquid form of titanium and the engine makers recommendation and I had a simple decision on oil. With that said we all have our preferences and if you trade the car at under 100K miles I doubt the difference would matter to original owner. I on the other hand put over 300k on my previous car using dino oil (BMW 320is) without the engine burning any oil or ever being opened up......ran fine when I donated it to a charity. I would like to do the same with this car. So the biggest thing is frequent oil changes. But at least this additive has scientific proof it works rather than "marketing" research.

As to availability the parts stores show the Motorcraft Full Synthetic as "unavailable". PSC online had a sale recently on the GT1 due to the Qt. containers having new labels. The new labels show it as GT1 MAX. $4.58 per Qt. delivered make the cost comparable to the top oils in the 5 Qt. containers at the parts stores and wally world.

Wrench on!

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Thanks for those articles/links!

I NEVER stated that it "does not work", or was "snake oil" marketing as it HAS been proven to 'work' just fine, and then some.

I was merely questioning whether it was 'leaps and bounds' better than the dimer/trimer molybdenum compounds in conjunction with some ZDDP and boron, which it replaces, as an anti-wear/anti-friction additive.

Does the GT1/GT1 Max 5W-20 bottle show it is CERTIFIED for the Ford 945-A spec, as if it does, I too may be using it in the future.