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Laguna Seca Cyborg FiST 1/30/16

OP
J
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riverbank
Thread Starter #41
I've been looking to get into a new market for quite a while. As I'm sure you can imagine, building parts for a platform now 15 years deceased doesn't exactly cover my overhead for the shop I rent to play in. I tried dipping into the Focus market, but the number of people producing parts doesn't allow me to be very competitive, and it seems like I may be able to do some good around here. As for a kit larger than the 280mm SVTF rear, if I can find a rotor, I can make a bracket, it's not an overly complicated thing. What diameter are you running up front? At some point I'll start getting concerned over potential brake bias issues depending on that number.
I have a 12.2" rotor up front with my Wilwood setup with the Focus SVT non vented 11" rotor in the rear. The only issue at the moment is finding a rotor that is 4x108 that is bigger than 11" and is non vented. I believe a vented rotor would be too large for the bracket, unless something could get fabbed up.
 


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Waukesha
#42
I have a 12.2" rotor up front with my Wilwood setup with the Focus SVT non vented 11" rotor in the rear. The only issue at the moment is finding a rotor that is 4x108 that is bigger than 11" and is non vented. I believe a vented rotor would be too large for the bracket, unless something could get fabbed up.
Non-4x108 isn't a deal breaker, finding a non-vented rotor larger than 11" is what's got me stumped, but there's always a way. I'll keep digging.

http://www.prtautosport.com/store/p14/Brake_Rotor_Drilling.html
 


RAAMaudio

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#44
I am running WW GT11.75 front and 11" rear rotors under 15x9 wheels, lots of time and some money into it get to run but 9" wide wheels:)

It will not fit other cars unless heavily modded like a rear camber change and rolling and pulling the fenders as much as possible without cutting, welding, filling, painting, etc....no 15x8 or 7 I know of will fit over my brakes up front so got some 16x8's for A/S tires.

You might be able to find pads thin enough for vented rotors on the stock calipers or if interested develop the rear two piece rotors and piston caliper kit, I would gladly send any info I can and whatever help I can offer to you for doing this.

I went with a caliper not on the WW site that has ears for hooking up a parking brake though have not made the adapter for them yet. It does require some relatively simple machine work on brackets and the rear knuckles and due to the ears to mount the parking brake cable limits diameter of the rotors to 11" for 15" wheels but larger rotor diameters would fit under 16 or 17" wheels.
 


Siestarider

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#45
I would be all over aluminum hats with slightly larger front and rear rotors with stock calipers. Fit 16&17" wheels. Similar total weight to stock, but more rotor at both ends.
 


westcoaST

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#48
Thanks Josh for your interest. Can anyone think of other Fiesta ST parts Josh can help us with?
 


RAAMaudio

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#49
Possibly posted before but want to make sure it is known.

This should be a relatively simple process.

The Wilwood aluminum hat used on the 2011+ Fiesta, includes our ST, is part number 170-11902

It has the proper bore size for our hubs which they call Center Reg, 3.06"

All rotors are hub centric, stock, aluminum hats, etc which is good news.

We can use any 4x100 or other bolt pattern hat with the right center register, rotor bolt pattern 8x7.00, and then just find the one with the right offset to line the rotor up with the stock caliper.

If the offset is very close the stock calipers can be moved a bit with shims, if to far off then the hats can be milled to the right thickness, I had this done on my rear DIY 4 piston setup and it works just fine.

Since new caliper mounts would be required the proper offset can be machined right in so picking hats becomes easier and they should not need to be milled to fit.

All we have to do then is turn the hat 90 degrees and drill new holes in the 4x108 pattern or use as is if doing a 4x100 conversion. This can be done on a drill press or even a hand drill, just law a stock rotor on the new hat turned 90 degrees, line up, mark the centers, drill new holes. Best to round over or angle the edges to relieve any stress risers, I used a step drill which makes drill the hole and cleaning up the edges very easy.
(Note) put some blue tape over the hat surface first as the shavings can scratch the hat paint.)

There are 11", 11.75 and 12.19" GT rotors and some very low cost good rotors as well.
(STAY AWAY from drilled rotors, slotted are good, drilled not so)

-------------------

If I can get some measurements of the stock rotor hat height and rotor thickness I will look up the closest fitting rotor hat to help out, I have put together a number of DIY brake kits or modded kits offered using WW parts a number of times.

Rick
 


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#50
Blank hats are also available in the 8x7.00 pattern. I have the capability to machine the center diameter and bolt pattern to spec.
 


RAAMaudio

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#51
Cool about the blanks but they do have several hat thicknesses listed in 3.06" hub bore on the site in 4x100 so that would save a step that is more critical as the stud locations are slightly oversize not nearly as important to have perfect:)

If you have the hats with 4x100 and 4x108 lug holes it makes it easier for those that might want to do the 4x100 swap later.

It seems you are quite familiar with setting up brake kits so I will leave it at that, you have your preferences and will do the job right which is what matters most of all of course:)
 


Siestarider

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#52
I am really liking this, having done some of the research RAAM reports, buying brackets and hats to match would be my choice.

I would probably try the "el cheapo" rotors first to see how they hold up.

Thanks to Josier for this thread, SS for inventing Cyborg so it had a reason, and the Forum for letting thread jackers live.
 


RAAMaudio

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#53
This seems to be quite doable for a very reasonable cost upgrade and much less weight than bolting on larger one piece rotors and might end up weighing less than the stock rotors:)

Front fitment:

15" wheels, an 11.75" rotor might fit if the stock caliper outer edge is less than the Wilwood 6 piston calipers which I was able to barely fit under my 15x9 wheels.

To use the 6 piston calipers would require deeper mounted rotors(taller rotor hats) and caliper mounts made to match which I might do later on to fit under 15x8 wheels.

16" wheels, some should fit over the 12.19" rotors with stock calipers and some over the 6 piston calipers.
(The RPF1 will not fit over 6 piston calipers, I have a set on hand)

17" wheels, larger than 12.19 rotors should fit but I never looked into it.
 


RAAMaudio

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#54
I figured a bit more info from my actual experience might help, I have more to offer if requested, glad to help make things happen if I can:)

This seems to be quite doable for a very reasonable cost upgrade and much less weight than bolting on larger one piece rotors and might end up weighing less than the stock rotors:)

Front fitment:

15" wheels, an 11.75" rotor might fit if the stock caliper outer edge is less than the Wilwood 6 piston calipers which I was able to barely fit under my 15x9 wheels.

To use the 6 piston calipers would require deeper mounted rotors(taller rotor hats) and caliper mounts made to match which I might do later on to fit under 15x8 wheels.

16" wheels, some should fit over the 12.19" rotors with stock calipers and some over the 6 piston calipers.
(The RPF1 will not fit over 6 piston calipers, I have a set on hand)

17" wheels, larger than 12.19 rotors should fit but I never looked into it.
 


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Hagerstown
#56
All kinds of glory in this thread! Great to see first hand experiences and a cool rear brake upgrade in the works!
 


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Waukesha
#57
I haven't forgotten about you guys. Still trying to get caught up, now that it's refund season everyone wants everything at once.
 


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Location
Waukesha
#58
How much to you guys value your dist shields on the rear? Because of the distance the caliper is being relocated, I can't push it straight out as the concept bracket would have done, instead I need to rotate is up and out at the same time. This means you'll likely have to either cut or remove your dust shield to avoid interference. Is that a major problem?
 


Siestarider

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#59
Not for me, if I find a good reason to use dust shields I will just make a set. Best I can tell, they are not really doing much for brakes while tracking, may even restrict cooling.
 


RAAMaudio

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#60
If they can be moddified to accept a brake ducts hose I use them, if not, long gone.

Of course the rear of most cars does not need cooling so I just pull them off on any car I will use the brakes on track, in Mexico, etc...
 




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