Paint Chip Repair

[CaptainSlow]

Anyone have experience repairing paint chips (in particular, Tuxedo Black) on these cars or have a recommended repair brand/color match?

I washed mine yesterday, only to reveal a nice little paint chip, probably 1/2" long. One part of it's pretty deep too. I'm assuming it was a rock, but given the position and the streak it may have been someone's door.

Ignore the curb rash...that was my shitty wheel awareness in a drive thru lane. God that was the most awful sound.

 

[MKVIIST]

Tuxedo Black is going to be a very difficult to color match with touch-up paint. You can hire a professional touch-up painter to fix that chip for about $75 but you may not be happy if you're expecting like new. Some experts can use a sprayer to apply the paint which will make it look more smooth.

You can also try getting a touch-up paint and do the repair yourself for $16.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Motorcraft-Tuxedo-Metallic/dp/B001H1I7Z6

[video=youtube;Lnp3JizrSdE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnp3JizrSdE[/video]

 

[forevercasual]

I'd recommend www.automotivetouchup.com, they have exact color match and you can get it in spray or touch up. I have used their spray paint for molten orange and it did a great job with the color match of the metallic.

 

[lessard.dcj]

i been thinking of getting the car Rhino lined, not sure if it can be done. would add a little wieght but the protection would be awesome.

 

[Chuckable]

Some claim it doesn't work, some swear by it: http://www.langka.com/

I've used it with fairly good success on a Taffeta White Civic Si.

 

[2Cool]

I used Dr. Colorchip on my '15 GT Comp Orange, and it resulted in a repair that was good enough I had to look carefully at the right angle to see it, and even my detailer had no idea it had been done. I highly recommend it.

 

[Muldoon]

As mentioned above, you can get a tube of tuxedo black from your ford dealer. At least your damage is at the end of a panel, even if your repair job doesn't come out perfect, it shouldn't be too noticeable. As far as the curb rash, blame it on being hungry! Here is a video of a process I've found to be very tried and true. Which ever route you take, best of luck!

https://youtu.be/6xi3xmeO6C4

 

[DvC]

a sharpie and no one will know but you.

 

[CaptainSlow]

Finally got around to repairing it. Definitely not perfect, but better than bare metal.

Followed those Ammo NYC youtube videos to get a good idea of how to do it. The sandpaper+pencil eraser is a pretty useful/neat trick. I opted to do separate paint and clear coat applications, but I can see the benefits of mixing the two. I found the clearcoat was pretty weak and would chip off easily. The paint itself was also pretty soft which didn't help with sanding either.

Starting point, after washing the area with a spray bottle.

Sanded the chip down to smooth the paint edges and ruin some of my clear coat. 1000 grit was a bit aggressive....

First pass paint blotching

Sanding with 2000 grit, had to repaint the two nubs

Filled in the two problems.

Repeated this step below for the next 10 hours because I sanded too aggressively each time...

Mid-polishing with Turtle Wax

The final outcome.

 

[jayrod1980]

Not bad but probably would have turned out better with less of a pain with Dr Colorchip as the SMSgt proposed. As long as you don't have a 3 stage paint like White Platinum Tri-Coat, it matches well. Even then, I was able to reasonably coat the area where my exhaust pipes rattled paint off the bumper.

With Dr Colorchip you do a little sanding if necessary and then it's an easy dab with a brush and then wipe across the paint. You simply let it set for 10 mins, then re apply coats till the paint is level with the rest. Then you pour their solvent on a cloth and lightly swipe. The solvent removes all of the excess and you are left with really smooth paint that didn't look brushed on. With a two stage metallic like Tuxedo Black, I'm sure it will be hard to spot regardless.

 

[CaptainSlow]

I'll definitely give the dr. Colorchip a try next time. Although one hopes there isn't a next time. The smoothing out was definitely the hardest part, especially with sandpaper.

The motorcraft paint was what the dealership had so I just gave it a shot. Kind of sad the metal flake wasn't in there, but I expected that

 

[Muldoon]

Nice update. With it being at the edge of a panel, I'm sure it's barely noticeable now.

 

[FistSt215]

I have a few paint chips on the hood as well . Thinking about getting some touch up paint as well.

 

[MS67]

I'll be doing a write up on repairing some chips on my front bumper and other areas here soon in the coming weeks. If you have A LOT of time and patience, it can be blended in to look like the factory paint, and no one would ever notice it (on solid colors mainly). The more time you put into it, the better it will look.

A quick word of advice, don't sand the chip down BEFORE the touch up. You want to build up the touch up paint inside the chip until the paint itself creates a blob over the raised edges of the chip. This is done by filling the chip every 1-2 days, allowing time for the paint to cure after each application (and it will shrink down when it does so). After it's fully cured and you're left with a raised blob, that's when you sand.

 

[FistSt215]

Thanks for tip !! After washing my car today I notice I more than a few on my hood . I counted like 5 damn 95 south !!

 

[lessard.dcj]

i have about 60 or more chips in the car. ill have to burn it i think.

 

[CaptainSlow]

I'll be doing a write up on repairing some chips on my front bumper and other areas here soon in the coming weeks. If you have A LOT of time and patience, it can be blended in to look like the factory paint, and no one would ever notice it (on solid colors mainly). The more time you put into it, the better it will look.

A quick word of advice, don't sand the chip down BEFORE the touch up. You want to build up the touch up paint inside the chip until the paint itself creates a blob over the raised edges of the chip. This is done by filling the chip every 1-2 days, allowing time for the paint to cure after each application (and it will shrink down when it does so). After it's fully cured and you're left with a raised blob, that's when you sand.

I thought the intent of sanding first was to smooth out the chipped paint edges to improve adhesion as well as prevent chip propagation. I would imagine not having a sanded surface leaves it more susceptible to air pockets when applying paint.

Pretty sure this could become a huge debate though. From various video instructions, there's a bazillion ways to skin the cat. If you do the write up on a TB FiST, please show results! I think the biggest problem to my job was the lack of metal flake so it's a tad dull in that spot.

 

[konatodd]

I just ordered a Dr. Color Chip basic kit to try. I've heard good things about the kits, so I figured WTH. Will try the kit to repair a good size chip on the leading edge of the drivers side rear door.

 

[MS67]

Dr Colorchip works well for multiple shallow chips in a small area, think "sandblasting" from highway driving. It's not as successful on deeper, isolated chips but it will at least add some color to them.

 

[jayrod1980]

Dr Colorchip works well for multiple shallow chips in a small area, think "sandblasting" from highway driving. It's not as successful on deeper, isolated chips but it will at least add some color to them.

I would disagree with you on the deep chip statement. I've used their system on three vehicles. Where you run into an issue is large chips, not deep ones, and only when dealing with colors like white platinum. If their magnetic has some flake in it you should be ok.

What helps is to build the paint up in stages, dab and smear more paint every 10-15 minutes until you have built the chip above the paint. Then when you swipe the solvent on the applicator, be sure to not press down. You are only trying to take off the paint that is past the chip. You may need to apply more paint again and do the solvent step another time, but it is pretty effective.