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2016 fiesta st overheating

dmb

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I would say a wire to the sender has grounded out, have you been fooling around in their? or maybe the sender is bad. just my 2 cents
 


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South Bay
I would say a wire to the sender has grounded out, have you been fooling around in their? or maybe the sender is bad. just my 2 cents
Could definitely be any of those possibilities. This is the first car I've ever owned where I have made zero engine modifications. Haven't touched a thing...
 


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Could definitely be any of those possibilities. This is the first car I've ever owned where I have made zero engine modifications. Haven't touched a thing...
Update:

I just picked up my car. All is good.

As others here suspected and myself (I mean, according to physics is it even possible for the car to overheat within a few seconds?) the car was not, in fact, overheating.

At the dealer it was interesting, because I couldn't really get a straight answer or real details from anyone except for this: They reprogrammed a "module". They were hilariously non-specific about it. After re-programming the module, they monitored IR temperature, pressure tested and did the usual search for coolant leaks, etc. and everything was checking out completely normal, on both a road test drive yesterday and again this morning.

It sounds like this was a situation they are familiar with, but they are not admitting to it in any formal sense. Basically, if you bring in your car with these symptoms there is a procedure to deal with it, but they aren't going to put that in writing.

So if your ST does a similar thing, you may be lucky enough that it is simply a problem with the programming for an engine management "module".
 


Intuit

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Glad they fixed it, but it's strange they don't want to say what they did.
Sometimes you have to "read" or hear between the lines. Someone probably goofed and flashed the wrong firmware settings.

But the information you get from the Service Manager is typically second or third hand... and the Service Managers are paper pushers, (which isn't an insult,) not techs.
 


M-Sport fan

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... and the Service Managers are paper pushers, (which isn't an insult,) not techs.
^^^THIS! (and carnival barker BS type salespeople as well)

The vast majority of them I've ever dealt with know little to nothing about not just the cars with which they are dealing with on a daily basis, specifically, but even the very BASICS of automotive function and performance in GENERAL.

(But STILL vastly more than the majority of the dolts out on the sales floor out front. LOL)
 


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Location
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Update:

I just picked up my car. All is good.

As others here suspected and myself (I mean, according to physics is it even possible for the car to overheat within a few seconds?) the car was not, in fact, overheating.

At the dealer it was interesting, because I couldn't really get a straight answer or real details from anyone except for this: They reprogrammed a "module". They were hilariously non-specific about it. After re-programming the module, they monitored IR temperature, pressure tested and did the usual search for coolant leaks, etc. and everything was checking out completely normal, on both a road test drive yesterday and again this morning.

It sounds like this was a situation they are familiar with, but they are not admitting to it in any formal sense. Basically, if you bring in your car with these symptoms there is a procedure to deal with it, but they aren't going to put that in writing.

So if your ST does a similar thing, you may be lucky enough that it is simply a problem with the programming for an engine management "module".
Update:

Car is not all good. Same problem is back again three days later, at the beginning of a holiday weekend.
 


Intuit

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Intermittent problems are the worse. I'd be curious whether the problem can be easily and consistently reproduced by simply unplugging the ECT sensor.
 


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Keep us updated. Take it back in
The car went back to the dealer Wednesday morning. I picked it up Friday afternoon. Once again, all seems to be good... for now. Hopefully it will stay that way.

It is still confirmed that the car does not appear to have ever been actually overheating. Thank you all for the suggestions on what might be going on, I dug around this thread more and gave a few options to the service manager since they didn't seem to get it figured out the previous two times. I turns out that the CHT sensor was determined to be bad. They replaced that sensor.

Only time will tell if this has fixed the actual issue. The last few times it went back in for service due to the appearance of overheating on the temp gauge, it was anywhere between one week and three weeks of driving before the false overheating condition would reappear. I'll certainly post here if it comes back.

Thanks everyone!
 


M-Sport fan

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Did they check the wires to and from that sensor for any shorting, or even partial/motor movement caused type shorting??
 


Intuit

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Agreed. We often replace components when it is actually the connection and/or wiring that is at fault.
 


danbfree

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So what's the verdict with Water Wetter? Seems to have great reviews and I would be happy with 10 degree lower temps on my '17. I was hitting 211 with the temp at only 62 outside this week, so I even drilled 1/2" holes in the lower solid portion of the grille and has seemed to help a little, cooling down a bit quicker once moving, of course... This will be my 2nd summer with the car, it has almost 20k now so don't want to flush the coolant just yet, so a 12 oz. bottle should be fine I hope, $10 on Amazon... Also, why are people worrying about oil temps when full synthetic doesn't even begin to lower protection until at least 260? Especially when our coolant temps seem to climb quick and we will hit limp mode at 240...
 


TDavis

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So what's the verdict with Water Wetter? Seems to have great reviews and I would be happy with 10 degree lower temps on my '17. I was hitting 211 with the temp at only 62 outside this week, so I even drilled 1/2" holes in the lower solid portion of the grille and has seemed to help a little, cooling down a bit quicker once moving, of course... This will be my 2nd summer with the car, it has almost 20k now so don't want to flush the coolant just yet, so a 12 oz. bottle should be fine I hope, $10 on Amazon... Also, why are people worrying about oil temps when full synthetic doesn't even begin to lower protection until at least 260? Especially when our coolant temps seem to climb quick and we will hit limp mode at 240...
Stock rad?
 


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Location
Birmingham
I bought my ‘16 used a year ago. Last summer it overheated the coolant and went into limp mode. The reservoir was low, so I filled it and didn’t have a problem after it seemed to bleed the air out. I did a track day at a smaller kart track recently when it was less than 40*F. Later in the day it started to go into limp mode. The reservoir has remained at the high line for a few months/a few thousand miles.

I’d like to possibly install a Pumaspeed radiator at some point(because it’s black!), but I’m not sure it’s worth it to me yet since I mostly track a different car and haven’t had a problem on the street since last summer. I’ve got a bottle of Watter Wetter I’m gonna throw in and see how it goes.
 


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Location
Surrey
2016 My rad was replaced a few months back but since its been winter I haven't had a chance to test it out. Should have an answer here with in a month if the new rad fixed anything although I think I'm still loosing coolant slowly.
 




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