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Autocross alignment specs?

Plainrt

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#1
Any one have any alignment specs they are running on their fist for autocross? I gotta bring my car in and I'm wondering if should try anything away from the stock setup.


Thanks
 


RAAMaudio

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#2
The class you run will determine what you can do, stock class maybe just add as much camber as you can with the stock parts and try a bit of toe out as it can often get the car to turn in quicker but you will have to experiment unless you get direct advice here from somebody that has already tested it.

Those are the only two adjustable things on the car with stock parts besides air pressure and checking tire temps across the tread.

If your car is modified you will need to see where it fits in the rules by class and what can then be done.

Generally you want pretty serious front camber.
 


OP
P

Plainrt

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Thread Starter #3
I will be in class free to do whatever this year. I was thinking of playing with toe but didn't know if there was a sweet spot lol. Right now I'm running oem struts on swift springs to feel them out. If dont think up to par I'll go with koni yellows. I slotted front struts a bit to be able to get some more camber adjustment. So far just playing around setup is tons and tons better than last year. Thanks to listening to some people saying to run 225 starspecs on 7 inch wheel. Lol squishy setup that was........... I knew better but figured since so many said to and were doing it I'd try. Never again. I would have been better on stock wheel setup.
 


rodmoe

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wausau
#4
I am running as much Neg camber as the BC shocks allow (about-1deg top slot) and have a 6 point chassis bar. When I go AutoX i set the dampers to full hard and play with the air Pressure if it steps out too much All the rest is factory, With a little toe out (nearer 1/8 inch)
 


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Tallmadge
#6
Good question , I was also wondering this too I was thinking maybe running -.9 camber . it handles great stock just want more grip..
 


RAAMaudio

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#7
I forgot to mention if you just add more front camber you will cause more rotation of the rear, could lead to a bit to much, I happen to like a tail happy autocrosser so I can really toss it around and use the front to pull out out of the turns, have to drive a bit wildly but that is my style and pretty good at it, much more fun as well:)

For road courses I would not add to much camber up front as the car could tend to over rotate which is not something you want to have happen on higher speed corners, it is why I added more rear camber, a great deal of work went into it but the car is amazing with -1.9 rear, -2.5 front which is a little bit of compromise as I can leave it that way all the time for street and track, get more grip under acceleration and braking but give just a bit on some corners. I have had the tail slip out a bit here and there but very easy to control, this is the easiest FWD car to drive fast I have built so far.

It is a big challenge to make a FWD car do everything well, tail out on slow speed turns, neutral on mid speed turns, slight understeer on high speed turns, if that can be achieved it will be the absolute best one can do with any platform, FWD, RWD, AWD.
 


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Location
Birmingham
#8
So what amount of neg camber and toe are people runningon their ST in SCCA Solo HS? I'm sure some of it depends if you are running 19, 22 or 24mm front bar....

Thx
 


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Location
Milwaukee
#10
No adjustments in the rear(which are easily done by a normal shop, or recommended as standard practice), so all of your focus should be on front Camber and Toe(caster is not easily adjustable on most strut-based cars without specialized parts).

If you shoot for as much camber as you can get legally(street/stock class trim should be around -1.2'ish) and a touch of toe out to help with turn in and aid throttle lift off oversteer(rotation). I'll be starting with 1/16" toe out to start and see how I like it on my new 2016 chassis.(last chassis i raced was a 2014).

Hope that helps
 


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Location
Saline
#11
So what amount of neg camber and toe are people runningon their ST in SCCA Solo HS? I'm sure some of it depends if you are running 19, 22 or 24mm front bar....

Thx
Interested also if any HS legal alignment adjustments are allowed. What is the stock size front bar? funny hearing people putting a front bar on a FWD car instead of a rear, any reason why?
 


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Thornton
#12
I've heard some talk about putting a non-ST front bar on. Less front force would help induce oversteer.
 


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Location
Milwaukee
#13
I've heard some talk about putting a non-ST front bar on. Less front force would help induce oversteer.
Actually, most of the other "base" or Titanium sway bars are a bit larger than the stock ST bar. I just put the Ti bar on my car for autox. yes, i'll be giving up a little front traction, but my goal was to gain some transitional grip(slaloms and quick turn in). Stock is 20(iirc) and the Ti bar is 22mm.
From what i've experienced, the eibach is a bit too much for a street class autox car, but with other tuning in the suspension(struts) I can see it being an option at 25mm...

ymmv
 


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Location
Seattle
#14
I have the Eibach bar and I love it.
I tried running a stock front bar and an ST Suspensions rear bar. Made the doglegging much, much worse. These cares do not have a typical rear suspension setup. The twist-beam in the rear won't respond to a sway bar the way other cars do.
 




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