New Project in the works.

[parapraxis24]

Well, the lack of aftermarket support for headlights has been a disappointment to say the least. I was considering importing a set of Euro headlights, and putting an HID kit in them. Even then, I'd still be using an inferior light setup than a true retrofit. Plus the cost alone is staggering, $500+ for the headlights plus shipping from across the pond, then add in an HID kit and it's pushing $700, no way.

So I took it upon myself to start a proper retrofit. I went with a Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 HID kit, with 4500k bulbs and mini gatling gun shrouds. I did want the DRL similar to the Euro lights so I also ordered a pair of 18" LED switchback strips.

As I've discovered from starting this, it's all about having patience and the right tools and mode of attack. Baking them gets it started but a heat gun is a necessity to keep the permaseal pliable. So after probably 6 hours of work I'm at this stage:

Yep, only got one opened so far. Reason being, I wanted something to practice on so I bought a junked light from eBay, which was in really good shape minus the upper mounting tab. It's ok though, I learned how to open the headlight and wouldn't get too upset if I broke anything. I'm still waiting on the retrofit kit to show up, but I can install it on this one and take my time then just swap the reflector body into my actual headlights when I'm ready. That way I wont rush to get it done so I'm not missing a headlight.

More pics to come when my shipment arrives sometime this coming week.

 

[MS67]

Can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for doing this!

 

[trahma]

Awesome project! I've been in a similar position so I'll be watching too. It'd be great if you'd be willing to compile a parts list as you go.

 

[parapraxis24]

Can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for doing this!

No problem. I got tired of waiting for an aftermarket solution, and knew there would be Memorial Day sales going on, so I jumped into it.

Awesome project! I've been in a similar position so I'll be watching too. It'd be great if you'd be willing to compile a parts list as you go.

What else would you like to know? The projector housings are listed in my first post but if you have any questions ask away.

 

[parapraxis24]

Double post.

 

[trsandrew]

Hate permaseal yet?

 

[V_2]

What temp did you bake at, and how many minutes? Surprised that sucker actually fits in an oven!

 

[parapraxis24]

Hate permaseal yet?

Well, yes and no. Yes because what the hell was wrong with butyl? Shit worked, man. No because once you get into it, it isn't that bad. But seriously, what the hell was wrong with using butyl?

What temp did you bake at, and how many minutes? Surprised that sucker actually fits in an oven!

250 for 15 mins. Then again for 10 more if it cooled too much. It barely fits, maybe my oven is small but I had to wedge it in there. I bet if I dropped the rack one more position it would fit easier but I'm not comfortable enough having it that close to the heating element.

 

[trsandrew]

Well, yes and no. Yes because what the hell was wrong with butyl? Shit worked, man. No because once you get into it, it isn't that bad. But seriously, what the hell was wrong with using butyl?

No clue, aside from maybe cost of materials to produce the sealant maybe. Hey $0.10 a set is $0.10 a set.

Otherwise, headlights are not considered a serviceable part, so only modders notice stuff like this.

 

[parapraxis24]

So I'm trying to wire up some switchback LED strips as DRLs/Turn signals and am having a hard time figuring out how to wire them to get the functionality I want.

I know the easiest way is to run the power and ground to an accessory switched circuit (fuel pump for example), then a jumper on the turn signal. That way they'll be on white as long as the car is on, then blink amber for the turn signal. Problem is then, they won't blink amber when locking/unlocking the car because obviously the car wont be on accessory or start.

I was hoping that the headlight would be switched and only receive power through some locking relay, but at the fuses under the hood it has constant power so tapping that the white would never turn off. Can anyone think of a way to wire them to a circuit that turns on as soon as the car is unlocked then off after it is locked?

 

[posts]

Without checking the wiring diagram (is there one on the forums somewhere?) the power is probably constant, and the ground is switched. Probe the ground and see if it is switched and you'd get your answer.

 

[parapraxis24]

Without checking the wiring diagram (is there one on the forums somewhere?) the power is probably constant, and the ground is switched. Probe the ground and see if it is switched and you'd get your answer.

It might be, but that still won't let me accomplish what I'm after. Getting the LED strips to blink with the turn signal is easy, when the car is on. Getting it to blink while locking/unlocking isn't because if I tap an accessory line (say, fuel pump), it won't have power if the car isn't on.

 

[posts]

Ok how about this, pull 12v from the battery, wire that to relay 1 for DRL. You've got a switched power source to trigger that one so you're all set. Pull that same 12v from the battery to relay 2. Have it trigger from the turn signals going to the amber side of the strip. Boom done.

You could also do it a half ass way wiring the white led portion directly to headlight bulb, since you mentioned it's switched and hot all the time with a more than likely switched ground.

 

[trsandrew]

So I'm trying to wire up some switchback LED strips as DRLs/Turn signals and am having a hard time figuring out how to wire them to get the functionality I want.

I know the easiest way is to run the power and ground to an accessory switched circuit (fuel pump for example), then a jumper on the turn signal. That way they'll be on white as long as the car is on, then blink amber for the turn signal. Problem is then, they won't blink amber when locking/unlocking the car because obviously the car wont be on accessory or start.

I was hoping that the headlight would be switched and only receive power through some locking relay, but at the fuses under the hood it has constant power so tapping that the white would never turn off. Can anyone think of a way to wire them to a circuit that turns on as soon as the car is unlocked then off after it is locked?

Use these: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html

Then you just need your switched 12V source and your turn signal and it does the rest, acting as a simplified but waterproof 5-pin relay setup.

For my DRLs, I'm going to pull power from a wire I found inside that went to the boost gauge lighting. Hot only when accessory is hot.

 

[parapraxis24]

Use these: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html

Then you just need your switched 12V source and your turn signal and it does the rest, acting as a simplified but waterproof 5-pin relay setup.

For my DRLs, I'm going to pull power from a wire I found inside that went to the boost gauge lighting. Hot only when accessory is hot.

I'm using the xsb strips, I thought they came wired with basically the same thing already?

Here's how I want the strips to function: blink amber for keyless entry. Blink amber for turn signals. Run white DRL anytime the car is on, even with the headlights on.

Can the xchange drivers do all of that?

Second question: if they can do I remove the existing driver on the xsb strip or run them together?

 

[parapraxis24]

Well, aside from the LED project, the HID retrofit is moving forward; sort of. The h11 adapter that plugs into the factory bulb socket and connects to the HD relay harness is supposed to come "disassembled." Since it'll be inside the housing, it being disassembled allows you to pass it through the supplied grommet so the housing remains sealed. Somehow mine came with the pins pushed in place, and without knowing how to actually remove the pins I broke one. I have another on the way so for the time being I'm stuck.

Anyway onto the good stuff.

Once the housing is opened, you need to remove the reflector bowl. It's held in place by three ball-and-socket joints. One of which is only slid into place the other two need to be popped out. Take trim panel removal pliers, the same pliers you'll use to pry the lens away from the housing (yay for multi-use tools), and just pop the balls out of the socket.

You're left with this:

You'll need to remove the bulb cover (the thing with Ford printed on it). It's held in by a Torx screw, I have no idea what the size is; T15-20 would be my guess.

Here you can see the Torx bit, the ball and socket mounts and the H11 bulb base.

Damn, so close. A bit of modification will be necessary but not much. You'll also need to remove the lip so it is flush with the base.

Hole widened a bit and the projector fits through perfectly.

I skipped a bit, but that's really all you need to do as for as modifying the reflector bowl to fit the Mini H1.

I went with the small rubber washer inside the reflector bowl, and the H7 adapter plate on the mounting flange to keep everything tight. At this point the lock ring is only hand tight, because it is meant to deform when torqued as to not work itself off. This way I can still adjust the rotation of the projector, and its final position. Not only do we not have horizontal adjustment to fall back on in case something is screwy you also want to keep the relationship between the high and low beam the same. That way you aren't left with the situation of the low beam being aimed correctly and the high beam aimed up in the trees. Since the two cannot be adjusted independently, now would be the time to get them aimed correctly.



This is where I stop for now, I'm waiting on the replacement adapter harness and still trying to figure out the LEDs. More to come at some point.

 

[posts]

This is fantastic info since I'll be doing exactly this come the weekend. Your last picture is broke btw.

 

[parapraxis24]

This is fantastic info since I'll be doing exactly this come the weekend. Your last picture is broke btw.

No problem. For projects I always do tons of research to try to find answers to questions I have. Since only two members have done retrofits themselves (or at least only two posted about it), I wanted to add to the knowledge-base as best I could. So I'll keep adding stuff when I make some progress.

Fixed the last pic, thanks.

 

[posts]

No problem. For projects I always do tons of research to try to find answers to questions I have. Since only two members have done retrofits themselves (or at least only two posted about it), I wanted to add to the knowledge-base as best I could. So I'll keep adding stuff when I make some progress.

Fixed the last pic, thanks.

Yeah I come from the FRS/BRZ side and have written a ton of guides and how-to's. From basic stuff to flex fuel e85 kits etc. I was really surprised at the lack of DIYs on here, even for basic stuff like oil changes with pictures, or brake work. With your posts and mine we can put together a pretty good diy on how to retrofit this car since getting projector headlights is out of the question for most people.

 

[parapraxis24]

Yeah I come from the FRS/BRZ side and have written a ton of guides and how-to's. From basic stuff to flex fuel e85 kits etc. I was really surprised at the lack of DIYs on here, even for basic stuff like oil changes with pictures, or brake work. With your posts and mine we can put together a pretty good diy on how to retrofit this car since getting projector headlights is out of the question for most people.

Tell me about it man. I came from the B5 Passat/A4 world, LOADS of how-to's and DIY's.

Definitely, feel free to post here or start your own thread, the more information the better. Besides if you decide to do anything different
(halos, or painted housings), definitely worth having that information out there.