New Project in the works.

[posts]

Do you plan on using anything to lock the nut in place? Like JB weld or some sort of silicone? I've watched a few retrofit videos and they have used epoxy on the locking nut. I know it's supposed to deform when locking in place but I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Leave it be, or glue it.

 

[V_2]

I used permatex 5 minute epoxy on my last project to secure the projector to the rear of the headlight reflector. Just whatever was at the local auto parts store. That way I was sure the projector didn't rotate after it was tested, installed and aligned. The car had solid mounts everywhere and was NVH city, but the projectors stayed in place. Let it sit a day or 2 to fully offgas so you don't get residue on the inside of the housing.

 

[posts]

I used permatex 5 minute epoxy on my last project to secure the projector to the rear of the headlight reflector. Just whatever was at the local auto parts store. That way I was sure the projector didn't rotate after it was tested, installed and aligned. The car had solid mounts everywhere and was NVH city, but the projectors stayed in place. Let it sit a day or 2 to fully offgas so you don't get residue on the inside of the housing.

Thanks for the info, I added some 5 minute JB weld to my TRS order so that should work nicely. Good call on waiting for it to fully cure. I'll have to drive the frs in the mean time. Champagne problems.

 

[parapraxis24]

I don't plan on using epoxy, the lock ring should be enough with the washers on either side of the reflector bowl I don't see it moving much when torqued in place.

 

[posts]

Well my parts are in, built an "oven" out of some card board boxes. I'll definitely update if it catches fire haha. I'm so ready for the weekend.

 

[parapraxis24]

Well my parts are in, built an "oven" out of some card board boxes. I'll definitely update if it catches fire haha. I'm so ready for the weekend.

The ignition temp of cardboard is around 425*, you'll be fine. I hope you at least have a thermometer and a way to vent some heat once it warms up in there. Unless of course you have a heat gun that has a 250* setting, then you're fine.

 

[posts]

The ignition temp of cardboard is around 425*, you'll be fine. I hope you at least have a thermometer and a way to vent some heat once it warms up in there. Unless of course you have a heat gun that has a 250* setting, then you're fine.

I'm gonna get another oven thermometer with the remote probe and stick it in there to check on temps, and the top has a flap I can open to vent the heat out quickly. Will have fire extinguisher at the ready as well as moving blankets to insulate.

 

[posts]

Sorry to double post, card board oven warms up fast. Looks like we're a go for saturday. I plan on blacking out the reflector and the shroud for the stealth look since my fiesta is black.

 

[parapraxis24]

Sweet deal. I'm a bit closer to getting my LED situation worked out. Hopefully next week I can get everything done and on the car.

 

[parapraxis24]

Pretty sure I got my LED situation figured out, just waiting on a wiring diagram to be drawn out for me so I can test it out.

Also went ahead and ordered the headlight harness pigtails both male and female, so I can steal some pins from them and add to my existing plugs. That way the wiring I add to the headlight for the LEDs runs through the factory harness and looks OEM, and simplifies removal if I ever need to do that.

 

[posts]

Little bit of a set back today. Tried to get a jump start on the headlights tonight but lost power in the garage. It's a common issue for me and very annoying to trouble shoot. Finally fixed it at 9:30 tonight. My friend who was helping me had to split due to an emergency too and I don't know if he will be helping me tomorrow. I'm torn now since I don't know if I should start on them first thing in the morning alone or just pop the headlight back in and wait until my friend can help me.

 

[parapraxis24]

Little bit of a set back today. Tried to get a jump start on the headlights tonight but lost power in the garage. It's a common issue for me and very annoying to trouble shoot. Finally fixed it at 9:30 tonight. My friend who was helping me had to split due to an emergency too and I don't know if he will be helping me tomorrow. I'm torn now since I don't know if I should start on them first thing in the morning alone or just pop the headlight back in and wait until my friend can help me.

Man that sucks. To be honest, if its the first set of perma-seal headlights you're retrofitting, it's gonna take some time to get into the first one I can't see you being able to do both in a day. Your friend can help with the next one when he has time.

 

[posts]

Man that sucks. To be honest, if its the first set of perma-seal headlights you're retrofitting, it's gonna take some time to get into the first one I can't see you being able to do both in a day. Your friend can help with the next one when he has time.

I'm going to put it off until he's free. Question, how are you wiring the high beam trigger? I didn't realize the fiesta uses some weird high beam bulb. Tapping the wiring harness?

 

[parapraxis24]

I'm going to put it off until he's free. Question, how are you wiring the high beam trigger? I didn't realize the fiesta uses some weird high beam bulb. Tapping the wiring harness?

I'm actually not going to wire up the bi-xenon function. I use the high beams maybe 1 out of every 1000 times I drive at night, and the stock halogen ones will work fine. Plus it's a point of failure I'd rather not deal with.

H1 is a normal size, but Ford did a weird way of mounting it on this car. You'll have to tap into the existing wiring either by removing the high beam all together and just using female spades into the harness or tapping into the wires. I would at least test the solenoid without the bulb in place (saves you from splicing the stock harness) to get the polarity right.

I'll just upgrade the H1 halogens to something that is closer in color, but again I barely use the high beams as is.

 

[posts]

I'm actually not going to wire up the bi-xenon function. I use the high beams maybe 1 out of every 1000 times I drive at night, and the stock halogen ones will work fine. Plus it's a point of failure I'd rather not deal with.

H1 is a normal size, but Ford did a weird way of mounting it on this car. You'll have to tap into the existing wiring either by removing the high beam all together and just using female spades into the harness or tapping into the wires. I would at least test the solenoid without the bulb in place (saves you from splicing the stock harness) to get the polarity right.

I'll just upgrade the H1 halogens to something that is closer in color, but again I barely use the high beams as is.

Gotcha, I'm probably going to just tap the wires in the headlight with either a crimp or soldering them. I plan on blacking out both the low and high beam so I'll need a functioning flipper. Also, did you get all the permaseal out and replace with butyl or are you going to just bake it closed using whatever ford used?

 

[parapraxis24]

Gotcha, I'm probably going to just tap the wires in the headlight with either a crimp or soldering them. I plan on blacking out both the low and high beam so I'll need a functioning flipper. Also, did you get all the permaseal out and replace with butyl or are you going to just bake it closed using whatever ford used?

You need to remove all if the permaseal from the lens and housing to reseal it properly, at least that's what I've been told by those who do this for a living.

Once they're open, put em back in the oven again to soften it then scrape it away. I haven't done it because I've only opened the junked housing and it seemed like a waste of time to spend on something I only wanted the reflector bowl out of.

 

[parapraxis24]

Picked up the pigtails today, $22 per, but at least the wires added for the LEDs will run through the existing plugs and look factory.

They come with 16 pins each, and I should only need 4 from each so if anyone needs any LMK I have some to spare.

 

[posts]

Picked up the pigtails today, $22 per, but at least the wires added for the LEDs will run through the existing plugs and look factory.

They come with 16 pins each, and I should only need 4 from each so if anyone needs any LMK I have some to spare.

Pics? I might be interested.

 

[parapraxis24]

 

[posts]

Damn. Even with that stuff I don't think that would get me a true OEM plug and play due to the ballasts, igniters, etc. I'm gonna have a rats nest anyways. If I didn't have the retrofit source harness already I'd be all over these. I'll have to think about it. Is there a name for these or part number?