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How necessary is a new intake?

Messages
367
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46
Location
Huntington Beach
#1
Sup everyone? I have a new 16 FiST, and I'm trying to plan out my mods accordingly. I've seen a lot of debate about intakes and if they are worth the cost, but I would like some input on my plans: My car only has 500 mi on it so I have some time before the mods begin, but the first things I'm doing (after window tints and a RMM) is getting a FMIC, Hot Side Charge Pipe, and a Tune. I plan on doing that all at once, and budget willing I'll get an exhaust at the same time, but I can put that off because its more just for sound.

So basically I'll be rocking a stage 2, just without an intake. I'm just not sure if getting an intake is worth the cost. I've seen some people do mods to their intake, like cutting a hole in the top of the bumper to add some more area for air to flow, or opening up the front of the box with some quick drilled holes. Basically is a CAI worth the cost, over just a cheap mod that might work as well?
 


Messages
425
Likes
84
Location
Brooklyn
#2
I'm on the same boat but really want an intake for... the way it looks. anyway. apparently a drop in filter / stock box mod is just fine. intercooler and cobb ap is where the monies at.

i got an AP and will get an intake and IC.. then will just do reliability mods such as radiator, occ, uh... euro projector lights? :) lol.
 


Messages
26
Likes
4
Location
Budd Lake
#3
I was in the same boat but pulled the trigger on the MAPerformance CAI and I am so happy that I did. It adds a nice little extra grumble and with the windows down, I can hear the turbo spool and blow off. Aesthetically, it looks great and while I know the gains are negligible compared to exhaust and tune, I am still happy I got it. Also did the COBB RMM which was a definite improvement too.
 


Messages
346
Likes
61
Location
Gainesville
#4
They're pretty much for noise only. The only ones that add noise and don't suffer from heat soak are going to be the enclosed ones and even then metal is going to retain heat much more than the factory plastic box.

I had a k&n and switched to a Moutune. Both heat soak in the FL summers (initial bog after sitting in traffic). I used gold reflective tape on the mountune box, and no longer have this happen.

Mountune is definitely quieter than the open filters, but not as quiet as the stock box.
 


Messages
42
Likes
12
Location
Louisville
#5
I installed a Mishimoto '16 intake a couple weeks ago, and I've been very happy with it. I like the look and the added sound. Though I don't have any dyno pulls to prove it, I feel a marginal yet noticeable increase in power, as the the blinking traction control light is easier to achieve.

I had a drop-in filter for about 2000 miles before installing the intake, and it was an improvement over stock, but the full intake is an improvement over that.

My plan is to next upgrade the FMIC and charge pipes. I could be wrong, but I didn't see a point in upgrading the intercooler before installing an intake to push/take-advantage-of the cooler charge temps.

That said, it wasn't cheap.

You could always get a drop in filter and cut holes in your air box for much cheaper, then upgrade to a CAI down the road if you feel you want more.
 


OP
BiigMe
Messages
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Location
Huntington Beach
Thread Starter #6
You could always get a drop in filter and cut holes in your air box for much cheaper, then upgrade to a CAI down the road if you feel you want more.
Thats what I'm thinking, get an elbow and cut a hole right by where the stock boxes snorkel is.
 


Capri to ST

1000 Post Club
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CHAPEL HILL, NC, USA
#7
Just FYI this is from the thread on the D-Sport Mag analysis of the strength of the OEM components of our engine, before increasing the HP with an aggressive build-

Ford EcoBoost 1.6L Analysis | Turbocharged, Direct-Injection & CCVTC
DSPORT ISSUE# 168
Plastic intake manifolds are becoming more and more common on modern engines. While early plastic intake manifolds did not take kindly to aftermarket forced induction, this manifold was designed for a lifetime under boost. While it?s more cosmetically challenged than an aluminum variant, it should be able to get the job done.


This is from this thread-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/9976-Complete-Analysis-of-the-1-6L-Ecoboost-Engine
 


fST

Member
Messages
279
Likes
71
Location
Maryland
#8
Just FYI this is from the thread on the D-Sport Mag analysis of the strength of the OEM components of our engine, before increasing the HP with an aggressive build-

Ford EcoBoost 1.6L Analysis | Turbocharged, Direct-Injection & CCVTC
DSPORT ISSUE# 168
Plastic intake manifolds are becoming more and more common on modern engines. While early plastic intake manifolds did not take kindly to aftermarket forced induction, this manifold was designed for a lifetime under boost. While it?s more cosmetically challenged than an aluminum variant, it should be able to get the job done.


This is from this thread-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/9976-Complete-Analysis-of-the-1-6L-Ecoboost-Engine
I don't think the discussion here is about intake manifolds though.
 


Siestarider

Senior Member
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292
Location
Stuart
#10
For those of you thinking about this, my experiments with a manometer measuring air pressure (not temp) convinced me that any opening (including Mountune's version) that resides behind the stock intake opening is operating under some degree of vacuum unless car is standing still.

Thinking about why 2J intake works so well, cowl is a high pressure point at speed. Pressure goes up with velocity. Stock intake is exposed to higher air pressure at speed due to its inlet location forward of engine bay.

Mountune's theory that a second "cold" air intake located behind fog light enclosure sounded good to me, which is why I bought one. Later, when trying various aerodynamic mods, I measured air pressure at the lower Mountune inlet location and it was below atmospheric at 80 mph. So in theory I was adding a vacuum source to intake box. Cooler or not, lower air pressure should not really help. I closed it off and could not find a difference between 3rd gear logs, so it does not necessarily hurt anything, nor does it measurably help. I have been running it closed off for 6 months now.

I just picked up some 2.5" air hose and a flange, am going to try taking out driver's side fog light and using that opening to feed lower Mountune inlet. Manometer data say pressure at 80 mph is higher at that location than at cowl. Probably have to try closing stock intake inlet to see what it really does, but if I can get anywhere close to 2J intake performance without the noise, it will be a winner.

Keep in mind my interest is tracking, so more performance at speed is my goal. My guess is this approach will not help around town, especially here in Fla, as pavement heat effects with a second intake closer to street may be more important than air pressure for around town driving.
 


Messages
343
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101
Location
Sheboygan
#11
I went for straight function over form. Stock air box with the bottom cut off and a 3" flange glassed in. Then I wrapped the whole thing in gold foil. A Mishimoto induction hose will join the party as soon as it arrives, and the next project is to reroute the second induction hose from the usual location to a vented fog light housing (waiting for the replacement housing to arrive). Oh, and a K&N filter.
 


OP
BiigMe
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Location
Huntington Beach
Thread Starter #13
Sorry, forgot the pic.
I'm thinking of doing something similar, but cutting a hole beneath the stock snorkel, adding in a ram right behind the grill to feed air up into the stock location. How much does the gold foil help?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 


Messages
123
Likes
26
Location
Whittier
#14
I would just pick up a nice drop in filter. Just to have for now you can always upgrade late. I did a drop in and just added a misihimoto induction hose when it was on sale.
 


Messages
343
Likes
101
Location
Sheboygan
#15
To be honest, no clue. I've only had the Fiesta a month, but with lessons learned from previous vehicles, I'm choosing to wrap anything that contributes to heat soak if I have the chance. Starting at the air box is probably overkill, but I'm fine with that. I'd rather do it when parts are out of the car, than wish I had once they're in.
 


Messages
343
Likes
101
Location
Sheboygan
#16
FYI, if you go this route, a 15' roll of 2" tape gets the job done, if you're careful about reusing funny shaped scraps.

Edited to correct that I brain farted and listed twice as much tape as needed.
 


Messages
346
Likes
61
Location
Gainesville
#17
I'm thinking of doing something similar, but cutting a hole beneath the stock snorkel, adding in a ram right behind the grill to feed air up into the stock location. How much does the gold foil help?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
On the gold foil I feel like it helps, but no data to back it up. I had a k&n intake before switching to a Mountune box, and with both I'd feel a bit of hesitation or slight bogging when moving from a standstill after the car had warmed up a bit and I'd been sitting at a light. I gold foil wrapped the Mountune box and have not had that feeling since. Mind you I don't even have that second duct on the Mountune installed it's just wide open under the hood and I still don't feel like it bogs after sitting still in the sweltering FL heat.
 


BRGT350

1000 Post Club
Messages
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762
Location
Grand Haven
#18
I used a drop-in Mountune filter, and added a velocity stack from a Yamaha bike to the side of the lower air box behind the headlight and another at the bottom of the air box from a Weber carb. I did not notice any performance improvement with the velocity stacks, but it does sound good.

Fiesta SFE 1.0L air box modification by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr
This is the same modification we did to my brother's 1.0L Fiesta. I somehow don't have any pictures of my ST one, but it is the same stacks and same gold wrap.
 


Bluedrank

Active member
Messages
676
Likes
253
Location
Winter Park
#19
For those of you thinking about this, my experiments with a manometer measuring air pressure (not temp) convinced me that any opening (including Mountune's version) that resides behind the stock intake opening is operating under some degree of vacuum unless car is standing still.

Thinking about why 2J intake works so well, cowl is a high pressure point at speed. Pressure goes up with velocity. Stock intake is exposed to higher air pressure at speed due to its inlet location forward of engine bay.

Mountune's theory that a second "cold" air intake located behind fog light enclosure sounded good to me, which is why I bought one. Later, when trying various aerodynamic mods, I measured air pressure at the lower Mountune inlet location and it was below atmospheric at 80 mph. So in theory I was adding a vacuum source to intake box. Cooler or not, lower air pressure should not really help. I closed it off and could not find a difference between 3rd gear logs, so it does not necessarily hurt anything, nor does it measurably help. I have been running it closed off for 6 months now.

I just picked up some 2.5" air hose and a flange, am going to try taking out driver's side fog light and using that opening to feed lower Mountune inlet. Manometer data say pressure at 80 mph is higher at that location than at cowl. Probably have to try closing stock intake inlet to see what it really does, but if I can get anywhere close to 2J intake performance without the noise, it will be a winner.

Keep in mind my interest is tracking, so more performance at speed is my goal. My guess is this approach will not help around town, especially here in Fla, as pavement heat effects with a second intake closer to street may be more important than air pressure for around town driving.
I'm very interested to hear more about this project. Will you keep us updated?
 


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