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ARP downpipe stud and nut kit help

DangerMouse

Senior Member
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Rockford
#1
I'm in the middle of the most fun ever downpipe install.

I have the ARP stud kit but they only thread in a couple threads and get super tight, I don't want to force them, I have made it this far without breaking anything.

The oem bolts came out pretty easily, I was surprised.

Any suggestions?
 


kivnul

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#2
Compared side by side the thread pitch and overall diameter of the bolts and studs are the same? Are you using an anti-seize? (recommended)
 


OP
DangerMouse

DangerMouse

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #4
I'm getting anti seize now, it's the one thing I forgot at home. The threads look the same.
 


OP
DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #6
Anti seize helped a little. Unfortunately two out of the four nuts are stuck on the ARP studs. I need three. The allen head wrench is too small to tighten them in and I don't have a socket allen.

I need to get it done today so it looks like the oem studs will have to do.
 


OP
DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #7
Downpipe is on just need to connect the exhaust. The anti seize definitely helped. Too bad I am dumb and couldn't get the arp studs to work. I got lucky with the oem bolts living in the Midwest.
 


kivnul

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#8
Glad you got it to work out. I doing the same thing myself this last weekend. Somehow I either miscounted or misplaced some studs. Had to reuse one bolt.
 


Messages
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Location
North Branford
#9
FWIW, I know a lot of people are are thinking they are helping themselves by using stainless studs in a turbine housing, but its really not a great idea. Not dissing ARP fasteners, they make some very nice pieces, which I've used in several applications. 25+ years of experience has taught me that you should plan for component failure. Turbine housing and manifold bolts have a high tendency to seize up, regardless of the material. The issue with stainless is that it's a much harder material, and more brittle than mild steel or chromoly fasteners. Stainless on stainless also seems especially susceptible to galling. Trying to drill/extract a sheared off stainless fastener from a manifold or turbine housing is not my idea of a good time.

At the very least you should chase out your threads with a good quality bottoming tap and use some high temp copper anti seize, something good for at least 1800*F.

Not trying to start any arguments, just my $.02 based on things that I've had to deal with over the years.
 


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