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Boost leak

unspokenzero

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#1
So the other night I was on the way back running some errands for the wife and I was hearing this strange wistle coming from my angry egg. I guessed it was from a dirty filter which i had plans to wash this weekend. Last night I was doing some backroads carving and i felt a sudden loss in power. Parked the car for the night, stepped my maps down to eco mode and took the kid to school in the morning.

After I took my kid to school this morning I jacked the egg up and found a crack in my charge pipe where it mounts to the transmission.

I have a few options.

1. Duct Tape, how long will it last?
2. JB Weld, it should hold up to the pressure of the turbo but, i'm not sure.
3. Replace the part. Don't have the money at the moment.

Here's a photo of the damage. What is the recommendation of the community for this?

 


slopoke

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#3
For a temp fix that might possibly hold up, the only thing that I can think of is doing a plumbers patch. Piece of sheet metal bent to the radius of the chargepipe lined with sheet rubber and attach it to the pipe with hose clamps. As an added precaution, I would coat the rubber where it contacts the chargepipe with high temp red RTV and let that setup overnite.

Since your photo does not appear and you stated that it cracked where it attaches to the tranny, you are probably have to remove the attach bracket to the tranny to get this type of repair to work. Good luck.



 


kivnul

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#4
I hate reading website code. Found his image

https://imgur.com/a/12Bvtkv

That is a crack right at the tab. JB weld might do the trick (maybe take the pipe off and put the paste on from the inside, plug style) Though welding it might be best. An exhaust shop should be able to fix you up for cheap. Many people get along fine without that mount point so you can leave the tab off to make the fix more permanent. (with the tab on, you get more stress on that spot)
 


Last edited:

KnockOff

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#5
I guess in the end it's a good reason to buy a mbrp charge pipe right? Its probably just as much as the ford part.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 


OP
U

unspokenzero

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Thread Starter #6
Sorry I should have gotten back to you guys earlier. New baby has my attention. I am looking at getting some JB weld this weekend to keep the boost juice in.

Hi, Phil Swift here with Flex Tape! The super-strong boost-proof tape!


BTW your photo isn't loading for me, so I don't know if your pipe is plastic or metal.

In seriousness you're probably not going to get away with a simple patch job. Seems like something a very strong epoxy might work for but I think anything is going to be temporary until you replace the pipe or get it welded if it is metal.
You may be right.

For a temp fix that might possibly hold up, the only thing that I can think of is doing a plumbers patch. Piece of sheet metal bent to the radius of the chargepipe lined with sheet rubber and attach it to the pipe with hose clamps. As an added precaution, I would coat the rubber where it contacts the chargepipe with high temp red RTV and let that setup overnite.

Since your photo does not appear and you stated that it cracked where it attaches to the tranny, you are probably have to remove the attach bracket to the tranny to get this type of repair to work. Good luck.



looks like a good idea.

I hate reading website code. Found his image

https://imgur.com/a/12Bvtkv

That is a crack right at the tab. JB weld might do the trick (maybe take the pipe off and put the paste on from the inside, plug style) Though welding it might be best. An exhaust shop should be able to fix you up for cheap. Many people get along fine without that mount point so you can leave the tab off to make the fix more permanent. (with the tab on, you get more stress on that spot)
I don't know why the image didn't show up. Thanks for finding it.

I'll have to look into a shop local. Running tabless i'll possibly need someting to keep one of the screws from the transmission from driving another boost leak.

I guess in the end it's a good reason to buy a mbrp charge pipe right? Its probably just as much as the ford part.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
i'll have to look into that. The broken part is from NMAP. Don't know what I did to crack it but there is a dent in it also.
 


OP
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unspokenzero

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Thread Starter #7
Sorry I should have gotten back to you guys earlier. New baby has my attention. I am looking at getting some JB weld this weekend to keep the boost juice in.

Hi, Phil Swift here with Flex Tape! The super-strong boost-proof tape!


BTW your photo isn't loading for me, so I don't know if your pipe is plastic or metal.

In seriousness you're probably not going to get away with a simple patch job. Seems like something a very strong epoxy might work for but I think anything is going to be temporary until you replace the pipe or get it welded if it is metal.
You may be right.

For a temp fix that might possibly hold up, the only thing that I can think of is doing a plumbers patch. Piece of sheet metal bent to the radius of the chargepipe lined with sheet rubber and attach it to the pipe with hose clamps. As an added precaution, I would coat the rubber where it contacts the chargepipe with high temp red RTV and let that setup overnite.

Since your photo does not appear and you stated that it cracked where it attaches to the tranny, you are probably have to remove the attach bracket to the tranny to get this type of repair to work. Good luck.



looks like a good idea.

I hate reading website code. Found his image

https://imgur.com/a/12Bvtkv

That is a crack right at the tab. JB weld might do the trick (maybe take the pipe off and put the paste on from the inside, plug style) Though welding it might be best. An exhaust shop should be able to fix you up for cheap. Many people get along fine without that mount point so you can leave the tab off to make the fix more permanent. (with the tab on, you get more stress on that spot)
I don't know why the image didn't show up. Thanks for finding it.

I'll have to look into a shop local. Running tabless i'll possibly need someting to keep one of the screws from the transmission from driving another boost leak.

I guess in the end it's a good reason to buy a mbrp charge pipe right? Its probably just as much as the ford part.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
i'll have to look into that. The broken part is from NMAP. Don't know what I did to crack it but there is a dent in it also.
 


kivnul

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#8
A secondary note about patching it... If whatever you patch it with falls apart.. and ends up going down stream.. it could go all the way to the cylinders. That would be bad.
 


KnockOff

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#9
I didnt even think of that! That would be horrible.
A secondary note about patching it... If whatever you patch it with falls apart.. and ends up going down stream.. it could go all the way to the cylinders. That would be bad.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 


TyphoonFiST

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#10
I vote for getting a new charge pipe! [wiggle] or just use some Baby poop...let that setup up and cure. Its strong as crap!
 


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unspokenzero

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Thread Starter #12
I vote for getting a new charge pipe! [wiggle] or just use some Baby poop...let that setup up and cure. Its strong as crap!
Need an interrum fix. My kids poop isn't quite up to the task of helping with dad's issues just yet. The charge pipe will have to be a bit down the road.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 


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unspokenzero

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Thread Starter #13
If you don't have a buddy with a welder, take the pipe to a muffler shop and have them weld it. I'd recommend doing it without the mounting tab. They shouldn't charge you anything more than a case of beer (or the monetary equivalent), and it shouldn't take more than an hour if they're moderately busy. That would be the best fix short of a replacement, and doesn't risk failing within the day or falling into your engine.
Unfortunately i'm new to this city so I don't know any welders :(. I'll hopefully find someone here who can weld this back together.
 


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unspokenzero

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Thread Starter #14
If you don't have a buddy with a welder, take the pipe to a muffler shop and have them weld it. I'd recommend doing it without the mounting tab. They shouldn't charge you anything more than a case of beer (or the monetary equivalent), and it shouldn't take more than an hour if they're moderately busy. That would be the best fix short of a replacement, and doesn't risk failing within the day or falling into your engine.
Unfortunately i'm new to this city so I don't know any welders :(. I'll hopefully find someone here who can weld this back together.
 


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