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What oil brand do you use on your Fiesta ST?

What oil brand do you use on your Fiesta ST?

  • Motorcraft

    Votes: 119 27.1%
  • Havoline

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Quaker State

    Votes: 4 0.9%
  • Castro

    Votes: 55 12.5%
  • Valvoline

    Votes: 18 4.1%
  • Pennzoil

    Votes: 71 16.2%
  • Mobil

    Votes: 122 27.8%
  • Pure Gaurd

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Lucas

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • Redline

    Votes: 16 3.6%
  • Other

    Votes: 62 14.1%

  • Total voters
    439

M-Sport fan

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[wink]

Well, you cannot go WRONG with any name-brand full-synthetic in 5w-20. I would not throw rocks at anybody for preferring Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, etc. But, if you wanna split hairs - and let's be real here we love our cars so we're going to split hairs - there are several specifics to consider when it comes to oil choice.

First and foremost (for me) is the NOACK (mass loss/volatility) of the oil. This is the oil's tendency to "bake off" under high temp. The lower the NOACK score, the better. This has obvious benefits in regards to the PCV system and contamination of the intake valves on our direct-injection, turbocharged engines. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum has a 6.6% NOACK score, whereas all of its common competitors are >10%. Even AMSOIL Signature has an inferior 7.6% score. But, this is just one thing to consider.

Next, the viscosity - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum leans toward the lower end of the viscosity range for its ratings. Yes, 5w-20 (and others) are not a singular, set-in-stone viscosity rating. Leaning toward the thinner end of the spectrum makes for better cold starts, performance, and potentially fuel economy (although I would argue that this last point is negligible and your driving style has such a larger impact as to render this moot), but being on the lower end of viscosity makes the additive packages that much more important (more on this in a moment). If you have a high-mileage engine, you'll want to opt for a thicker oil, preferably a high mileage specific oil. High mileage oils will lean toward the higher end of viscosity for their rating and will also have seal conditioners that will swell your old seals to prevent leaks.

Now, additive packages. IMO this is also where Pennzoil Ultra Platinum shines. Pennzoil UP has a higher-than-average content of Zinc, Phosphorous, Calcium, and Boron, an average content of Titanium and Molybdenum, and a lower-than average Sodium and Magnesium content. I won't go into detail on the specifics of each except to say that Zinc has fantastic anti-wear properties for your bearing surfaces. If you believe that our 1.6l EcoBoost engines prefer a high Titanium content, then by all means go for the Kendall Liquid Titanium/Motorcraft full synthetic, as they have the highest Titanium content that I have seen, but are fairly typical in every other regard.

The next thing you want to consider is "high temperature high shear" or HTHS. HTHS is the ability for an oil to perform under extremely harsh conditions inside an engine by maintaining viscosity under very high temperature and high friction scenarios. Finding specific HTHS ratings for each oil is a bit tricky, but the cliffnotes on this is that the higher the rating, the better. Pennzoil UP has a 3.1 HTHS rating, as best I can figure. This is one rating where it is actually beaten by some other oils, likely because it is on the thinner end of its viscosity rating. For instance, Mobil 1 has a 3.5 HTHS, if I recall. How much does this matter? Well, it's kind of a ballpark figure and is something for you to decide. Thicker oils will generally have a superior HTHS score, so bear that in mind. It is also worth noting that government regulations pushing for lower viscosity oils and better fuel economy and emissions are causing HTHS ratings to lower across ALL oils and oil companies.

For me, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum checks enough boxes to make it an easy go-to choice.

And for the record, no, I am NOT sponsored by any oil company. But if any are reading this, hmu bb [wink]
MOST excellent write up! [twothumb]
 


XR650R

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[wink]


And for the record, no, I am NOT sponsored by any oil company. But if any are reading this, hmu bb [wink]
If I were an oil company, I'd give you a job.

EXXON! You own the entire western hemisphere. HELLOOOO!!!!
 


TDavis

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Brand of oil will always be a can of worms. Just like on one end you like Pennzoil. My father stays away from Pennzoil and Quaker State as hes rebuilt numerous engines that ran that oil. Was the oil the problem? No idea, but it was the common denominator.
 


Jerickson88

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Brand of oil will always be a can of worms. Just like on one end you like Pennzoil. My father stays away from Pennzoil and Quaker State as hes rebuilt numerous engines that ran that oil. Was the oil the problem? No idea, but it was the common denominator.
I’m not picky. If you’re changing at 3k, I don’t think it really matters anyways. For the record, I made a resolution to only use the Motorcraft oil and filter in my car. My Tahoe runs Castrol conventional and AC Delco filters. The dodge I had used castrol and Mopar Filters. My F150 ran Supertech oil and filter from 278k-300k never had an issue while I was using that stuff.

We use Mobil Special at work (Toyota Forklifts)

I’ve never understood the Royal Purple gimmick.

I’ve also heard Havoline is top tier stuff. Can’t believe people use Quaker State over it lol
 


Quisp

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Brand of oil will always be a can of worms. Just like on one end you like Pennzoil. My father stays away from Pennzoil and Quaker State as hes rebuilt numerous engines that ran that oil. Was the oil the problem? No idea, but it was the common denominator.
Back in the day both those oils were high in paraffin. M sport could probably elaborate more .
 


TyphoonFiST

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Back in the day both those oils were high in paraffin. M sport could probably elaborate more .
Pennzoil was and still is based on paraffinic crude oil....virtually all oil manufacturers use paraffinic base stocks when making just about everything from wax...gasoline...to grease and oil itself. They all will dewax the oil and end up with a premium base oil. The sludge is from people who never changed their oil on time....or just poor lubrication design by the engine engineers/designers.

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TyphoonFiST

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No BITOG threads I Agree! It's like an STD....it just spreads like crabs through a Frat house on Homecoming!





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TyphoonFiST

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Lookin' at you, Chrysler 2.7l V6. [chair]
Don't even get me started on that product of a syphilitic abortion due to a Pygmy grudge f#ck of an abomination by Chrysler!




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danbfree

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There are so many good oil choices these days, even for DI engines specifically... I use either Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum or Quaker State Ultimate Durability depending on what deal I can find at the moment, but all of those can be found for $20-25 on special and I just use the larger FL400S Motorcraft filter for $4 from Walmart and change every 5,000 miles. To each their own, but with DI engines, I feel changing every 5k miles with a GOOD quality major brand synthetic is better than changing it every 7,500 with a boutique brand that costs twice as much.
 


TyphoonFiST

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There are so many good oil choices these days, even for DI engines specifically... I use either Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum or Quaker State Ultimate Durability depending on what deal I can find at the moment, but all of those can be found for $20-25 on special and I just use the larger FL400S Motorcraft filter for $4 from Walmart and change every 5,000 miles. To each their own, but with DI engines, I feel changing every 5k miles with a GOOD quality major brand synthetic is better than changing it every 7,500 with a boutique brand that costs twice as much.
I agree!





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Last edited:

Ford ST

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Lookin' at you, Chrysler 2.7l V6. [chair]
After having to do a timing chain and water pump on that engine it was my last straw. After I finished that job I decided working at a shop wasn't for me. I just cannot stand working on junk.

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M-Sport fan

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To each their own, but with DI engines, I feel changing every 5k miles with a GOOD quality major brand synthetic is better than changing it every 7,500 with a boutique brand that costs twice as much.
ABSOLUTELY! [thumb]

But then you have the OCD insanos like myself who change even their 'boutique' oils (and expensive filters) every 3500 to 4000 miles, regardless of that practice being labeled abjectly 'wasteful' by many. [wink]
 


M-Sport fan

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Paraffinic oil base or chlorinated paraffinic oil? I'm not very well versed in the history of what blends different companies used, but from my (admittedly layman) understanding, a paraffin oil as a base is not a bad thing - it has extremely good antioxidation properties. It's chlorinated paraffins that you should NOT have in your oil. A lot of "oil additives" claiming reduced friction and "increased horsepower" will contain chlorinated paraffins (or even worse - PTFE/teflon particles! [xx(]) because they DO reduce friction but chlorinated paraffins will break down with heat cycles and cause excess wear and corrosion. You may as well pour bleach into your engine, to put it bluntly. This is ESPECIALLY harmful in diesel engines, so you can find a few truckers that are severely pissed off at additive companies if you search around. From what I understand, nonchlorinated paraffinic oil bases were used in virtually ALL conventional oils, and may still be used to this day.

As a side note about additives - Motorkote is controversial in some online trucker and motor oil communities because some people claim that it contains chlorinated paraffins while the Motorkote company claims that it does not. AFAIK, Motorkote is the only additive company (or one of the very few) that has not been sued by the federal government, so take that as you will. But, uh, this is not a thread about additives, so I'mma shut up.
ANY of the chlorinated compounds used in many of the 'snake oil' additives can (and WILL) turn acidic/corrosive in an internal combustion engine's oil system environment.
As will an overdosed, crazy sky high level of ZDDP (one of the reasons PURE racing oils are not suggested for street use, along with a lack of any detergents/dispersants for the most part, in most of those oils).
 


danbfree

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ABSOLUTELY! [thumb]

But then you have the OCD insanos like myself who change even their 'boutique' oils (and expensive filters) every 3500 to 4000 miles, regardless of that practice being labeled abjectly 'wasteful' by many. [wink]
On a high boost DI car only changing more often than 3,000 is flat out wasteful, probably just marginal returns between 3,000 and 5,000, but that's definitely your choice. It's not like we just dump oil down the drain any more, it's easy to put out at the curb for recycling and if in an apartment, auto parts stores will take it for free ... But as far as filters, not sure I've seen any that do a better job than the Ford one, the specs all seem to be the same on any of the decent ones, but i'd like to see more about premium ones.
 


M-Sport fan

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Haha, yes - chlorine is for pools, mops, and laundry. Not for your car! [nono]

Although I had thought that ZDDP (zinc dithiophosphate) was "only" beneficial - creating a protective layer that protects against wear during dry starts, and acting as an anticorrosive and antioxidant, with the main drawback being that it can be harmful to catalytic converters and contribute to pollution. Are you sure it turns corrosive? Or were you referring to high concentrations of it poisoning catalytic converters? [confused]

Also D'OH I said I would shut up about this. [smackbum]
Since ZDDP is a compound (of which some at least is) always found in the additive packs of all modern engine oils, it is NOT a BITOG additive subject only (although it yes, IS sold as a stand alone/blended additive as well), so you are 'safe' discussing it. ;) [thumb] LOL

I was referring to STUPID HIGH concentrations (like well over 3500 ppm) of ZDDP turning acidic in the crankcase of street driven cars, over long OCIs, and mixing with major blowby/fuel dilution/rich running scenarios.
But yes, IF it gets past rings/valve stem seals, and burned in the combustion chamber, it WILL 'poison' the catcons first and foremost (the main reason WHY it's allowable levels were greatly reduced in modern oil specs, like from unlimited/~2500+ ppm back in the API SC to SF spec days, down to about 800 ppm MAX currently for the SN/SN+ specs).
 


M-Sport fan

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There are a few channels on YouTube that have filter teardown videos and discuss the differences, pros, and cons of each brand. The important thing is to use ones with silicone antidrainback valves (silicone lasts longer, and the valve helps prevent drystarts), a decent bypass mechanism (helps prevent oil starvation in a worst-case scenario), and a filter media that, uh... filters (this is pretty much all of them). Unless you're doing long OCIs, pretty much ANY filter is going to do the job so long as it fits on there.

"Racing" filters will usually allow for more oil flow at the expense of filtering extra-small contaminants, and premium filters will usually cram more filter element material in there (more pleats = more surface area).

The only filters that I think suck and should be avoided are FRAM Extra Guard, since they have a basically non-functional bypass spring and cardboard caps on the ends of the filter element. The higher-tier FRAM filters are fine.

I also stick with Motorcraft filters. Cheap, fits, does the job just fine.

It is mainly the base, orange Fram Extra Guard filters that are to be avoided at all costs (the proverbial "orange can of death"), since yes, as stated above, the Fram ULTRA is a GREAT filter, on par with the Mobil One and Amsoil EaO, as well as other long drain, 'premium' oil filters.
Their Tough Guard is also a decent filter as well.

I change them out so often/low mileage that yes, I might just go back to the good old, <$4.00, FL-400S standby as well in the future (using the Amsoil EaO right now).

One cannot go wrong with any of the Wix/NAPA Gold filters, or any others on that level of quality/filtration either. ;)
 


M-Sport fan

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Ah, okay, thank you. Always good to learn something.

I would say that the market for such high-zinc oils are the types that aren't even running catalysts to begin with, start with fresh oil every other race, and do regular rebuilds anyway. So that shouldn't be an issue except for the guys out there that are running race-spec oil on their daily because... reasons.
Yes, it is the oils, some of which tell you right on the bottle to NOT use them for more than a 2000 mile interval, which still have these insane levels of ZDDP, along with almost NO detergents/dispersants, (to help prevent oil foaming/aeration, although some inexplicably still retain very high calcium levels), like; Mobil One RACING, Red Line RACING (straight weights), JGD RACING, etc.
 




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