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Hid buzzing noise

DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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#1
Installed euro lights and morimoto hid with relay harness today.

Took it for a drive and they are buzzing like crazy. Once driving it would stop for a minute but come back and so on. I didn't notice any flicker.

I am assuming it's the relay harness.

What do you guys do, relay or no relay and if you have a relay do you use some sort of capacitor to get the buzzing to stop?

I've looked around and found a YouTube video from diode dynamics but it's a few years old and the capacitor they recommend in the video isn't available. I didn't quite know where to go from there. Looks like Retrofit Source has a similar capacitor but before I go buying anything I wanted to see what yall do.

Thanks.
 


OP
DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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Well i removed the relay harness. After reading everything I could find its a toss up if it's really needed or not. I prefer to have it for peace of mind. But for now everything works and I can always mess with it in the future. Just need to get them dialed in, drivers side is too low and passenger side is too high.

I read that's how they are supposed to be in Europe?
 


danbfree

danbfree

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DangerMouse said:
Well i removed the relay harness. After reading everything I could find its a toss up if it's really needed or not. I prefer to have it for peace of mind. But for now everything works and I can always mess with it in the future. Just need to get them dialed in, drivers side is too low and passenger side is too high.
I read that's how they are supposed to be in Europe?
Click to expand...
So which harness are you talking about? I ordered the Depo Euro replicas and only ordered an H7 complete HID kit. I haven't heard of any additional harness necessary for HID's themselves, only the one to make the DRL work in low/high properly.

As far as aim, they should be level from left and right, they have the ECE cutoff, hopefully like the middle one

 


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DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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They do look like the one in the middle. Little low still. But not enough to where I have messed with them.

I had installed the relay harness from retrofit source that came with the hid kit. It bypasses the stock wiring to pull power directly from the battery. I had to remove the relay harness. They work fine without it and after talking to retrofit source, they said it should be fine without it. They said if the bulbs dont turn on I would need the relay harness and the extra anti flicker capacitor link. Normally I try to do things the proper way but in this case, they work as is so I'm just gonna leave it. Hopefully I don't run into issues down the road.
 


danbfree

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DangerMouse said:
They do look like the one in the middle. Little low still. But not enough to where I have messed with them.

I had installed the relay harness from retrofit source that came with the hid kit. It bypasses the stock wiring to pull power directly from the battery. I had to remove the relay harness. They work fine without it and after talking to retrofit source, they said it should be fine without it. They said if the bulbs dont turn on I would need the relay harness and the extra anti flicker capacitor link. Normally I try to do things the proper way but in this case, they work as is so I'm just gonna leave it. Hopefully I don't run into issues down the road.
Click to expand...
Oh, we don't have CANBUS, so no worries about running any special harness or anti-flicker anything, just not an issue at all luckily on our cars!
 


danbfree

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DangerMouse said:
They do look like the one in the middle. Little low still. But not enough to where I have messed with them.

I had installed the relay harness from retrofit source that came with the hid kit. It bypasses the stock wiring to pull power directly from the battery. I had to remove the relay harness. They work fine without it and after talking to retrofit source, they said it should be fine without it. They said if the bulbs dont turn on I would need the relay harness and the extra anti flicker capacitor link. Normally I try to do things the proper way but in this case, they work as is so I'm just gonna leave it. Hopefully I don't run into issues down the road.
Click to expand...
As far as aiming, you have that one hex adjustment for vertical, if you can't get it dialed in you can either buy/rent/borrow a Euro headlight switch to wire in once temporarily so the leveling motors can level them or upgrade the projector and have them as close to level as possible there. I haven't done a projector upgrade myself, but if you have the OEM Euro's, forget it, they are perma-sealed while TYC and Depo use butyl which can be heated to split. I have my Depo's arriving soon, can't wait to try them out!
 


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DangerMouse

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danbfree said:
As far as aiming, you have that one hex adjustment for vertical, if you can't get it dialed in you can either buy/rent/borrow a Euro headlight switch to wire in once temporarily so the leveling motors can level them or upgrade the projector and have them as close to level as possible there. I haven't done a projector upgrade myself, but if you have the OEM Euro's, forget it, they are perma-sealed while TYC and Depo use butyl which can be heated to split. I have my Depo's arriving soon, can't wait to try them out!
Click to expand...
Do you know how to wire in the euro leveling switch? I have been searching like crazy for that.

I know we don't have canbus but with the daytime running led strip, I guess that's what causes the relay harness to buzz.

I have the oem ford euro lights, I do not plan to modify them.

I am stock piling parts and will be doing a bunch of work in a few weeks, and will mess with aiming the headlights then.
 


danbfree

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DangerMouse said:
Do you know how to wire in the euro leveling switch? I have been searching like crazy for that.

I know we don't have canbus but with the daytime running led strip, I guess that's what causes the relay harness to buzz.

I have the oem ford euro lights, I do not plan to modify them.

I am stock piling parts and will be doing a bunch of work in a few weeks, and will mess with aiming the headlights then.
Click to expand...
I do know that we HAVE to use a Euro headlight switch to get them to level, there is no other way to do it electronically as we don't have the wires in our harness nor the controller itself. There is info about this towards the end of the harness thread I believe. But all you have to do is use the hex key for the vertical aim, it's the horizontal that's a bitch without taking them out.
 


Last edited:
danbfree

danbfree

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DangerMouse said:
Do you know how to wire in the euro leveling switch? I have been searching like crazy for that.

I know we don't have canbus but with the daytime running led strip, I guess that's what causes the relay harness to buzz.

I have the oem ford euro lights, I do not plan to modify them.

I am stock piling parts and will be doing a bunch of work in a few weeks, and will mess with aiming the headlights then.
Click to expand...
So yeah, since we don't have Canbus we don't need a relay at all fortunately! So need for one to begin with, and yeah, LED's can cause buzz so don't want to introduce by adding the relay harness you don't need... I've been searching too, I know there is discussion on one of these threads about using the Euro switch, let me know if you find it!
 


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