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Question for those that have the Ford ST200 box

CarGuy

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#41
I did drilled a 2 1/4 (correction from my 2 1/2 that I thought it was earlier) hole at the bottom of the air box and stopped at that point (I should of made it a 2 inch hole instead)I like that I do not have to snake the hose around underneath. The ST200 setup looks better, but I have yet to see a comparison in performance between the often derided “hack job” hole and the ST200. Maybe it’s more noticeable with modified cars.


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My point was that Ford could have easily done this and called it good and put it in the ST200 but didn't. There must be a engineering reason that they changed the whole lower box as opposed to drilling a hole in the existing stock one which would have been way cheaper if it offered the same results.

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#42



Do you think will be possible to add it as the picture attached? I would like to keep both SS3 Fog Lights and use the ST200.
Are you willing to release the plastic fog cover complete?
I'd really like to see what Ron has to say about this, because this would be the exact setup I want.
 


Quisp

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#43
I'd really like to see what Ron has to say about this, because this would be the exact setup I want.
That could work better if it clears the windshield washer reservoir than the fog light placement does.

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Fiestig

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#45
I customized my stocker airbox. Sanded the airbox outlet opening giving about 1/4" more flow from box and added 2.5" side hole and silicone hose I had on hand that feeds from the fender under the headlight. I moved the main harness by the headlight and the washer resevoir. With a green filter, it feels and sounds much much better compared to other intakes I have tried. Not bad for the whole cost of $0. Plus... No california smog concerns.. Yaya
 


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#46
I customized my stocker airbox. Sanded the airbox outlet opening giving about 1/4" more flow from box and added 2.5" side hole and silicone hose I had on hand that feeds from the fender under the headlight. I moved the main harness by the headlight and the washer resevoir. With a green filter, it feels and sounds much much better compared to other intakes I have tried. Not bad for the whole cost of $0. Plus... No california smog concerns.. Yaya
pics
 


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#48
So has anyone actually performed any testing? Let's see it.
Saw this thread and it caught my attention as I have recently spent some time sorting through this. I thought I’d share.

First and foremost, Ron is awesome (Whoosh), if you are looking for something new, you should buy from him unless he doesn’t have it. I wish I had done a bit more research prior to my 1st few purchases. I will always use Ron unless he doesn’t have it or I want to make it myself. He carries a wide variety and is bound to have options that maximize value/performance for individual preference.

With Covid19, I’ve had a lot of time at home, a lot of time to fiddle with my car, and a lot of time to respond here for those that want to read take the time to absorb this.

Beware, written portion is a lengthy summary, the visual attachments may be enough for many…
 


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Capri to ST

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#49
This is a great write-up, very thorough, thanks for taking the time. I have the Mountune air box which came with the MP215 kit. My understanding is that this is identical to the ST200 box, except that it's made out of metal instead of plastic. I believe that Ron had confirmed that somewhere in this or another thread.
Just for clarification, since your pictures show that you designed an ST200-type box, would all the good news that you are reporting for lower intake temperatures and pressure loss and therefore higher performance apply to the factory ST200 box and therefore to the functionally identical MP215 box? That seems to be what you're saying, but I just thought I'd be sure.
Thanks again for your time doing this.
 


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#50
This is a great write-up, very thorough, thanks for taking the time. I have the Mountune air box which came with the MP215 kit. My understanding is that this is identical to the ST200 box, except that it's made out of metal instead of plastic. I believe that Ron had confirmed that somewhere in this or another thread.
Just for clarification, since your pictures show that you designed an ST200-type box, would all the good news that you are reporting for intake temperatures and therefore performance apply to the factory ST200 box and therefore to the functionally identical MP215 box? That seems to be what you're saying, but I just thought I'd be sure.
Thanks again for your time doing this.
Short answer: Yes.

Some detail and feedback.

I just took a look at the Mountune, and have just done some further reading through some other ST200 box chatter (I'm new to the forum). Someone posted that Ford & Mountune worked together on this box, that seems very plausible, and makes sense. I wouldn't debate that they look the same, they do.

From the photos, the only difference I see between the ST200 and Mountune is the material used for the lower box. They both utilize the OEM upper cover with a drop in, and the stock upper cover has a bell mouth entrance, that's critical to entrance loss, same reason all jet engines have a bell mouth entrance, what racers call a "velocity stack." There will be some very small difference in heat transfer into the air due to the bottom of the box being different materials, they have different heat transfer coefficients (like drag coefficient). I know Ron has called the Mountune an oven. However, I'd be willing to bet you wouldn't see the difference in the Temp rise in a back-to-back test. The intake air flow rate is dominant, as you can see Temps drop as RPM increases, or with time increase at low speed. I expect the difference would be within run to run variability. Especially steady-state or soaked/cruising, maybe a small difference transiently. And like I mentioned, when cruising at lower speed, the Temp rise is really low, typically within 5F, unless it's really hot and the road is hot, etc., even then still within 7-8F. I was stoked when I first got the secondary circuit plumbed to the fog light bell mouth, took a spin and watched Intake temp on the AP3!

I would be very happy with the ST200 or Mountune. I'm not fully aware of what's out there, but these designs are going after exactly what they should be, and is why with my background I got there in a matter of minutes after taking my lower box out and seeing the min area feeding the box!!! Great idea to draw ambient air, but too restrictive.

I got lucky... I got the Cobb last Nov. I understand stock class concerns, and stealth, but that's in my past. The Cobb is a great design on the upper half, has a bigger filter with a bigger bell mouth entrance, so velocity is down a bit, lowering loss. It also has a single piece induction and crossover all 3". With the lower box mod, or the ST200 lower, I'd bet it's the best. However, I wouldn't be surprised if the loss is only marginally better than a ST200 or Mountune. That's the pressure piece. Temperature-wise I expect them to all be a wash.

I do recommend plumbing to the fog light, with a bell mouth entrance. It provides some Ram, and sucks 100% ambient air. The fender well is not a bad option (I'd still do a bell mouth in there on the end of the hose), but no Ram and it will see some temp soak above ambient. I wouldn't go without a hose, I showed those results. Even the type of hose will make a small difference. I used some plastic 2.5" vacuum hose as I was mocking up the config. Good for testing, but not a great final choice, terrible flow path. The silicone brake duct is the best I found, and cheap on ebay.

I think there may be similar configs out there that are similar performers, but I honestly don't think you can do better than these. I'm done with my intake, I think it's fully optimized.
 


Capri to ST

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#51
Thanks, that's what I was hoping and expecting to hear. You are correct that Ford and Mountune worked very closely together in developing the original MP215 tune and air box in 2013. In a review of the ST200 in Car magazine which I read it said that they had collaborated to to such an extent that according to the ST200’s program chief, intellectual property rights remained with Ford. This allowed it to easily implement a similar strategy of intake and software mods with the ST200 which was developed later, in 2016.
The Mountune MP215 tune and airbox were also Ford warranty approved through the 2016 model year.
 


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M-Sport fan

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#52
^^^What few realize is that Mountune was the exclusive engine builder, and power train supplier to the works Ford World Rally Team from the first Ford turbo WRC cars, right up until Malcolm Wilson moved the whole engine program in house, to his company M-Sport, now the official Ford WRC builder.
 


DoomsdayMelody

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#53
My point was that Ford could have easily done this and called it good and put it in the ST200 but didn't. There must be a engineering reason that they changed the whole lower box as opposed to drilling a hole in the existing stock one which would have been way cheaper if it offered the same results.

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I think it’s called money. They can charge you more for a modification that looks like stock and offers no significant benefit over stock. Not that I’m judging anyone I got the mountune one that’s made out of aluminum after I discovered that the plastic lower box on my car had the threads stripped out of the screw holes. Plastic threads seeem like a bad option for longevity, which is why I went with the aluminum lower box.


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M-Sport fan

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#54
I got the mountune one that’s made out of aluminum after I discovered that the plastic lower box on my car had the threads stripped out of the screw holes. Plastic threads seeem like a bad option for longevity, which is why I went with the aluminum lower box.
This is one of the reasons I want to get the ST200 box to replace the factory one, as the screw hole closest to the intake tube is completely stripped out. [:(]
 


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#55
Saw this thread and it caught my attention as I have recently spent some time sorting through this. I thought I’d share.


Beware, written portion is a lengthy summary, the visual attachments may be enough for many…
I know I am late to the party on this, but this is one of the most fantastic posts I have seen on this board. Excellent work✔️
 


TyphoonFiST

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#57
Did the whole bumper cover have to come off in order to install this?
It can be done with bumper still on vehicle. But it is more cumbersome. So I d just take the whole bumper off for easier access.

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#59
Did the whole bumper cover have to come off in order to install this?
When I did the mod, I just pulled the headlight for access. Jack stands on the front, or jack/stand the driver side to get underside access. It may actually be better to have the nose on to get the proper routing considering the proximity of the windshield cleaner tank. I used 2 90 deg silicone elbows to route ducting away from the tank.

Here's a couple photos taken when I was installing the TB bar and Treadstone FMIC. The silicone elbows can be had on ebay for $7 each. These aren't necessary, but will provide a more efficient turning than routing the 2.5" flexible duct straight to the fog bellmouth (minimizes pressure loss). I used 2.5" thin-wall clear plastic tube (Amazon) to couple to the 2.5" duct shown in the 2nd photo. Even the flexible duct will make some difference on loss. I prefer one with a fairly smooth ID, not something like a plastic vacuum hose. I got the duct off ebay, separate ID material yields a pretty smooth ID flowpath.
 


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#60
Thank you for the further description and the photos. It is likely that I may shamelessly copy your arrangements :) When I looked under this area the other day, it does look pretty tight with the windshield washer tank (so I worried about hose kinking/tight bends), your approach seems to solve that nicely.
 


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