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What did I do wrong? (Slave Cylinder)

OP
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Thread Starter #21
Good catch, yeah you can't use a fidanza with a stock clutch disc. I didn't read his first post thoroughly. Op you need a sprung disc for that flywheel.

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Is it a must to run a sprung disc with a single piece flywheel? I know the engagement will be much harsher with the solid disc and 1 piece flywheel, but besides that and the extra wear that will cause on the transmission what is the reason not to do this? is this something with the Fiestas that running this combo just doesnt work? BTW I have to say thank you again to everyone on here. This has been one of the most helpful group of people on a message board i've run across.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #22
The original flywheel was probably okay. I'm not sure why so many people change the flywheel when they do clutch jobs
I have always at least resurfaced flywheels when i put in a new clutch and the couple machine shops ive used in the past do not have the right equipment to resurface the dual mass flywheels. Thus the reason for a new one. I would have bought a new stock one, but everywhere i check it 30+ days to get one.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #23
Prior car had a reservoir that like this one, was divided by spillway. The clutch reservoir (tiny back corner of it) would be bone dry but the reservoir itself would still appear plenty full. If I hadn't cut my hair off, I would've been pulling it out trying to bleed that thing. Once I figured out what was happening, I just resolved to keeping the reservoir tippy-top full the entire time I bled and after loosing an hour, was pretty much done in like eight minutes. Soaked up the excess fluid out of the reservoir with paper towels.
LOL Im pretty sure this would have fixed my problem considering that the original slave wasn't leaking. Figures. Ive bleed that damn thing so many times, over half a gallon of break fluid.... I just hate the fact these new cars that are made with so much F*ing plastic everywhere!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
Thanks for posting all of this. It will be a good resource for others as it seems this problem is going to be cropping up more-and-more. Sorry about the install mishap.

Didn't you say you had the old clutch parts that didn't seem to be worn out? Could you possibly use the original disk(even if its just until you get a replacement)?

Is the clutch disk still solid even though you are using a Fidanza? I know the stock flywheel is dual mass, but typically the Fidanza is solid and then "usually" you have a sprung disk. Of course you can run a solid disk on a solid FW (I pulling from memory bank when I ran in DSM and FWD SR20 realm) but can be tricky to modulate.
on the Galant VR-4 i had back in the day i was running an ACT 2600 pressure plate with an un-sprung 6 puck Kevlar/ceramic disc, stock single piece flywheel . I actually really enjoyed that set up. left calf is still an inch bigger then my right 20 years later. lol
 


Intuit

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#25
The original flywheel was probably okay. I'm not sure why so many people change the flywheel when they do clutch jobs I have actually never replaced a flywheel in my life. Even when I worked in a shop we didn't replace the flywheel. If it was damaged yeah we would but they never were damaged, and they are so darn expensive.

Just my personal opinion but yeah never a problem on any car I have done a clutch job on which is a few. Ford escort, Nissan 240, Nissan Maxima, Chevy S10 just to name a few.

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Time after time after time after time aft.... I've been bitten by needlessly replacing good parts... that this was another time.

Not having a machine shop open on Sunday, I REPLACED the flywheel. (big mistake) Got everything back together, tools put away, cleaned-up, basically ready to go. Cranked up the vehicle and immediately thought I was on a coin-operated bed at a cheap motel. The whole car was gyrating like you wouldn't believe. The "new" crap-a$$ flywheel was flukcing off-balance. First thing the Tuesday morning, (businesses closed for Monday holiday,) I called the shop to make sure they still had my original flywheel there. Another half-day of the following weekend was spent removing the "new" crap, and reinstalling my original flywheel.

Couldn't wait a few days for a machine shop to get-around to machining it so installed it right back in unaltered. Original isn't warped anyway. To add insult to injury, my clutch was fine and never needed to replace any of to start with. The OEM six-spring Daikin disc with somewhere between 170 and 230k was just as thick as the four-spring replacement I'd bought. The whole affair was on a self mis-diagnosis. D'oh! Live and learned...
 


Intuit

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#26
........... Figures. Ive bleed that damn thing so many times, over half a gallon of break fluid....
Having already gone through the supply on the shelf in the garage, I did have to go buy another bottle. Once I got through a small portion of that I just stopped adding fluid. It was only when fluid nearly stopped coming out during the bleed, that I followed the hose from the master cylinder, to the back of the reservoir, and shined a light on that back corner while looking *HARD*. That's another one of those times you'd consider going Sarah Connor on the engineer LoL...


EDIT: In this day/age of crazy folk with keyboards and weapons one must say it and MEAN it... *THE ABOVE WAS SAID IN COMPLETE JEST*... don't do that... really... don't do that. It's a movie reference... FICTION... let it stay FICTION... reality need not imitate art LoL...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
Hey guys, Just to give everyone an update. This weekend we replaced the slave cylinder, pressure plate and clutch disk (installed the correct direction this time) and everything seems to be working great. Very little clutch chatter with the solid flywheel, and its really not any more difficult to take off from a stop then before even with an un-sprung clutch disk. Thanks again for everyones input and I hope this thread can keep someone else from making the mistake we made.
 


Intuit

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#28
Have you noticed a slightly rougher feel on acceleration?

DMFs aren't cheap. The manufacturer added that (potential failure point) in there for some reason.
Direct-injection four cylinder engines supposedly have a chattery output. The DMF may have been added to help smooth that out for the long-term benefit of the transmission and also driver feel.
 


Last edited:
OP
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Thread Starter #29
Have you noticed a slightly rougher feel on acceleration?

DMFs aren't cheap. The manufacturer added that (potential failure point) in there for some reason.
Direct-injection four cylinder engines supposedly have a chattery output. The DMF may have been added to help smooth that out for the long-term benefit of the transmission and also driver feel.
I haven't noticed anything different durring acceleration. But I haven't really gotten on it either.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#30
Is it a must to run a sprung disc with a single piece flywheel? I know the engagement will be much harsher with the solid disc and 1 piece flywheel, but besides that and the extra wear that will cause on the transmission what is the reason not to do this? is this something with the Fiestas that running this combo just doesnt work? BTW I have to say thank you again to everyone on here. This has been one of the most helpful group of people on a message board i've run across.
The sprung part of the Clutch disc or DMF absorbs NVH and prolongs Clutch disc and friction plate life.
 


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#31
Check the hard line going to the slave cylinder and verify the o ring is still on it. Also there should be a metal clip holding this onto the tranny. Verify all parts are installed correctly, I think your issue is that hard line.

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I just did a clutch replacement on mine. But it seems to leak from that line, I cannot seem to find a replacement or part number for that line? Would you know by chance?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#32
I just did a clutch replacement on mine. But it seems to leak from that line, I cannot seem to find a replacement or part number for that line? Would you know by chance?
Here ya go....I bought 3 cause they were uber cheap. This seal is what could be missing*


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Intuit

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#34
If it's pushing out fluid, it's probably sucking in air too. Wonder whether that could be relevant to some of clutch pedal stuck to the floor issues? Then again, with air in the system that result would probably be more consistent; not intermittent... I think.
 


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#35
If it's pushing out fluid, it's probably sucking in air too. Wonder whether that could be relevant to some of clutch pedal stuck to the floor issues? Then again, with air in the system that result would probably be more consistent; not intermittent... I think.
could be a bubble in the line that only gets to the pedal when the fluid is heated up (and therefore thinner)

It can happen with brake fluid, particularly on bikes.....don't ask me how I know:LOL:
 




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