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Need advice. First SCCA track day in Topeka, KS.

TDavis

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#1
I like to think I already know what I must know for a first track day but I'm sure that is not the case as I'm a novice with track days and I'm the type to want as much advice as possible for my first track day.

I have been to the Gateway road course on my motorcycle but lets he honest, motorcycles are more "track ready" out of the box then most economical cars.

I may be attending the track day at Heartland Motorsports Park in Topeka, KS hosted by SCCA and just wanted advice.

I wanted to get brake ducting, BBK, oil cooler, and upgraded rad but I know they say to feel out the car at your first track day so that you know what you'll need and what can improve rather then just getting all the shit you need before you have even done a track day.

For clarification here is my mod list:

Mods:

Performance:
-Thermal R&D 3" cat-back
-GFB DV+ Diverter valve
-Cobb V3 AP
-Stage 2 93 tune currently
-Velossa Tech BIG MOUTH intake(Black body with Nitrous Blue flare)
-RAMAIR filter
-Upgraded Whoosh Intercooler


Suspension, wheels, & tires:

-Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s 17x8 et38mm High Power Silver(4lbs lighter per corner)
-MeisterR Coilovers
-OEM 205/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3s
 


alexrex20

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#2
Flush your brake fluid and put in a high quality fluid. That's really all you need. Slow in, fast out. And slow is fast. Turn ESC off completely and go slow, and I promise you'll be faster.

Monitor your coolant and oil temp on your AP.

Oh, and I like to add water wetter to my coolant. Adds a few degs of cooling.

Your tires will get slick when they get hot. Slow is fast!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 


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#3
You may also want to look into a slightly more aggressive brake pad. The stock pads are fairly good for a stock car but on a track you will experience some fade as they heat up.
 


codestp202

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#4
Pads and fluid are first. Next you're going to overheat either oil or coolant. A bigger rad / oil cooler are well worth it.

If no extra cooling can be done, dump your coolant and run 90% distilled water /10% coolant with water wetter.
 


OP
TDavis

TDavis

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Thread Starter #5
Flush your brake fluid and put in a high quality fluid. That's really all you need. Slow in, fast out. And slow is fast. Turn ESC off completely and go slow, and I promise you'll be faster.

Monitor your coolant and oil temp on your AP.

Oh, and I like to add water wetter to my coolant. Adds a few degs of cooling.

Your tires will get slick when they get hot. Slow is fast!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Yeah my oil temp/coolant will be 2 of the thing I'll be monitoring.

I know to keep the ECT COMPLETELY off as well so I don't roast the pads even more.

You may also want to look into a slightly more aggressive brake pad. The stock pads are fairly good for a stock car but on a track you will experience some fade as they heat up.
Pads and fluid are first. Next you're going to overheat either oil or coolant. A bigger rad / oil cooler are well worth it.

If no extra cooling can be done, dump your coolant and run 90% distilled water /10% coolant with water wetter.
I won't be able to acquire the oil cooler/rad for this track day, it is definitely on the list though. But upgrading pads and fluid can be done. Any recommendations?
 


codestp202

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#6
Yeah my oil temp/coolant will be 2 of the thing I'll be monitoring.

I know to keep the ECT COMPLETELY off as well so I don't roast the pads even more.





I won't be able to acquire the oil cooler/rad for this track day, it is definitely on the list though. But upgrading pads and fluid can be done. Any recommendations?
Fluid: Motul RBF660 or Wilwood EXP600 Plus
Pads: Hawk DTC60 for the front, something a bit less aggressive in the rears.

Mountune also sells a set of branded pads that are made by Winmax which would be fine for your situation. Rs-r are good up to 800 degrees, get the RS-T if you'll be pushing it hard.
Wow they are MAJORLY on sale for the RS-R:
http://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Front-Brake-Pad-Set-Fiesta-2011-p/7064-bpf-a1.htm
http://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Rear-Brake-Pad-Set-Fiesta-ST-2013-17-p/7064-bpr-a1.htm
 


OP
TDavis

TDavis

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Thread Starter #8
Fluid: Motul RBF660 or Wilwood EXP600 Plus
Pads: Hawk DTC60 for the front, something a bit less aggressive in the rears.

Mountune also sells a set of branded pads that are made by Winmax which would be fine for your situation. Rs-r are good up to 800 degrees, get the RS-T if you'll be pushing it hard.
Wow they are MAJORLY on sale for the RS-R:
http://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Front-Brake-Pad-Set-Fiesta-2011-p/7064-bpf-a1.htm
http://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Rear-Brake-Pad-Set-Fiesta-ST-2013-17-p/7064-bpr-a1.htm
The brake fluid can be done for sure. I've been searching around and people have said OEM pads do fine with upgraded fluid. I'm sure that depends on the track but if OEM pads work well I wouldn't mind using them. The track is the Heartland Motorsports Park roadcourse for reference. My car is brand new with only 4k miles on it.

Run your heater on high w/ vents blasting out your open windows, this will help bring down the coolant temps a bit.
Will do, since I think windows down is required for track days.
 


Pete

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#9
If you have the time, that the front bumper off and remove the bottom part of the grill that is covered. I used a grinding wheel to do so, others have used sand paper or dremel's. Also for the track day if you do not have to worry about freezing temps, drain your coolant for purified water with 2 bottles of royal purple ice or water wetter. Or at least have a lower percentage of coolant vs water ratio in the radiator. You will want track pads, like what Mountune sell's (not the cheapest but easiest to source), as well as some high temp fluid. Then just enjoy the car on track. Everyone drives different and it will depend on the weather but keep an eye on the coolant temp on the accessport, and run a 10w-40 weight fluid versus the 5w-20. The oem temp gauge doesn't move pas the middle line until you go past 235 and then you have almost overheated. Just remember to have fun see how the car handles how you feel and then get the next thing you feel the car needs. Sometimes you just need more driver time before getting more go faster parts.
 


codestp202

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#10
If you have the time, that the front bumper off and remove the bottom part of the grill that is covered. I used a grinding wheel to do so, others have used sand paper or dremel's. Also for the track day if you do not have to worry about freezing temps, drain your coolant for purified water with 2 bottles of royal purple ice or water wetter. Or at least have a lower percentage of coolant vs water ratio in the radiator. You will want track pads, like what Mountune sell's (not the cheapest but easiest to source), as well as some high temp fluid. Then just enjoy the car on track. Everyone drives different and it will depend on the weather but keep an eye on the coolant temp on the accessport, and run a 10w-40 weight fluid versus the 5w-20. The oem temp gauge doesn't move pas the middle line until you go past 235 and then you have almost overheated. Just remember to have fun see how the car handles how you feel and then get the next thing you feel the car needs. Sometimes you just need more driver time before getting more go faster parts.
Hey Pete, I switched to 5w-30 over 5w-20. Do you have any data to suggest we should be moving to 10w-40?
 


codestp202

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#11
The brake fluid can be done for sure. I've been searching around and people have said OEM pads do fine with upgraded fluid. I'm sure that depends on the track but if OEM pads work well I wouldn't mind using them. The track is the Heartland Motorsports Park roadcourse for reference. My car is brand new with only 4k miles on it.



Will do, since I think windows down is required for track days.
Sorry, IDK who said stock pads are okay for track because they def aren't. I glazed my stockers over at autocross. If you are a decent driver you will wreck your stock pads and possibly go off track. I would 100% get some better pads so you don't have to worry about it. You can swap them back and forth between track and street.
 


OP
TDavis

TDavis

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Thread Starter #12
If you have the time, that the front bumper off and remove the bottom part of the grill that is covered. I used a grinding wheel to do so, others have used sand paper or dremel's. Also for the track day if you do not have to worry about freezing temps, drain your coolant for purified water with 2 bottles of royal purple ice or water wetter. Or at least have a lower percentage of coolant vs water ratio in the radiator. You will want track pads, like what Mountune sell's (not the cheapest but easiest to source), as well as some high temp fluid. Then just enjoy the car on track. Everyone drives different and it will depend on the weather but keep an eye on the coolant temp on the accessport, and run a 10w-40 weight fluid versus the 5w-20. The oem temp gauge doesn't move pas the middle line until you go past 235 and then you have almost overheated. Just remember to have fun see how the car handles how you feel and then get the next thing you feel the car needs. Sometimes you just need more driver time before getting more go faster parts.
Will do. I just want to enjoy it and test out the car on an actual track.

Sorry, IDK who said stock pads are okay for track because they def aren't. I glazed my stockers over at autocross. If you are a decent driver you will wreck your stock pads and possibly go off track. I would 100% get some better pads so you don't have to worry about it. You can swap them back and forth between track and street.
It was actually a thread you created. [MENTION=6197]eddietorr[/MENTION] was one of them who mentioned using stock pads.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/13569-Do-I-have-enough-pad-for-a-track-day
 


codestp202

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#13
Will do. I just want to enjoy it and test out the car on an actual track.



It was actually a thread you created. [MENTION=6197]eddietorr[/MENTION] was one of them who mentioned using stock pads.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/13569-Do-I-have-enough-pad-for-a-track-day
Yeah, I wrote that thread before my first track day. And even going with EBC yellow's I was able to work those pads to the far edge of their limits on my first day out.
I would be interested to know what time's everyone is doing on oem pads because if you're taking it easy, sure oem pads can last; but any hard abuse I would not trust them. I've come off of a session and shot my front rotors with my temp gun and it consistently reads over 800 degrees and that is after driving a bit not being on the brakes. Depends on the track though, some tracks are much easier on brakes. I am also using brake cooling ducts btw. It is cheap insurance to buy better pads and swap them after a track day. You will ruin you day and possibly ruin your car if you try to run stock pads and glaze them.

You make the call, but if you're going to do more then one track day, just get good pads...
 


Pete

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#14
Hey Pete, I switched to 5w-30 over 5w-20. Do you have any data to suggest we should be moving to 10w-40?
At least here in California with how hot our temps get and they rarely go below freezing we don't need to oem rating. The fiesta is a very hot running car (radiator is the main problem). But the turbo as well runs very hot, having that 40 weight helps with oil separation especially with running on track for 30 minute sessions or more. Summer time I run 50 weight if tracking due to the extreme heat we get. The focus rs for example runs a 50 weight as well because it is more designed for track use. Whereas the fiesta market is more for daily driving and canyon carving (marketing wise).
 


codestp202

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#15
At least here in California with how hot our temps get and they rarely go below freezing we don't need to oem rating. The fiesta is a very hot running car (radiator is the main problem). But the turbo as well runs very hot, having that 40 weight helps with oil separation especially with running on track for 30 minute sessions or more. Summer time I run 50 weight if tracking due to the extreme heat we get. The focus rs for example runs a 50 weight as well because it is more designed for track use. Whereas the fiesta market is more for daily driving and canyon carving (marketing wise).
I don't plan on going up to 50 weight, but I will think about 10w-40. Who's 10w-40 are you running? I am using Royal purple 5w-30
 


Pete

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#16
Royal purple as well, HPS. On a stock turbo I think 10w-40 is perfect. If you were tracking with a hybrid turbo I would do 50 weight. Our climates are pretty similar. How is the cage?
 


codestp202

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#17
Royal purple as well. HPS on a stock turbo I think 10w-40 is perfect. If you were tracking with a hybrid turbo I would do 50 weight. Our climates are pretty similar. How is the cage?
Really good. Thanks for sending over that paint code. 6Pt and Hans is great on track. Feel safe and the chassis is nice and stiff.
 


alexrex20

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#18
Slow in, fast out, and turn off the ESC. Stock pads work fine as long as you're smooth and don't overdrive every corner. The engine will overheat before your brakes.

As long as you don't have the shitty stock pads that come with cars with all-season tires...

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OP
TDavis

TDavis

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Thread Starter #19
Slow in, fast out, and turn off the ESC. Stock pads work fine as long as you're smooth and don't overdrive every corner. The engine will overheat before your brakes.

As long as you don't have the shitty stock pads that come with cars with all-season tires...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
The summer tire cars had different pads?
 




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