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Aftermarket head units?

Based

Senior Member
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Nope
#1
Has anyone found a way to use an aftermarket head unit on this car? I need 4v pre outs and I'd like to just replace the HU instead of using a DSP or converter.
 


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Glendora
#2
I think the whole infotainment system is too integrated into the computers yo remove. If i were to attempt an aftermarket system, without a processor , i would prolly just mount a single DIN HU in the glovebox and run new independent wires everywhere.

Sent from the Canyon's Edge
 


Messages
229
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45
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Brunswick
#3
[MENTION=5632]Based[/MENTION]

I just did an entire factory integration system in mine, and it sounds AMAZING (I believe I may be the only member on this forum that has a complete factory integration). Yes, it is more expensive because you have to buy a $600+ DSP (I was able to find a brand new one for $350), but it's totally worth it and you get to retain all the sync/steering wheel and NAV functions. I had an aftermarket head unit and system in my 2011 Fiesta SE, and it's just ugly with the dash kit that they made. Essentially you'll just have a dead LCD screen up top that displays the time. The rest of the screen is non functional. See below image.





Here are some images of my setup. I'm replacing the 2 12 inch subs with 3 ten inch subs in a custom box and adding a battery backup in the trunk.





Brand new speakers in all doors




One amp for the subs, one amp for the speakers, and the DSP
 


OP
B

Based

Senior Member
Messages
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Thread Starter #4
[MENTION=5632]Based[/MENTION]

I just did an entire factory integration system in mine, and it sounds AMAZING (I believe I may be the only member on this forum that has a complete factory integration). Yes, it is more expensive because you have to buy a $600+ DSP (I was able to find a brand new one for $350), but it's totally worth it and you get to retain all the sync/steering wheel and NAV functions. I had an aftermarket head unit and system in my 2011 Fiesta SE, and it's just ugly with the dash kit that they made. Essentially you'll just have a dead LCD screen up top that displays the time. The rest of the screen is non functional. See below image.





Here are some images of my setup. I'm replacing the 2 12 inch subs with 3 ten inch subs in a custom box and adding a battery backup in the trunk.





Brand new speakers in all doors




One amp for the subs, one amp for the speakers, and the DSP
Nice man! Yeah I'm gonna get a DSP. What did you get? I'm looking at the JL Audio FiX 86.

Do you think an 8" could fit in the doors?


Right now I just have one Sundown SA-12 on a Pioneer 1200 watt amp using a Walmart Scosche converter.
 


Messages
229
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Location
Brunswick
#5
[MENTION=5632]Based[/MENTION]

Actually, it's lady =P

I don't know a whole lot about car audio, I had my friend who is highly experienced do all the work and give me all the hardware options I could go with. I went with the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 DSP ($600 new, but I found it on eBay for $350 brand new) It has an unlimited number of options. You can plug it into your laptop and do all of your equalizer settings right there. You can adjust each speaker input. It's pretty incredible, but I just left it at what he tuned it to because I feel like I'll screw it all up lol.

I kept all speakers at the recommended 6.5. I'm not sure if 8 inch speakers would fit in the door, since our doors are pretty small. You would have to take it apart and look. The speakers I got are pretty beefy, and they actually fit perfectly. My friend was afraid he would have to cut the door up to get them in. I also bought some new tweeters, but they were too big to fit into the factory position without cutting up the door. So when I get my new subs installed, he's going to fabricate the tweeters into the pillars.

This is the site he directed me to for my speakers and amps. You might want to check it out. It's not too bad on pricing and it's quality stuff.

https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/
 


Last edited:
OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #6
[MENTION=5632]Based[/MENTION]

Actually, it's lady =P

I don't know a whole lot about car audio, I had my friend who is highly experienced do all the work and give me all the hardware options I could go with. I went with the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 DSP ($600 new, but I found it on eBay for $350 brand new) It has an unlimited number of options. You can plug it into your laptop and do all of your equalizer settings right there. You can adjust each speaker input. It's pretty incredible, but I just left it at what he tuned it to because I feel like I'll screw it all up lol.

I kept all speakers at the recommended 6.5. I'm not sure if 8 inch speakers would fit in the door, since our doors are pretty small. You would have to take it apart and look. The speakers I got are pretty beefy, and they actually fit perfectly. My friend was afraid he would have to cut the door up to get them in. I also bought some new tweeters, but they were too big to fit into the factory position without cutting up the door. So when I get my new subs installed, he's going to fabricate the tweeters into the pillars.

This is the site he directed me to for my speakers and amps. You might want to check it out. It's not too bad on pricing and it's quality stuff.

https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/
Oh lol my bad. Hahaha.

Yeah from what I've been reading, the 360.3 is one of the more complex DSP's out there.

What does your battery idle at? Mine is weird. Some times it's sitting at 14.4, sometimes it's at 13.8, then some times it's at only 12.6 volts. I have one of my Accessport gauges on the Battery Voltage and even while I'm driving it just fluctuates randomly. It'll be at 13.5 for a while and then randomly jump to 14.4, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


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Brunswick
#7
Oh lol my bad. Hahaha.

Yeah from what I've been reading, the 360.3 is one of the more complex DSP's out there.

What does your battery idle at? Mine is weird. Some times it's sitting at 14.4, sometimes it's at 13.8, then some times it's at only 12.6 volts. I have one of my Accessport gauges on the Battery Voltage and even while I'm driving it just fluctuates randomly. It'll be at 13.5 for a while and then randomly jump to 14.4, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I totally forgot we could monitor just about anything with the Accessport. I will have to add that gauge to mine and see what I'm getting. My dash lights will usually dim and sometimes the radio because of how much power is flowing through my car. That's why I want an extra battery so I don't have to worry about mine dying. I usually have my volume at 10, and that's super loud. My friend said my max is 25 and I'm like yea, I don't think I will ever play my music that loud lol.
 


OP
B

Based

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Thread Starter #8
I totally forgot we could monitor just about anything with the Accessport. I will have to add that gauge to mine and see what I'm getting. My dash lights will usually dim and sometimes the radio because of how much power is flowing through my car. That's why I want an extra battery so I don't have to worry about mine dying. I usually have my volume at 10, and that's super loud. My friend said my max is 25 and I'm like yea, I don't think I will ever play my music that loud lol.
Lol 10? Shit I play mine at 23 - 25 depending on the song. I find that 24 is right before distortion for most songs.

I want a higher output alternator but no one seems to make one for the 1.6L engines we have. I will keep looking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


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Brunswick
#9
Lol 10? Shit I play mine at 23 - 25 depending on the song. I find that 24 is right before distortion for most songs.

I want a higher output alternator but no one seems to make one for the 1.6L engines we have. I will keep looking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Trust me, 10 is LOUD. Keep in mind I have all new speakers and a DSP. The new speakers are 5 times louder than the factory speakers.
 


OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #10
Trust me, 10 is LOUD. Keep in mind I have all new speakers and a DSP. The new speakers are 5 times louder than the factory speakers.
Ah ok then that's really good then!


I'm watching an auction on eBay for a good DSP right now. Hopefully I can get it. Idk if I will be able to hook the stock speakers to it but we will see. I'm hoping I can just get this DSP, then run the stock door speakers on it and my sub and then go from there. I think the next step after the DSP will be upgrading the door speakers.
 


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Location
Brunswick
#11
Ah ok then that's really good then!


I'm watching an auction on eBay for a good DSP right now. Hopefully I can get it. Idk if I will be able to hook the stock speakers to it but we will see. I'm hoping I can just get this DSP, then run the stock door speakers on it and my sub and then go from there. I think the next step after the DSP will be upgrading the door speakers.
I definitely recommend upgrading the door speakers. The stock ones are crap. Get some speakers with a good mid range and you'll be set.
 


Kazz

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Peoria
#12
If your dash lights are dimming, realize your headlights are too, if they're on.
 


antarctica24

Active member
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O'Fallon, MO, USA
#13
Has anyone found a way to use an aftermarket head unit on this car? I need 4v pre outs and I'd like to just replace the HU instead of using a DSP or converter.
Yep, I used the kit that everyone hates, to get around the dead screen I got the dash cowl from the standard fiesta and removed the screen. I think no matter what you do, you can never get the factory radio to sound right. You start with junk and you end with junk. Taking 2 volts into a DSP then upping the voltage does not do anything but add noise to the system. Im not taking anything away from MCCUMMINGS 182. He did his system the way he wanted to and is very happy with it and that is all that really matters. But I will say this, if you install a DSP and do not set the EQ settings from the factory back to zero with an Input EQ or something like a Fix 82 from JL Audio, Your just compounding the problem. If you think your system sounds good, you would not believe how much better it would sound if you got the curve back to zero before you started tuning on it with your DSP. I ended up using an Alpine head unit with the kit. With the Radio, satellite, antenna, wiring adapters, Kit, USB cables, MiniJack cable and install I am about $1000 deep in the install.
 


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