Buying parts (need a little advice).

It’s time to start modding (I’m leaving the 2016 Kona blue stock; I’m modding the 2017 Magnetic gray).

So far I have:

Green Filter (drop in). Installed
Cobb Filter (drop in). Backup
Boomba BOV adapter. Installed
Velossa Tech Big Mouth. Not installed yet
2014 OE shocks/springs. Not installed yet, but I’m hoping with the 2014 having higher spring rates, etc.- it’ll perform well with the 2017’s thicker front sway bar, and thicker rear torsion beam.


Parts/mods I’m purchasing:

Cobb Accessport w/ Stratified (stage 2) 91/E30 tune.
Whoosh intercooler. Purchased
FSWerks shift kit. Purchased
Cobb RMM.
Pierce Motorsports lower 2 point brace. Purchased.


Here’s my delimma: I was going to purchase Pierce Motorsports “street package.” It comes with a lower 2 point brace, upper strut tower brace, and a rear torsion beam brace. The reason I haven’t pulled the trigger on this is because I’m afraid the torsion beam brace could have a negative effect on the car’s rotation. I don’t want to lose the rotation; it’s part of what makes this car special.

I know I want to at least purchase the lower 2 point brace. I’ve considered the 4, and 6 point brace as well, but have decided against it for possible clearance issues if I decide to install lowering springs in the future.

Has anyone else lost the car’s ability to rotate after installing a torsion brace? Any advice on what I’ve written would be appreciated. Thank you.

I have had that same package for 2 years. I will start off my thoughts of the package with the lower 2 point. I am lowered and there have been a few instances where I have had a few strikes to the bar. So much so that the bar is no longer straight, but it hasn't effected anything. The strut tower brace is nice, but gets in the way when working around the area. It blocks part of the radiator overflow tank cap making it difficult to remove and you have to finagle the cover off to get to the spark plugs. These are things I don't mess with often, but when I do I just find it annoying. The torsion brace and I have a hard time getting along. It has worked loose a few times, and when it does, any turn or bump I hit the thing pops and creeks. I am debating on if I should keep it on as I am tired of trying to tighten it down. To get any tool and enough torque on the bolts you basically have to undo the shocks and lower the beam. The evap box and muffler get in the way if you don't. I haven't noticed any improvement, then again I have had them on for so long, it is hard to tell a difference. Maybe I will take them all off once my rear B8's come in and see if I can tell.

This helps; thanks for the insight.

My experience:

I put the torsion bar on first. I noticed a small improvement in normal driving, you can feel it just a bit, the way I'd describe it is the seats hug you more when you take a turn fast. Install is super easy and it's not in the way of anything. If I take a quick turn in 2nd gear and peg it, the back end slides out a bit but only a bit, then the car goes straight ahead mightily. If you don't like it, you can remove it in 2 minutes. In terms of working loose, that happened 3 times but I keep tightening it and it's been fine for a long long time now, so I wouldn't consider that an issue.

I put the front 2 point on next. Major difference, totally noticeable, especially in traction. Big help, must do. Easy install, no clearance issues with my setup, it has one dent from who knows what but nothing too bad.

Then I put the strut bar on. I got it used cheap so why not. Made no difference in street driving, maybe it would on the track I don't know. Like the other guy said, it's in the way, it looks bling but in retrospect it was a waste of money. Install isn't too bad as long as you're comfortable taking headlights/cowl off which is pretty simple.

I have all Pierce parts BTW. Hope that helps.

It does help; thank you.

Did you notice any difference/improvement with turn-in feel after installing the 2 point brace?

So, Jeff, would you say that its worth only doing the front 2 point only, and no torsion or strut bar? Have similar question for after I put on my mouton springs and B8s in a week or two...

I decided to just go with the lower 2 point brace for now.

I don’t know what year FiST you have, but the 2017’s torsion beam is 33% stiffer than the previous models. The front sway bar on the 2017 is also 33% stiffer, so you might like how it is with just the springs & B8’s.

Yes check my review on it, I give detailed thoughts on this part!

Unless you're track/autoX I say skip the strut brace. The torsion bar is so cheap and you'll notice a small improvement, i say get it.

Thanks, guys. I’m in a ‘16. Adding two point to my list.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, now that I’ve figured out the Pierce brace(s) I’m going with, I have to figure out what tune file types to order. I’m getting the free 91 flash tune, and buying the E30 tune as an add-on.

The way I understand it is: single file (or separate files?) means I’d have to reflash every time I switch between my 91, and E30 tune. And if I get a combo file I can switch the tune(s) on the fly. I’m I missing something?

Does anyone have any suggestions on what would be the best option for this? Thanks in advance.

I just got a Stratified tune recently so I can help. First, if your premium fuel is 91 octane, buy the 91 tune, but if it is 93 octane, buy a 93 tune. A 93 tune will give you better performance, but in some places like California, only 91 is widely available. Here in Ohio, it is all 93. With that said, I would highly recommend an E30 tune if you have access to E85 fuel near you. You achieve E30 by blending E85 and 93 (or 91). Stratified gives you a chart with guidance on achieving the E30 number. It is easy. It runs much stronger on E30 than on straight 93. Although it increases the cost of the tune, buy a single file combo tune, not multiple files. A tune file has up to 5 "slots," and you can switch among slots on the go with your cruise control buttons. If you buy multiple files, a new file must be loaded into the ecu via the AP each time you change files. This takes several minutes of sitting around and can only be done with the AP connected. You can switch slots on the go even if the AP is not connected. I bought a single combo file with a 93 slot, an E30 slot, a 93 eco slot with boost capped at 15 psi (which I use until the engine oil temp comes up), an E30 eco slot (15 psi boost cap), and a valet slot which limits rpms to 3000. Slot switching in a single combo file is the coolest stuff ever.

Very detailed. Thanks for your help, and time!

[MENTION=8493]apex1[/MENTION]

Thanks for your help. We only have 91, and E85 where I live, but I decided to add the 93 tune because it’s only an additional $15. So now I’ll have 91, 93, and E30 tunes.

Now I can’t decide if I should order Strat’s traction control as ON by default, or OFF by default. If it’s quick, and easy to turn off, I’ll just order it ON by default, but if it’s somewhat of a hassle, I’d rather order it OFF by default.

If anyone has experience with this option- please feel free to chime in. Thanks!

I’ve tried all these options with stratified. After about a week the TC becomes a pain to switch every time. If I were you I’d pay for both tunes and then decide which one you like and keep it loaded. In either case you can turn it on or off. I do think the TC is a must for these levels of torque. Iirc they have an option that limits torque in 1st and 2nd gear which makes the car far more driveable. I did that on my custom tune when I was stock turbo and it was way better than spinning tires every time I barely touched the throttle. People say you can control that with your right foot but with weather or cold tires or any other number of variables it is a very inefficient and inconsistent way to manage the over abundance of torque and resulting traction issues in the first two gears.

If you want PM me and I’ll send you my number and we can talk, it would be easier to relay info if you have more questions about all of these options.