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Boost surge? Leak? Where to start?

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#1
Hey guys! So i've had this issue intermittently since I purchased my 2017 FiST. Car was purchased used and it was apparent that the previous owner more than likely had removed some parts prior to selling. I noticed my cold side intercooler hose would come off from time to time and I would get the "Turkey Gobble" sound before losing boost, so I switched out the clamps and that seemed to fix the problem for awhile. When the problem occurred again I checked all my hoses and my intake and everything seemed to be fine, then this past week its been happening quite a bit where I will shift into 3rd or 4th and under moderate boost the same thing happens. Same sound and a loss of power. This evening I checked my clamps again and everything seems to be fine. I'm at a loss right now. Any suggestions? Currently my mods that might affect this are a Cobb Intake, Sound Symposer Delete and a GFB DV+. I'll be ordering new hoses and clamps soon, however I want to make sure this couldn't be something else completely. Thanks for your help!
 


D1JL

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#3
It is strange, I have heard of people having boost hoses coming loose.

I have never had this problem and I have tried many different hose configurations.
In fact I use WD40 when installing hoses, so they slip on easer, I also use worm type clamps.
I will admit that I use the overlapping type worm clamps so the worm teeth do not bite into the hoses.
Maybe I just tighten the clamps more than most do.


Dave
 


OP
T
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Thread Starter #4
Try using hair spray on the hose when you assemble them together. What types of clamps are you using? Are the boost hoses stock boost hoses? What's the mileage of the vehicle? [ridinghorse]
I tried the hairspray method and new worm clamps on the lower intercooler hose. It has been solid so far. The hoses are stock, I think I might switch them out however to see if maybe they are just worn. Mileage is 17k. Thanks for the response!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #5
It is strange, I have heard of people having boost hoses coming loose.

I have never had this problem and I have tried many different hose configurations.
In fact I use WD40 when installing hoses, so they slip on easer, I also use worm type clamps.
I will admit that I use the overlapping type worm clamps so the worm teeth do not bite into the hoses.
Maybe I just tighten the clamps more than most do.


Dave
I tried T-Bolt clamps and they didn't seem to make a difference. The worm clamps seemed to work well. The hose stopped coming loose, but it still feels like theres a loss in power and that surge happens now every time I accelerate after 2nd gear.
 


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Location
Portland
#6
Check the CAT (Charge Air Temp) sensor is tight. I had a TurboTransformer installed for a bit, and when it started to shit the bed it gave me symptoms similar to the noises you're hearing.
SoCal heat had started to warp the housing (of the TT) creating intermittent contact at some of the pins for the CAT sensor. It resulted in a loss of power, intermittent surging and turkey gobble. Once I removed the TT, and left the battery disconnected for ~10 minutes all was fine again
 


danbfree

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#7
Isn't "some" turkey garble a normal part of wastegate function? I know that loss of power isn't normal but on my tuned '17 with only 6k I get some turkey garble when letting off throttle, but I hold boost up to 26 psi just fine, only mod is drop in with cold air shroud cut out.
 


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#8
Some is normal, yes.

The more obnoxious "stu tu tu tu tu" isn't normal, however.
It may also be worth checking your GFB is oriented properly, and that the piston can actuate freely.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
Check the CAT (Charge Air Temp) sensor is tight. I had a TurboTransformer installed for a bit, and when it started to shit the bed it gave me symptoms similar to the noises you're hearing.
SoCal heat had started to warp the housing (of the TT) creating intermittent contact at some of the pins for the CAT sensor. It resulted in a loss of power, intermittent surging and turkey gobble. Once I removed the TT, and left the battery disconnected for ~10 minutes all was fine again
I'll check that out! Great suggestion!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #10
Some is normal, yes.

The more obnoxious "stu tu tu tu tu" isn't normal, however.
It may also be worth checking your GFB is oriented properly, and that the piston can actuate freely.
That is very similar to what I'm experiencing. It happened with both the stock valve and the GFB. When I turn the car off and back on it seems to reset itself till I get on it again.
 


danbfree

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#12
Some is normal, yes.

The more obnoxious "stu tu tu tu tu" isn't normal, however.
It may also be worth checking your GFB is oriented properly, and that the piston can actuate freely.
GFB DV+ was probably my next upgrade, I figured I'd push the stock DV for a while since I'm only at 6k miles... now here is where I'm a bit embarrassed, how does the wastegate, BOV and DV work together? A BOV one would have instead of a BOV, right? and the wastegate just dumps back to the intake box? And there are different mounting options for a BOV, if you get the symposer mount 50/50 one does that just leave the stock DV doing nothing and that's OK? TIA!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
Do you have an accessport, or access to some other scanner? Some codes may be set even without a light on
I do have an accessport however it was married to another vehicle when I purchased it. Long story, but I got a great deal. Can I still use it to run codes on my FiST?
 


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#14
[MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION],

Regarding the wastegate, see this link:
http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/blog/story/turbo-tech-101-what-is-a-turbo-wastegate-and-how-does-it-work

The diverter valve opens when letting off throttle, which then "diverts" any boost pressure left in the hoses back into the intake pipe. Behind your factory diverter valve, is a small, maybe 3/4inch slot machined into the compressor housing which leads back into the intake pipe. That's why you'll hear more "pssh" sounds with an open element air intake, and nearly silent or very muffled with closed airbox systems. Our FiSTs have an electronically actuated DV, but made of cheap plastic which is very brittle. The DV+ is an excellent upgrade to your factory DV, by replacing all the cheap plastic "guts" of the factory DV with high quality, machined metal pieces. see the video in the link below.

https://youtu.be/3EgXspDfI08

A blow off valve, or BOV, does not do any recirculation or diversion of boost pressure, it simply "blows off" to atmosphere, hence the naming convention.

Regarding the other mounting locations and BOV options:
- a 50/50 BOV/DV will vent 50% of the pressure to atmosphere, and divert 50% back into the intake
- a full BOV will vent 100% of the boost pressure to atmosphere
- Mounting a BOV in the symposer location is perfectly fine. The car will run just fine, however you'll need to install a block-off plate in place of the factory valve, as well as a CEL defender to bypass the factory electronically actuated solenoid. Ron@whoosh has all of these items :)
 


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#15
I do have an accessport however it was married to another vehicle when I purchased it. Long story, but I got a great deal. Can I still use it to run codes on my FiST?
Not sure if you can use it to simply run the codes, I've not dealt with OPP APs (sorry for the 90s hip hop reference)
Did you eventually have it unmarried, and then remarried to your car?
 


danbfree

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#16
[MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION],

Regarding the wastegate, see this link:
http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/blog/story/turbo-tech-101-what-is-a-turbo-wastegate-and-how-does-it-work

The diverter valve opens when letting off throttle, which then "diverts" any boost pressure left in the hoses back into the intake pipe. Behind your factory diverter valve, is a small, maybe 3/4inch slot machined into the compressor housing which leads back into the intake pipe. That's why you'll hear more "pssh" sounds with an open element air intake, and nearly silent or very muffled with closed airbox systems. Our FiSTs have an electronically actuated DV, but made of cheap plastic which is very brittle. The DV+ is an excellent upgrade to your factory DV, by replacing all the cheap plastic "guts" of the factory DV with high quality, machined metal pieces. see the video in the link below.

https://youtu.be/3EgXspDfI08

A blow off valve, or BOV, does not do any recirculation or diversion of boost pressure, it simply "blows off" to atmosphere, hence the naming convention.

Regarding the other mounting locations and BOV options:
- a 50/50 BOV/DV will vent 50% of the pressure to atmosphere, and divert 50% back into the intake
- a full BOV will vent 100% of the boost pressure to atmosphere
- Mounting a BOV in the symposer location is perfectly fine. The car will run just fine, however you'll need to install a block-off plate in place of the factory valve, as well as a CEL defender to bypass the factory electronically actuated solenoid. Ron@whoosh has all of these items :)
Great stuff, thank you! I just got myself confused reading too much... the wastegate just dumps unneeded pressure to spin the turbo to the exhaust and a DV is essentially recirculating BOV vs. VTA, the air the turbo DID use and is done with gets handled this way... thanks again for taking the time when I was kind of asking a dumb question to start with, hehe...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #17
Not sure if you can use it to simply run the codes, I've not dealt with OPP APs (sorry for the 90s hip hop reference)
Did you eventually have it unmarried, and then remarried to your car?
Haha nice. Dig the reference. No, I haven't just yet. That's probably the next thing I'll do after this hose situation is taken care of. I'll snag something to run the code and see if anything pops up. Thanks again for the help.
 


danbfree

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#18
I do have an accessport however it was married to another vehicle when I purchased it. Long story, but I got a great deal. Can I still use it to run codes on my FiST?
Oh no, that's the first thing you're supposed to do is make sure it is unmarried before you hand anyone cash for it, I'm almost positive it won't do jack squat for you. :(
 


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#19
Great stuff, thank you! I just got myself confused reading too much, a DV is essentially recirculating BOV vs. VTA, thanks again for taking the time when I was kind of asking a dumb question to start with, hehe...
No worries, I appreciated all of your input on my post regarding PNW 92 octane!
 


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#20
[MENTION=9617]Turdbo[/MENTION],

When you bought your car, do you know if there was a tune on it already? Its possible someone tore off all the parts but left an overly aggressive tune (for your mod level)
 


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