2016 OWNERS REJOICE! We can now slap on any dam intake we want!!!!

Contact = ipeterson@maperformance.com
Price = $40 shipped.

Like many of you here, I own a 2016 model and have had to cope with the limited options we have for an aftermarket intake. As far as I know, CP-E, Mishimoto and MAP are the only THREE intake kits that claim compatibility to our cars. I?ll be damned if I pay over $300 for such minimal gains. MAP is the only one under $300 but I?m not a fan of short ram, hot engine breathing cones on a stick. If I had ?14-?15 they?d be many more options, right? More importantly, I?d be able to take advantage of cheap used intakes as well! So what is a ?16 MY loser to do for an intake?

Enter the unadvertised MAP vacuum kit. This bit of hosery magic is included with their intakes. But unlike the greedy competition, MAP sells it separately!!! But would it work with another intake? Not being entirely certain I took the plunge. I live in the classifieds, checking it daily for ?giveways? and lo? and behold, a 2015 Mishimoto induction hose with Mountune drop-in for 60 bucks! And local! BOUGHT!



The MAP adapter arrives a few days later. I had watched the install video a few times and was aware of the bit of cutting that had to be done. Looked easy enough but since I wasn?t using their intake, I test fit the adapter to the Mishi before I started hacking things. There was an issue?The quick connect from the adapter wouldn?t fit over the Mish vacuum port. I pushed and pushed but no go. After some frustration, I counted to 10 and investigated. I disassembled the MAP connector and test fit the locking tab over the Mishi port. OK, it fits. I fit the MAP connector over the Mishi port without the locking tab as well, it also fit. So, WTF?

Turned out the Mishimoto vacuum port is pushed a little too deep into the silicon. This prevented the quick connect on the MAP adapter to fully seat.



I decided to take a blade to the Mishi silicon. If I had paid full price for the Mishi I might have hesitated, but since it was used I went to town. I cut it all the way back to the pinch clamp then pulled on the port to make sure it wasn?t loosened or compromised in any way.
Then reassembled the MAP connector and hoped for the best. Initially it fought. While it was close, the locking tab was an eyelash away from locking. So I squeezed the shit out of it and?.click. YES! I tugged and tugged on the MAP adapter to be sure it wasn?t gonna just pop loose. All good.

You can see in the background of the pic the two small rings of silicon cut from the intake. If you look through the connector you can see I cut right up against the clamp.



Crisis averted so I began to remove the vacuum connectors from the OEM accordion. Here is a wide a shot of the T-fitting that has to be cut.




I strongly suggest using a box cutter with a BRAND NEW BLADE. The OEM line is a HARD plastic. I started at it with whatever blade I had at the moment and it was a struggle. Slapped in a new blade and it was cake. I would even recommend heating the box cutter a lil to help get it started. It?s important because you don?t want to damage the T-fitting using tons of force with a dull blade!

You can slit it open just enough to pull it off the T-fitting connector.


Hose removed from T-fitting and ready for MAP love


The only real headache was removing the lower OEM vacuum connector from the lower IC pipe. I was shoulder deep into the engine bay and had to reach around the back side of it to release the green locking tab. Installing the MAP adapter is straight forward. The shorter end goes the intake, the side WITHOUT a quick connector goes to the T-fitting and the longer end reaches all the way down to the lower IC pipe.

And here is the completed install. The short end of the MAP adapter is a bit long so it loops up a bit but hasn?t rubbed on anything at all. 130 miles so far and NO CEL!!!! 90 miles of it hot dogging on the highway


Contact = ipeterson@maperformance.com
Price = $40 shipped.

Glad my tube went to good use lol!

Very nice! If I hadn't pulled on the trigger on the Mishimoto I would've gone this route with a different intake.

About time...definitely want to pick one of these up.

Great part and excellent installation write-up!

But remind me again why I would want/need to do this (a silicone intake tube vs. factory) besides for under hood aesthetic/looks reasons only?

Nothing neck snapping but spool comes on a bit sooner and stronger. At high rpm i can also feel less restriction as in it "hangs in there" a bit longer. Not necessarily more power but better power, if that makes sense....smoother and noticeably stronger but not moarrrr, ya know. There's no denying that OEM accordion is not the smoothest way to ingest air into our engines. In the end, my butt dyno feels a nice difference and that's all i really care about.

That being said, my plan was always to find a used intake. I was never going to pay full price for one of these things. They just aren't worth it to me. That's why this MAP adapter is so nice. It kicked the used intake market wide open for me and all 2016+ owners.

^^^OK, thanks!

I've never heard it explained that way before.

I have the 2014 FSWERKS intake with the MAP adapter. After 4 months of driving just fine with it, I finally got a P144C code yesterday morning. The FSWERKS intake induction hose is aluminum and all one piece, so I can't replace the induction hose part. I've seen other posts where people have used electrical tape on the ends of the adapter and it seemed to work. Other than that, I don't think there are any other solutions other than buying a whole new intake =/

[MENTION=41]mcummings182[/MENTION]

Notice that the shape of the OEM intake's connector...


...and the shape of mishimoto's connector are the same.


The connector on the FSWERKS intake is shaped very differently. It's cone shaped at the end where the OEM and Mishi are completely flat. I would bet that is preventing a good seal. Also, it's threaded. Maybe remove it & throw some teflon tape around it. Or perhaps FSERKS has an option for an OEM shaped piece?

I'm an idiot lol, I sent the wrong pic. The FSWERKS has the same little connector. I can't find a good picture of it and I can't take a picture of the one in my car because there's too much blocking it.

I'm not sure what to do at this point. Maybe I'll just try electrical tape on all the ends.

As a start, I would at least unscrew said connector and teflon tape the threads.