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Psa do not use motul in your fiesta st

danbfree

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#41
Oh and sorry for the late additional info. But I run the "Boomba Ultimate Shift Paackage" on full shift reduction and now with the heaviest Boomba shift knob. The knob helped drastically more then any fluid. Reason I give you this info is because this is also why am so picky to fluid types. I notice more then you stock shifter people do.


And in no way on God's earth do I blame this for internal bearing failure...but if you guys can. Enlighten me
Not talking about Motul, but having good fluid in general, whatever someone decides on: I just have a short shift plate and off-brand round shift knob and can say without hesitation the fluid is what made the most difference by far in actual shifting performance. Before I would miss and grind gears, even good shifts had a little crunch to them and of course the dual mass flywheel clutch clang... ALL gone now using Ravenol MTF-2.
 


danbfree

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#43
That could be just due to going with 2 liters over the 1.67 liters factory fill. When I went to 2 liters with the oem stuff, it got rid of that clack noise as well.
OK, fair enough on that point, but still just cannot recommend the Ford DCT fluid in a non-DCT gearbox. I can only recommend a full synthetic *gear oil* that meets the exact Ford spec and I've found that only Ravenol MTF-2 and MTF-3 does this. And as far as other full synthetic GL-4 gear oil out there, why stray at all from one that actually meets spec too with such a picky gearbox?

Although I highly doubt it was the Motul's fault in OP's failure, it is a fact Motul does NOT meet the Ford spec for our car. Unlike with even EXCELLENT motor oils that doesn't all meet exact Ford spec, our gearbox is very picky so why risk it? Also, even though there are a number of DCT fluids that do meet spec, I see no reason to use it at all in a gear box when there is actual gear oil available. Especially after seeing what nasty, grey and watery crap OEM fluid drained from my trans, I refuse to believe that provides proper protection for a gearbox. I truly wonder if Ford realized they had so much DCT fluid produced that they decided to use it for cost cutting purposes. Especially since the FiST came out a couple of years after the half baked DCT in the base cars it makes you wonder. Whether someone feels that is wild speculation or not, I dare anyone who hasn't seen the OEM fluid drained to try it and then honestly tell me that they think that would properly protect an actual gearbox. While the Ford DCT's are a "dry" clutch model, they still have their own characteristics to meet with fluid that does not apply to a manual gearbox.

The bottom-line is that Ravenol MTF-2 (75w80) and MTF-3 (straight 75w) are the only full synthetic gear oils that do meet Ford spec. If you use anything else at all then you can't be surprised if you have poor performance or failures. Nothing personal to anyone, truly, so if you are using something else and it works great for you, that's fine. But with such a picky gearbox I can't see anyone justifying recommending anything else at all that doesn't check off all the boxes: right type of fluid (gear oil), full-synthetic, and meets spec, which is WSS-M2C200-D2 for your searching pleasure. I am not a fanboi or stock holder of Ravenol, it's just in this case this is 100% clear cut what we should use and recommend to others.
 


Ford ST

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#44
That could be just due to going with 2 liters over the 1.67 liters factory fill. When I went to 2 liters with the oem stuff, it got rid of that clack noise as well.
I believe it. The extra amount of fluid probably covers everything up.
I wonder if He realizes a dry DCT transmission, and a standard manual transmission have very similar internals except for the actuators and such.
A wet DCT now that's different.
Ford fluid is apparently crap, but this brand here is fantastic and meets Ford specs?
Ford isn't going to put a destructive fluid in the transmission they did underfill it though.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 


Plainrt

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#45
Why is the ford fluid crap? More details on why its crap? I’m surprised Ford doesn’t know they are using a crap fluid.
 


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#48
Oh and sorry for the late additional info. But I run the "Boomba Ultimate Shift Paackage" on full shift reduction and now with the heaviest Boomba shift knob. The knob helped drastically more then any fluid. Reason I give you this info is because this is also why am so picky to fluid types. I notice more then you stock shifter people do.


And in no way on God's earth do I blame this for internal bearing failure...but if you guys can. Enlighten me
Just a heads up, a heavy shift knob doesn't actually improve shifting, it just masks what you can feel through your hand, and essentially puts more force behind every movement of the shifter.

Good for feel, bad for everything else.
 


FiSTerMr

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#49
Just a heads up, a heavy shift knob doesn't actually improve shifting, it just masks what you can feel through your hand, and essentially puts more force behind every movement of the shifter.

Good for feel, bad for everything else.
That has always been my take on heavier shift knobs.

Not a big fan of short shifters either, especially on this car. I think the gearbox was set up near perfect, straight from Getrag/Ford. [emoji87]
 


danbfree

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#50
That has always been my take on heavier shift knobs.

Not a big fan of short shifters either, especially on this car. I think the gearbox was set up near perfect, straight from Getrag/Ford. [emoji87]
I think the throw is a bit too long, nothing that a basic $60 short shift plate doesn't solve. I got one that was only $50 at the time (that is no longer being made) and the ~20% reduction makes it perfect to me. To each their own, but I can say after replacing it and having it out in my hand that the stock shift knob itself IS surprisingly well weighted already, the ball I got isn't much heavier at all. Also totally agree that you should take care of the fluid first before anything that would just cover up a bad performing trans.
 


Ford ST

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#51
That has always been my take on heavier shift knobs.

Not a big fan of short shifters either, especially on this car. I think the gearbox was set up near perfect, straight from Getrag/Ford. [emoji87]
I appreciate you saying that because I feel the same way I've never felt the need to change it.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 


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#52
...Or is it possible that some of these transmissions were doomed to fail because of a mechanical/component issue reguardless of what fluid was used? My trans went out at 78k. Same symtoms as most who reported transmission failures. To me it seems more likely that its a known issue/defect on some of these transmissions rather than a fluid causing the failure. Its kind of like saying don't run Motorcraft oil -it will blow your engine, but Amsoil won't. That said, taking into account there of course are a varying degree of performace specs/viscosities- but we are comparing well known fluids with a proven track record within a window of similar qualitiy/performance. [dunno]
 


FiSTerMr

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#53
...Or is it possible that some of these transmissions were doomed to fail because of a mechanical/component issue reguardless of what fluid was used? My trans went out at 78k. Same symtoms as most who reported transmission failures. To me it seems more likely that its a known issue/defect on some of these transmissions rather than a fluid causing the failure. Its kind of like saying don't run Motorcraft oil -it will blow your engine, but Amsoil won't. That said, taking into account there of course are a varying degree of performace specs/viscosities- but we are comparing well known fluids with a proven track record and a window of similar qualitiy/performance. [dunno]
Which fluid did you use and how much?
 


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#54
I used the standard Motorcraft fluid for about 70k then switched to Ravenol as a last ditch effort to see if it would cure the "whine". I had the whining sound since around 15-20k. It was very subtle and thought it was normal sounding as it did not increase in sound level and operated fine with no issues. Eventually the sound did start to increase in volume over time and decided to try the Ravenol. A few thousand miles later the whine was more like a grinding sound, also like marbles bouncing around. Noise was under load and went away if clutch was pressed in. Finally it was noise no matter what and got it to the shop before it stranded me. I had the trans and everything transmission related replaced. I used about 1.7 until I tried the Ravenol and just did the full 2.
 


FiSTerMr

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#55
I appreciate you saying that because I feel the same way I've never felt the need to change it.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
No prob.

Yeah, I never liked the idea of a short shifter... shorter throws means you need to exert more force (which is why some companies sell heavier shift knobs in tandem with their kits), which means increasing the chance of breaking shit.

Not to mention, makes shifts notchier.
 


danbfree

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#56
I used the standard Motorcraft fluid for about 70k then switched to Ravenol as a last ditch effort to see if it would cure the "whine". I had the whining sound since around 15-20k. It was very subtle and thought it was normal sounding as it did not increase in sound level and operated fine with no issues. Eventually the sound did start to increase in volume over time and decided to try the Ravenol. A few thousand miles later the whine was more like a grinding sound, also like marbles bouncing around. Noise was under load and went away if clutch was pressed in. Finally it was noise no matter what and got it to the shop before it stranded me. I had the trans and everything transmission related replaced. I used about 1.7 until I tried the Ravenol and just did the full 2.
PSA - Change over to a full 2L of Ravenol BEFORE your trans is already damaged... Mine had been whining and grinding very early on since new. I got the OEM fill out of there by 12k and very glad I did. Now at 18k have zero issues.
 


FiSTerMr

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#57
I used the standard Motorcraft fluid for about 70k then switched to Ravenol..... ......I used about 1.7 until I tried the Ravenol and just did the full 2.
That leaves open the possibility that being at 1.7 is what caused it.
 


TDavis

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#58
I'm at a little over 18k and my transmission is perfectly quiet. About to do a fluid change soon. I get the Ford fluid cheap but might switch over to Ravenol. I'll be interested to see how much fluid comes out of mine.
 


danbfree

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#59
No prob.

Yeah, I never liked the idea of a short shifter... shorter throws means you need to exert more force (which is why some companies sell heavier shift knobs in tandem with their kits), which means increasing the chance of breaking shit.

Not to mention, makes shifts notchier.
I'm referring to a short shift plate which simply shortens the throws by changing the pull angle of the cable under the hood a bit. It made no difference in effort or made it notchier at all, felt simply more precise. In fact some people have said that their Ford tech recommended them to help with shifting problems as it is notorious for having a bit long of a throw.
 


M-Sport fan

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#60
Just a heads up, a heavy shift knob doesn't actually improve shifting, it just masks what you can feel through your hand, and essentially puts more force behind every movement of the shifter.

Good for feel, bad for everything else.
Yeah, I actually actively seek out lighter than factory shift knobs, if that is a possibility (but then I've owned very few cable shifted, sport compacts/imports before this ride, so [dunno]). ;)
 




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