Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo

Yes, that was my car. Mitch did an awesome job with the installation. We came across a couple of snags along the way, (like the fact that this kit is not designed to be run with aftermarket charge pipes,) but Mitch did a great job of reaching out to let me know, and coming up with a solution that helped get the kit fit and onto the car as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The one thing, (other than wanting to change out the WGA,) that I plan on doing is swapping to a different intake. I'm using the Injen intake with a 2016 adapter, but honestly it sits a little high and occasionally bumps the washer cowl. :/ Not really the part's fault, but more so my fault.

I'll hold out for the WGA from Mountune so I can get the part for free, (thank you Mountune Rewards!~,) and get back with Mitch on having it installed. As I stated, I'll definitely try and get some dyno time scheduled to get an accurate and proven set of numbers for the kit as well. I have Vdyno numbers, and can post a couple of graphs between the stock turbo on Stage 3/E30 versus this one, if it helps anyone out any.

I'm having a difficult time understanding how aftermarket parts that mate to the oem turbo won't line up with an aftermarket turbo that works with oem parts... I have a Cobb intake and I would expect the MRX cold side to be situated exactly where the oem turbo is. If the oem parts were longer or shorter than my Cobb intake and Depo charge pipes, then they shouldn't fit. I gotta admit I feel a lil crazy right now as I can't wrap my ahead around how this is physically possible. Especially since we're talking about mountune here.

This could be a deal breaker for me. I hate to jury rig my shit. I'm sure the custom work done to make it match up was genius but I gotta think it negatively effects air flow a bit.

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I was wondering this as well... my CP-E intake bolts up to the stock turbo with no fitment issues, along with my charge pipe... so if the MRX works with stock parts, why would the aftermarket parts that fit to the OEM turbo not fit to something that is supposed to be a direct fit replacement (and utilizes OEM charge and intake). The only thing I can think of is more flexibility with the OEM plastic/silicone v. metal/hard plastic aftermarket. Although your Cobb intake is plastic, the stock intake seems more flexible.

Let me try to better explain. The cold side inlet for the turbo is in the stock position more or less. The outlet of the turbo that feeds the hot side pipe is 3" more to the passenger side. My hot side pipe lined up perfectly with my stock turbo. What they give you in the kit is a elbow and a hard pipe but not their early to connect from the pipe to the fmic. Mountune is expecting you to use the piece from the factory hotside pipe.

While the cold side inlet on the turbo is in the same location. My CPE cai didn't reach all the way down to the elbow provided by Mountune. According to Mountune their hot side pipe would. It is possible the Cobb would.

The issue with the intake was more that the only mount is really close to the filter and it is flexible, as opposed to stock/cp-e/others that mount on the valve cover. The flex in the silicone and not being mounted to the valve cover allowed the intake to move and hit the cowl cover. More so has to do with the intake design rather than the turbo itself. Changing from a rigid plastic stock turbo inlet to a silicone on the MRX doesnt help this though.

Even with my c39 and CP-E intake, the inlet to the turbo isnt 100% the same as stock, slightly raising the intake and not allowing it to bolt easily to the mounts on the valve cover. Slight change in dimensions in one spot will throw off everything connected to it.


Thanks for the Kind words though [MENTION=7210]L0W PSI[/MENTION]

Install Update,

I got Randy's initial tune loaded and I took the car out for the first drive.; The car fells very different. Now mind you this is the base "Check the car out tune" according to the cobb access port 11lbs of boost im getting 200ft tq. I really like how the car feels and how the power curve comes on. I want to note this was not the only thing that got swapped during this install.

The Exhaust also got swapped, and I also went from a catted dp to a catless dp. I am now using the Nexus Echaust. I normally do not like a loud exhaust, and whiile it is not the quiestest exhaust I have ever heard, at 60mph in 6th gear you almost cannot hear anything. At idle, you can hear it. It just sounds like a catless exhaust system, but I kinda like it.

Hopefully I will datalog my first file for Randy tomorrow, and then be on the 25lb tune which is currently in the 2nd spot, but I am not supposed to use that until Randy gives the go ahead.

If you are not aware, do not forget to prime the turbo. This is done by holding down the clutch and accelerator, at the same time to the floor and holding down the start button. The car wil fire up like it is trying to start, and then you take your foot off the accelerator and it starts right up.

So far, I have not had any issues with the install regarding me driving on the new turbo. Coolant performed as it should, Engine still sounds good, Car still does 100mph and feels really good getting there. I cannot even imagine what 275-300 is going to feel like. If the cobb access port is reading it accurately I am running at 11lbs of boost, and it will be tuned up to 29lbs of boost. Also remember my car has almost 177,000 miles on it.

I will keep you posted.

What are you going to do with the catted Dp? Is it factory or after market? If it's after market and you would like to sell it....lmk.[emoji869]

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Here's my video of a first start after a turbo upgrade for anyone's reference:

[video=youtube;3M1Gu8_HNy8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M1Gu8_HNy8[/video]

Holy shit batman. How long is your commute?? That's damn near x10 what I have on my 2014.

Hey Mitch not to thread jack, but curious how many miles you have on your C39?

pmed you so we don't detail the thread

In another thread (maybe your build thread?) you called this "priming the turbo".

Could it also be stated as "pressurizing the oil supply to the turbo shaft/bearings", or are you referring to something else?

Same thing. You need to supply oil to the turbo bearings before it spools and thus the starter turning over to turn over the engine / oil pump and make sure that the turbo is lubricated / primed before you start it.

So this is a first for me, so I thought I would share. This is my first run, after the turbo is installed on 92 oct, 63 degrees outside, and it is the base starter tune which if I understand correctly is WG boost only. Maximum boost was 11.08lbs. The torque numbers are reading differently than the Access Port Directly, but I dont know how much faith I am putting in the Virtual Dyno software as others have shown a way to manipulate the readings, but I thought it was interesting. I am waiting to be told I can move to slot 2.

This is running the MRX turbo
Catless Downpipe
CP-e Nexus Exhaust
CP-e CAI
MA Performance FMIC
MA Perforamnce 2.5 Inch Hot Side pipe
MA Performance 2.5 Inch Cold Side Pipe
BOV is mounted just in front of Throttle body on Cold Side pipe.

Bryan - set your smoothing to 3 and add your weight under Occ. Weight for a more accurate reading/baseline.

Looking forward to more results as you get your revisions!

Jeff, Here is a corrected dyno shot based on your recommendations. Thank you.

Get your AFR and Boost to show up using this guide:

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/17447-show-us-your-virtual-dyno.html

and the TLR version is 'Actual AFR (AFR)' and 'Boost Pressure (PSI)'.

Hey Antarctica, no offense or anything but I think the weight is still off. You went from 2700lbs to 3190 lbs. I doubt you weigh nearly 500lbs

LMAO, no offense their was two of us in the car. I wanted someone with me to start and stop the loggin so I could focus on the car and the road. We waited until 9:00 because it was like 63 degrees on the Plato here last night.

Lol. I feel silly. Never took that into account as a possibility. Carry on, nothing to
See here