OBD2 code P219A (Please point me in the right direction)

I'm still at work. Where I live it's 2:30 atm.


It is a cold intake that is about 2 feet long. After that it is the stock tubing all the way to the turbo, and stock to the intake manifold.


I would just go to a dealership for that. I'm concerned that they will tell me that my warranty is void.

Since it is a 2015, it should have the warranty until the end of the year, or end of year 2019.

I still haven't looked into that yet.

OK, if you REALLY want to keep what's left of the warranty then used ECU from a '14-'15 will get you where you want. If you bought an AP, it backs up your "factory" tune so in your case it would backup the one causing you issues... BUT, honestly if you just fix the Evap and run premium I think you'll be fine, since the only code is for the Evap disconnected... Reading abut the code more, you just need what is called the induction tube to plug the other one in, which the filter should be connected to and plug that loose evap cable into that. Literally, for $70 HERE and running premium you'll be fine and enjoying the car! You'll just plug that loose end into the little connection that splits off from the side of the main tube. The exhaust nosies you're talking about is just some natural pops and gurgles from having a no cat downpipe.

Fair enough. Ill definitely look into that, even though I'd rather have the cat, and I ordered it already, I am / was ready to replace each part mentioned in the P219A description of possible causes.

Ill be back home in a hour and a half. Ill post pictures then.

Thanks

The last two weren't very clear. There is a sensor of some kind attached to the underside of the air intake. That is what those pictures are of.

The last two weren't very clear. There is a sensor of some kind attached to the underside of the air intake. That is what those pictures are of.

If some of them are confusing, I can take more.

Thanks

Wait a second, you gave a dealership 15k for a used car and you think they laughed at you? then you are afraid to take it back because they will void your warranty? so you take it to a ''shop'' to look at it? then you are buying parts that the dealership should have installed before you drove off from the dealer that you gave 15k to? last question, do you have a moose or bear gun? J/K take that car back and talk to no one but the owner of that dealership and be nice to start and a lawyer to finish. don't touch the car or you will screw yourself big time. good luck Dennis

View attachment 19094
View attachment 19095

OK, so this looks like a MAF connector that normally needs to be connected to the intake... that dealership needs to own up to the fact they sold you a half-assed modded car that isn't done right, I'm sure there are laws against that shit up there too... Good luck!

OH, in pic 4 from the top, that air tube sticking up is for the sound Symposer fake sound thing that is common to be removed. The one I used said I could just remove that tubing all the way back to where it connects at the firewall... is there a "cap" straight down behind the radiator on the intercooler pipe there?

Edit: Actually you can still see it in place itself in the top middle of the first pic, that's kind of weird.. let me look closer... LOL

The paper work is fairly clear. The dealership has no warranty on it, it was bought as is.
Definitely a stupid purchase.
I already asked around, and what they did is not illegal, and there is no law to support me here.
The 24 hr period that the law gives me to return it passed over a week ago, and the dealership is not a Ford Dealership.
This car was a trade in at a different brands dealership.

I saw this car online beforehand, it didn't show any problems at the time I looked at it in person.

I could go back to the dealer that sold it to me, but other than the kindness of their hearts, I don't see any leverage to use.

Is that the round looking thing, or the black box looking thing to the right a bit?

You are under warranty and that code is for evap that has an even longer warranty under emissions, you should be covered at the dealer... Like you said, it runs good and that code is just for emissions, not a huge deal man, just take it to the dealership.

Here is that Symposer thing: View attachment 19098 View attachment 19099

So these two are just the sound symposer... it gives you the engine sound when you put a load on it... and you should have factory warranty, you know new cars come with a 5 year/ 100k km powertrain right? It also has a 7 year 120k km for emissions, if it follows the same guidelines as down here converted to Km's... Doesn't matter if the car changes hands 10 times.

Right, I get what you're saying. This is the reason why I ordered that Cat, and was thinking about the ECU and air intake.

Because the removed cat, and the modded ECU, this has a real chance of voiding that warranty.
If it didn't I would have just brought it into a ford dealership and told them to fix it.

This is also the reason why I sent it to a independent mechanic to do a diagnostic.
I didn't want to send it back for a diagnostic ( to the non-ford dealership I bought it from) for several reasons.


Truth is, Since I didn't do my due diligence, I'm aware that I'm drawing the short straw on this one.
The two dudes who sold it to me deserve a baseball bat to the shins, but legally I'm not on the best footing.

I'm going to take a second look at my legal options like I mentioned anyways.

Also, it seems like the engine is developing lifter tick as well.
If the legal angle fails, getting it back into a "warranty" condition is my best bet to avoid paying thousands more if that ticking gets worse.

So yeah, that's my motivation to buy more parts.