• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


Fiesta ST owners in the Portland, OR area ???

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#61
Silly me taking French in school. I'll tell you what, if I was gonna drive up to Montreal they'd hook me UP
LOL... Sigh... if I only knew my biological grandma sooner; she was born, lived and died in Montreal, one of the few people that embraced both the English and French cultures there. I'd love to be tri-lingual but gotta work on better Spanish first.. anyway, yeah, I'll bring it to work with me tomorrow and stop by there after work and see what they can do... and I'll post a video of the sound after.
 


dmb

Active member
Messages
553
Likes
213
Location
Seal Beach, CA, USA
#62
My Mom was a Martinez she grew up in L.A. in the 30's 40's 50's if the police caught you speaking Spanish they would deport you [operation ******* waterback [sic] look it up] so I never learned it. It was the secret language My Mom used on the phone that no one knew Pops included, but I knew when they were talking about me, Lucifer and El Diablo were my first Spanish lessions. Half the family changed their name to Martin [lots of fights] but the Martinez's won out when Affirmative action came along in the 70's and got great jobs, we had twice pipes on the cheep Homie don't you know me?
 


Messages
257
Likes
73
Location
Vancouver
#63
Curious to see (hear) how your exhaust turns out, Dan. I as well think the majority of aftermarket exhausts are too loud. I would love a slightly deeper tone and like a 2 dB increase in volume.
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#64
My Mom was a Martinez she grew up in L.A. in the 30's 40's 50's if the police caught you speaking Spanish they would deport you [operation ******* waterback [sic] look it up] so I never learned it. It was the secret language My Mom used on the phone that no one knew Pops included, but I knew when they were talking about me, Lucifer and El Diablo were my first Spanish lessions. Half the family changed their name to Martin [lots of fights] but the Martinez's won out when Affirmative action came along in the 70's and got great jobs, we had twice pipes on the cheep Homie don't you know me?
Wow, my partner is originally from Guatemala and she came here in the early '80's as a young girl but I had no idea it was that bad back then! I mean, c'mon, we all know the entire SW third of the country used to be Mexico, but after what happened to the Native population, you would think even in the 30's-50's that common sense would say "meh, they were here first, as long as they speak English too then who cares..." so yeah, wow, I had no idea!
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#65
Curious to see (hear) how your exhaust turns out, Dan. I as well think the majority of aftermarket exhausts are too loud. I would love a slightly deeper tone and like a 2 dB increase in volume.
Yeah, that's the plan for sure... so, OK, got the Symposer delete done, definitely tougher than I thought, had to run over to Harbor Freight and grab some long pliers to reach the clamp and until I found a small socket wrench I really struggled to get the new clamp tight, the damn PCV line is in the way and wasn't sure how to detach and move to the side without breaking it but got 'er done without going there.. but damn, with the sound gone suddenly I found myself driving much faster and I noticed it held boost a little better so time to get that glasspack on! I was an idiot and forgot that the stock muffler comes out in a dual opening so I can't reuse that dual tip with the single 2.25" exit the new muffler has so time to shop for a new tip... I'm impatient, especially with it so quiet now, I might even just buy a tip from the muffler shop.
 


Messages
341
Likes
166
Location
Lecco
#66
Yeah, that's the plan for sure... so, OK, got the Symposer delete done, definitely tougher than I thought, had to run over to Harbor Freight and grab some long pliers to reach the clamp and until I found a small socket wrench I really struggled to get the new clamp tight, the damn PCV line is in the way and wasn't sure how to detach and move to the side without breaking it but got 'er done without going there.. but damn, with the sound gone suddenly I found myself driving much faster and I noticed it held boost a little better so time to get that glasspack on! I was an idiot and forgot that the stock muffler comes out in a dual opening so I can't reuse that dual tip with the single 2.25" exit the new muffler has so time to shop for a new tip... I'm impatient, especially with it so quiet now, I might even just buy a tip from the muffler shop.
I agree with You!..I found many problems in symposer deleting..The first, as you wrote, was the clamp...positioned in a very unfriendly place, tight to reach and very tough to remove….then, if the Delete kit has not been correctly fixed, the air strenght will blow it off, setting up on recovery the engine control unit…(Think if hits a cyclist near the car..)
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#67
I agree with You!..I found many problems in symposer deleting..The first, as you wrote, was the clamp...positioned in a very unfriendly place, tight to reach and very tough to remove….then, if the Delete kit has not been correctly fixed, the air strenght will blow it off, setting up on recovery the engine control unit…(Think if hits a cyclist near the car..)
I went with the newer Whoosh kit where it's the soft silicon end cap, it feels very secure, glad I chose that option vs. others... https://whooshmotorsports.com/produ...sd-kit-silicone-symposer-delete-free-shipping
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#68
So, I have a TBP Traction Bar and the 2 side engine mount inserts to do and I haven't heard from the guy who said he would be down to host an install party this Sunday with the needed tools including breaker bar, jack, etc... Just exploring possible backup plans, anyone else down to get together to work on stuff? I just learned about Surgeline, a good shop near the Tigard/Tualatin/Lake O. border right off I-5 but can't afford to pay shop rates right now. I can even offer my place with a garage if someone has a breaker bar and a jack (I only have ramps), and I can even supply refreshments of your choice and muscle for any help with your own project. :)

Also, THIS tip is on the way for my glasspack, I think black will look good with my magnetic car, I'll be getting that put in on Saturday.
 


XanRules

Active member
Messages
527
Likes
240
Location
Portland
#69
The traction bar requires a huge breaker bar and/or impact wrench, neither of which I have, or I'd be down.

I have shifter bushings to do but they're such a pain in the ass to get to that I might wait until I do the engine/trans mounts to do those and then never have to fumble with that shit again.
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#70
The traction bar requires a huge breaker bar and/or impact wrench, neither of which I have, or I'd be down.

I have shifter bushings to do but they're such a pain in the ass to get to that I might wait until I do the engine/trans mounts to do those and then never have to fumble with that shit again.
Man, I wish I had the cash to just get the new very decent Harbor Freight impact wrench for $100, I'm gonna see if I can pull that off, but would also need the big torque wrench to get it torqued down to 115 ft/lb spec, so that's another cost, I only have the smaller cheap torque wrench... If you are talking about the bushings that go on the transmission side vs. the shifter itself, it's really not bad at all. I did a short shift plate right there and all you do is pull the battery and pull the battery box forward, even my amateur-ass managed to get to it *fairly* easily... Strangely enough, I got so much improvement from simply changing and putting in the right amount of gear oil that I can say that i'm gonna hold off on the shifter bushings for now myself, even if they are a cheap mod.

Anyway, I'll have to see what I can do, sucks that I have this stuff but would need another $250 in tools just to get it done myself. I'll have to see if my old school DSM buddy will let me use his stuff/garage.
 


XanRules

Active member
Messages
527
Likes
240
Location
Portland
#71
Yeah, the short shifter plate is fine, but you have to remove a bracket to get to the shifter cable bushings and I figure if I'm gonna dick around with that I might as well change the mount bushings, too. I tried to do the shifter cable bushings when I did my crossover pipe but it was significantly more time-consuming than I'd been lead to believe so I just put 'em back in the bag.
 


anticon

Active member
Messages
602
Likes
530
Location
Sherwood
#72
I recently did the traction bar on mine. I bought a single 1/2" 19 mm impact socket from HF for $4. I used a 16" breaker bar and it wasn't too hard to get them loose (tightening them was a different story.) I had an impact wrench standing by but didn't need it. I also have a HF 1/2" torque wrench that I used. I put some blue threadlocker on the bolts when they were reinstalled because it looked like they had some from the factory, I did not use any other anti-seize. I probably would have been better off with adding a 6" extension because the head of the torque wrench was hitting my Depo charge pipe. I pulled the stock bar off and snugly tightened the new bar on while on jack stands. Then I set it down on ramps and torqued the rest of the way. My ramps were too short so I had to add some blocks to them to get them high enough to use the torque wrench. I only got the driver side torqued down all the way, the passenger side the socket started slipping on the bolt, but it was pretty damn tight anyway. So far no problems, other than my charge pipe was rubbing on the brace, so I had to slip a piece of cut rubber tubing between the two. I was worried about getting too hot, but I was assured it was okay, so far so good. If the rubber falls out, I will know it, and will do something else.

I would say I can help but I have a ton of yard work I have to get done (chainsaw, debris hauling, and burning) before it really starts raining.
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#73
Yeah, the short shifter plate is fine, but you have to remove a bracket to get to the shifter cable bushings and I figure if I'm gonna dick around with that I might as well change the mount bushings, too. I tried to do the shifter cable bushings when I did my crossover pipe but it was significantly more time-consuming than I'd been lead to believe so I just put 'em back in the bag.
Ah, fair enough, it does sound a bit more involved than I thought...
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#74
I recently did the traction bar on mine. I bought a single 1/2" 19 mm impact socket from HF for $4. I used a 16" breaker bar and it wasn't too hard to get them loose (tightening them was a different story.) I had an impact wrench standing by but didn't need it. I also have a HF 1/2" torque wrench that I used. I put some blue threadlocker on the bolts when they were reinstalled because it looked like they had some from the factory, I did not use any other anti-seize. I probably would have been better off with adding a 6" extension because the head of the torque wrench was hitting my Depo charge pipe. I pulled the stock bar off and snugly tightened the new bar on while on jack stands. Then I set it down on ramps and torqued the rest of the way. My ramps were too short so I had to add some blocks to them to get them high enough to use the torque wrench. I only got the driver side torqued down all the way, the passenger side the socket started slipping on the bolt, but it was pretty damn tight anyway. So far no problems, other than my charge pipe was rubbing on the brace, so I had to slip a piece of cut rubber tubing between the two. I was worried about getting too hot, but I was assured it was okay, so far so good. If the rubber falls out, I will know it, and will do something else.

I would say I can help but I have a ton of yard work I have to get done (chainsaw, debris hauling, and burning) before it really starts raining.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm gonna have to pick up some LockTite myself for the engine mount bolts too... But not sure what you mean by "stock" bar, the traction bar is like a lower strut tower brace, right? But there is a some stock bar in the way too?
 


anticon

Active member
Messages
602
Likes
530
Location
Sherwood
#75
Thanks for the ideas, I'm gonna have to pick up some LockTite myself for the engine mount bolts too... But not sure what you mean by "stock" bar, the traction bar is like a lower strut tower brace, right? But there is a some stock bar in the way too?
Sorry, I just meant the stock bolts. It bolts between the front connection of the control arms to the cross-member. It looks like it basically ties the two control arms together a little better since the stamped cross-member isn't solid between the two.

SKETCH: Red is the brace, blue is the control arms. The stamped metal is the crossmember. I'm not sure how the crossmember is mounted to anything else though.


https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2017/ford/fiesta/st-trim/1-6l-l4-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#76
Sorry, I just meant the stock bolts. It bolts between the front connection of the control arms to the cross-member. It looks like it basically ties the two control arms together a little better since the stamped cross-member isn't solid between the two.

SKETCH: Red is the brace, blue is the control arms. The stamped metal is the crossmember. I'm not sure how the crossmember is mounted to anything else though.


https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2017/ford/fiesta/st-trim/1-6l-l4-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat
Ahh, thanks for clarifying! I'll have to figure out what to do, but pretty sure my buddy will let me use his stuff, and he definitely has just about everything possible as far as tools... so it's preferable to have the front on jack stands and wheel hanging free to take off the bolts, right? I just need to be sure to fully torque after the front is back down on the ground?
 


anticon

Active member
Messages
602
Likes
530
Location
Sherwood
#77
Ahh, thanks for clarifying! I'll have to figure out what to do, but pretty sure my buddy will let me use his stuff, and he definitely has just about everything possible as far as tools... so it's preferable to have the front on jack stands and wheel hanging free to take off the bolts, right? I just need to be sure to fully torque after the front is back down on the ground?
Yeah, you will want the wheels hanging so you can move the control arms back in line to get the bolts back in.
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#78
OK guys, I went to Master Muffler in Hillsboro yesterday and they managed to get me before closing... So they had to cut off the rear end slack pipe section of the 18" glasspack and put an S pipe on to bring the exit down to a level where I can install the 9" tip that just arrived back at home this morning. It cost an even $100 and they spent a good 40 minutes welding everything just right... As of now the exhaust ends under the car still and have MASSIVE boom/drone and vibration on any type of acceleration, I gotta hope that just adding the bolt on tip to bring the sound out the back of the car instead of ending under will help significantly. As of now I cannot recommend a simple muffler to glasspack swap if you just want a "little" more sound, I have far from that right now... But I'm hopeful as I can tell on my WOT runs that I can literally hear the air hitting the car/air dams so I think a 9" resonated tip should be pretty helpful, I'll find out tonight!
 


Messages
257
Likes
73
Location
Vancouver
#79
OK guys, I went to Master Muffler in Hillsboro yesterday and they managed to get me before closing... So they had to cut off the rear end slack pipe section of the 18" glasspack and put an S pipe on to bring the exit down to a level where I can install the 9" tip that just arrived back at home this morning. It cost an even $100 and they spent a good 40 minutes welding everything just right... As of now the exhaust ends under the car still and have MASSIVE boom/drone and vibration on any type of acceleration, I gotta hope that just adding the bolt on tip to bring the sound out the back of the car instead of ending under will help significantly. As of now I cannot recommend a simple muffler to glasspack swap if you just want a "little" more sound, I have far from that right now... But I'm hopeful as I can tell on my WOT runs that I can literally hear the air hitting the car/air dams so I think a 9" resonated tip should be pretty helpful, I'll find out tonight!
Lol. Slap the tip on and report back.

Just curious, what was your reasoning for not just doing a resonator delete?
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,196
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
#80
Lol. Slap the tip on and report back.

Just curious, what was your reasoning for not just doing a resonator delete?
Well, mainly because I hated the sound of doing a res delete and leaving stock muffler from what I heard in the videos, so thought I'd try something a little different... so to be fair, there isn't any drone or sound from anywhere except the rear now, obviously with the rest as intact stock, but damn the boom from the rear is crazy right now, LOL.
 




Top