Sound Deadening? Who has done it? Where is most effective?

My big question is, does it make a big difference beyond the doors?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5-channel amp, new speakers, channel summing LOC, subwoofer and 4-door sound proofing all professionally installed. Wondering if I should DIY on the rear hatch, spare tire area, passenger/driver footwells and under the dash? I get it we drive a fiesta but road noise is LOUD and I hate cranking up my speakers when I get on the freeway.

I'm really trying to budget below $1000 and debating the cost vs gains of another ~$200 in deadening material.

Hmmm... Professional installation and components under 1k? I don't think this is feasible. And, if you are planning on soundproofing most of the car - which means A LOT of stripping of the plastic panels, you need to invest in higher quality speakers to take advantage of it, otherwise - there's no point, IMHO. So, you'll likely need to reevaluate your budget.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I've been quoted by 3 reputable shops so far $400-600 for install labor (3-5hours $100-120/hr). Definitely 'budget but quality' components. Lots of good reviewed name brand speakers in the $70 range. I already have a sub too.

All prices from Amazon including 4 year warranty from Square on all electronics.

Pioneer 5ch amp - $201
Pioneer 6.5" ts-a1606 a series components-$62
Pioneer 6.5" tsa1676r 3way speaker -$42
Nvx 100% copper 5/6 channel amp kit - $119
Noico 80mil butyl deadener 18 sq ft -$37
Noico 150mil closed cell foam 19sq ft - $32
Audio control LC2i -$72
Pioneer 12" ts-swx3002 - $0 (I already own it)
Total $562

I'm looking at $962-1162 installed. Pretty close to my budget.

Just wondering if I should save up longer and deadening the spare tire area before amp and sub are installed. Also not sure how much deadening the doors need, I've heard not much can fit.

Always appreciate the input and suggestions.





Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

The installers are then much quicker than I would expect them - to do it right, one has to remove a lot of interior panels, and then deal with the window lifting mechanisms. Just doesn't pass the sniff test for me. Then again, if they do a lot of FiSTs, then perhaps indeed it's an hour per door... But, routing the wires takes a lot of time (well, it did for me) - I'd ask them to give you a detailed quote so that you aren't surprised in the end. Honestly, I just don't see this doable in a few hours. It took me two weekends, but - I don't do it professionally, obviously, so I am expecting them to be faster, just not THAT fast...

I am still shopping around but it's pretty competitive here in OC. The biggest shop in my city quoted me a Rockford Fosgate Prime total system: component fronts, coax rears, 12" sub and box and 5ch amp for $600 installed. +$100 extra for 'premium wiring' and +$200 for door sound deadening and install (I'm assuming dynamat door kits). They also offer lifetime warranty on the install including broken clips and rattles.

So I think $600 labor for install alone is reasonable.

Definitely still a budget build. I choke when I see others pay $1200 for a DSP. But to each their own I guess.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

If you decide to add sound deadening, Dynamat is very effective.

Competitive doesn't even begin to describe it. I'd paid gladly, if those were indeed the prices - considering how much time I had to spend on this. Labor of love, surely, but - an amateur job nonetheless. I am quite curious how they are going to route the sound leads to the speakers - this takes an effort, from finding the correct twisted pair in the loom, and then routing them through the door jamb. I would imagine they are going to solder, rather than tap the leads. I am being incredulous simply because I am jealous, I guess. Getting the sound deadening through the small openings in the door is a bitch, and - the view is if you don't cover the whole area, it ain't worth it. So - I hear you, and hope that you won't get the bait and switch dealio.

And quite expensive too. The Russian stuff is cheaper, obviously, and I don't know if there is any difference in performance....

Is [MENTION=636]RAAMaudio[/MENTION] still in the soundproofing biz?

Hey, you're in my area. Do you mind sharing the shop you went to for the quote? I've been recently considering sound deadening my doors too (although not much else as I'm satisfied with the sound when not moving) and I'd be interested in seeing what they would charge for that. Thanks.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

I appreciate your concern. I too have messed with audio installations and while in theory I can do the install, the associated swearing, broken clips, running wires, rattling panels are just not worth it. Deadening the trunk area is within my skill level however not currently within my budget.

I've read LOTS of Raamaudio's posts saying that 60%+ coverage butyl with close to 100% close cell foam is more than adequate. I doubt any shop will be able to cover 100% of the door. Even a 12x12" piece of dynamat behind each speaker is an improvement so most or part of the door covered should produce SOME results. I'm under no impression that I'll be winning any SPL or SQ competitions, but every bit helps.

I'd have to schedule an appointment to really go over what the install entailed but the shops I looked at were well established with good reviews. Since they offer a "problem free" warranty I guess any shoddy install could be remedied.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

HB autosound, Beach Auto Sound, Metro Sound. Al& Ed's won't install customer brought parts. There's a few nice shops in OC mostly HB and Costa Mesa.

Deadening install alone is pretty pricey. Since my doors are already off for the speakers I'm saving significant labor cost on the deadening install.

Most car audio places will gladly combine labor. $500 was the average quote on my install. I just picked the shops with plentiful good reviews.

My buddy's system was installed by Beach Auto Sound and he only had 1 problem with a trim clip that came undone. They fixed it right away and we're cool about it. All the other shops I only know by their reviews.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I think he's officially retired but the company lives on. I got a lot of info from the Raamaudio.com website. Their shop is in Riverside. When I asked who they could recommend for a local install they told me there's plenty of qualified installers by me without being specific.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Yep, still own the business though retired over 5 years, I can help you figure out what is the best for your needs but be advised, this is a noisy car due to design and mods done or not, mine is pretty easy to live with but it took some tire swapping and I have all suspension, engine and trans mounts upgrades.

Cool. He'd be who I asked for sound deadening advice even if he weren't a member

Appreciate you stopping by. I realize this isn't a luxury car but I'm sure deadening the areas around the speakers will be most effective?

My goal is to improve overall sound quality and not have to crank it up on the highway. On a 'good, better, best' scale my budget is definitely in the good range lol.

I'd like to use one of your kits for the trunk floor area, but maybe the floor up front would be better?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I was thinking that deadening the floor and trunk would really require a quiet car to begin with, and the FiST ain't that. I'm sure that you'll get SOME improvement, but IMHO, without switching to different tires, etc., you just won't get your bang for the buck.

Mine doesn't have a muffler, and I have an Injen air intake with a Turbosmart BOV, so there's quite a bit of whooshing and hissing, not to mention the drone of the exhaust... I figured - the doors is all that's needed, and I'd crank it on the highway (with the amp, I only have to go to 11). Embrace the inherent noisiness of the FiST, I say...

You can always get an S class if you want to be cocooned...

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Very true! My priority is definitely sound quality vs overall quietness. I'll probably just stick with the doors and my budget. Maybe add some more deadening in the future if needed. I don't mind motor noise, but I don't want anything drowning out the stereo on my weekly long commutes.

I plan on going 16s and taller rubber when my cheapy igen imove2 tires wear out (soon thank God).

If you think an S class is quiet one of my clients has two Rolls Royce Phantoms and even the drop top is more quiet than an S class. Spooky quiet... maybe that's why they call it a Phantom.



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

RR has the fiber optics in the cashmere roof liner. Starry night option.

And, an S class I can swing, but the Roller is a tad too dear....

Only his hard top had the sparkly headliner not the convertible. I appreciate those cars on so many levels, but 'fun' they are not.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk