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FORD cannot even get gauges to work right??? Overheated, likely blown head gasket but also cracked head......

M-Sport fan

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#21
Take the same pile of parts and same quality team and one can build pretty much the same car on any similar chassis from other manf....in my opinion....not to say the results using our great little chassis are not incredible, of course they are but I believe it is more the team than the chassis.

I know the cars are far more stock oriented in lower classes and they should be.
OK, but one does NOT walk into a showroom and buy a tube frame chassis car, nor a full carbon fiber/kevlar monocoque car (unless one is a MULTI-millionaire/BILLIONAIRE in the case of the latter ;) ).

Yes, the 'pile of parts' argument holds much more credence when the 'team' in question has MANY MANY BILLION$$ to spend on the effort (as your Nippon Giant juggernaut does on Team Gazoo Racing).

Granted, Ford did 'pitch in' a little more help this year to M-Sport's efforts (wind tunnel testing, engineers, and some more coin), but it is NOWHERE IN EVEN THE SAME UNIVERSE to what both TOYota, and Hyundai throw at their teams/crews.

Given the monetary support differences, M-Sport should NOT be winning even ONE single round of this championship, yes, even with the supposedly 'superior' driver on it's top crew.
 


M-Sport fan

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#22
Except, WRC cars must carry an insurance disk in Europe. They are street legal. Part of WRC requirements are that the car takes public roads from one stage to another, no trailering.

A fully built race car that was never based on a production chassis would never be allowed to legally enter any Rally event(at least in WRC).

Some people’s FiSTs on here actually put down MORE power than the WRC cars are allowed... mind blowing!

The chassis definitely plays a role, though as always, the team trumps the car(mostly)...


Sent from my iPhone using Glue and macaroni
YES! THANK YOU!! [thumb]
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #23
I have not followed WRC for many years so my comments are not based on that exactly, just building race cars in general. Keeping the cars street legal driving between events is very cool actually and I have built such a car though not quite as wild as theirs but mine also had a high end audio competition system, AC, etc...and 275lbs lighter than stock:) I drove it to all but one event and beat nearly all higher end builds that were always hauled in or on a trailer and mine was FWD against RWD and AWD cars that most would think my car would not even be in the hunt...

M-sport must be maned by a VERY COMPETENT and hard core enthusiast group of people, to say the least:)

I fully advocate starting with a real car to build something from that the manufacturer actually sells to the general public at affordable prices, great marketing, great for enthusiasts, etc...I just believe they would be easier to build and maintain if not having to use a stock platform but then again, not the same thing so I do get it.
 


M-Sport fan

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#24
I just believe they would be easier to build and maintain if not having to use a stock platform but then again, not the same thing so I do get it.
This is probably why the Global Rallycross, and World Rallycross 'Lights' cars ARE tube/space frame based, with a naturally aspirated, but larger (2.4 liter) Duratech based, Mountune built engine, placed amidships in the car. ;)
 


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RAAMaudio

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Spring 2014, had it delivered to the CA border with 278 miles in it, put 5 miles on cruising around, loaded into the toyhauler, brought back to UT where we lived then, put on a lift at 283 miles, 8 months of mods, finally started driving it, broke it in, 2 track days, back on lift for more mods to go from prototype Cyborg to DHM/RAAMaudio EFR prototype, ....21k miles now, 2k on DHM 2560R, nearly all just cruising around. Only driven in the rain a few times, never in snow or on salted roads, no accidents....I still love the car but just do not have a need for it as living a completely different lifestyle now and it does not fit in well.

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I did not know the GRC cars had mid engines, makes for better balance with all the jumps they do:)
 


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RAAMaudio

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I was into model cars at 5 or 6, started adding wiring to them by 7 or 8, slot cars at 9, winding high performance motors by 10, had very good auto shop classes starting in junior high, started modding cars before I had a license, 66 now, no longer have a place to work on them as full time in an RV spot but I can do a bit here and there. Bought a 4runner, getting a little lift, wheels, tires, winch, not hard core rock crawler mods, just rock hounding, pulling a small camp trailer....in the mean time totally remodeling our 24,000 lb 5th wheel RV, building a high quality portable shed/shop/greenhouse. Getting ready for off grid living in the RV, will get some older classic one to redo into a guest house...seems I still have to have projects on wheels:)

We love the area we are in but being down the road from the state capital, not that many roads until go up into the mountains but to many tourists there, too many LEO on roads here...and the car is simply to fast to let it all out, many cars are, needs to be on a track as I built it for. I have considered going back to a hybrid turbo but there are so many one off mods on this car it would not be cost effective to do so, too much work for little in return. The car is built for making very serious lap times yet still great on the road where our intentions were for site seeing and grocery hauling between track events as we traveled. No longer traveling like that, had eye injuries so not sure I can even drive it all out anymore, it just needs a new home where somebody can appreciated how well it is put together as a whole.

When we go off grid it will likely be on property a car cannot get to, not one like this especially, we will need a raised AWD car at the least.
 


M-Sport fan

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#30
I did not know the GRC cars had mid engines, makes for better balance with all the jumps they do:)
ONLY the all basically the same (spec car) GRC "LITES" cars (which use a Mk7 Fiesta 'silhouette' body shape) are mid engined.

The regular, top spec, fully individual by manufacturer cars still use an unrestricted turbo front engine, albeit in a 'north-south' layout, instead of our (and the WRC's) 'sidewinder' layout. ;)
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #31
OK, makes sense, want to keep a little DNA in the cars sort of, kind of, like a real car:)
 


XuperXero

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OK, Car has been sitting for months now due to other priorities but I need to finally fix it and considering pulling the head to see if any chance just a head gasket will do the job...not likely but I read it takes quite a few specialty tools to do the work so might not be worth it but easier for me being full time in an RV I can do that where is is parked behind it instead of renting shop space.

I will search, have a bit, looking for info on the swap, have any help to offer it will be much appreciated:)

Thanks,
Rick
Hi Rick,

FYI head gasket won't be enough. I'm on my third one and it's loosing coolant again. Even grinding the head didn't help. 2k km between each head gasket swap. It just won't hold up once the car overheats, most likely need new head and block grinding.
 


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RAAMaudio

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I decided to just swap in a 2016+ engine instead, easier to do and can get one shipped to a local pick up point for around $1000 total with around 10,000 miles on it. I will get one from something other than an ST as most likely never been "tuned".

Thanks for the info, sorry you had yours done so many times and still having problems:(



Hi Rick,

FYI head gasket won't be enough. I'm on my third one and it's loosing coolant again. Even grinding the head didn't help. 2k km between each head gasket swap. It just won't hold up once the car overheats, most likely need new head and block grinding.
 


danbfree

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#34
I decided to just swap in a 2016+ engine instead, easier to do and can get one shipped to a local pick up point for around $1000 total with around 10,000 miles on it. I will get one from something other than an ST as most likely never been "tuned".

Thanks for the info, sorry you had yours done so many times and still having problems:(
Sorry to hear you went through all this, I hope you can get a '16+ engine that's affordable although I do find it odd you are worried about an engine as stout as ours with only 10,000 being tuned when you just went through those problems due to sensors, not from a tune when the tunes out there are also quite safe... Also not sure what you mean by something other than an ST, can you just take an a NA 1.6 and put the ST head and gaskets on it? Would it still have the same internals?
 


danbfree

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The AP would tell you the coolant temp directly from the sensor, but the oil temp is calculated from an algorithm, and is not the most accurate thing in the world.
The main problem is that some people (like me) do not want to leave/have the AP in the car at all times (for whatever reasons; break-in/theft worries, heat damage, etc.), whereas if one has permanent aftermarket gauges installed, there's no worries about those issues, and the readings are taken directly from their dedicated sensors.
Since you brought up the old posts on Rally, I'll bring this up :) Anyway, I don't understand this line of thinking on the AP when it's so easy to hide/remove, honestly, I just keep my AP on a mag mount and pop it right off and hide it in the gap under the steering wheel if I'm parking in a "shady" area or an area without much shade and worried about heat... Also, I've also been wondering about the oil temps, I don't think it's just an algorithm, I think it uses other sensors to approximate it pretty close. For example, If A is known and C is known then B can be determined pretty easily... If it was JUST an algorithm how would it know that I switched to a large oil filter and shown lower temps right away? Just curious here...
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thanks:)

Since so easy to find a none ST engine as far more available why take a chance on one being abused, improperly tuned, over revved, etc....just get a mom and pop car engine, same exact engine, cheap, easy to find....

I am not adding enough power to warrant a built engine either, part of why I bought this car and have also done so on NA cars that I boosted, blow them up, buy an engine from a different car like a granny driven one....I have paid as little as $400 for a less than 10k mile engine, dropped it in, go have more fun....the only blown engines I have ever had were due to bad tunes so I found better tuners the next time.

Since my windows are tinted I just pop the AP out of the mount and let it hang by the cable when parked but if far from the car, going to be parked a long time, it gets stowed away better.
 


danbfree

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#39
The Fusion, Escape, and Transit have also employed the 1.6T.
Ah, of course! :) Still think these motors themselves are bullet proof unless it's gone big turbo, but why not find the best example possible if you can... But kind of surprised the cams aren't different either but yeah, I guess I heard that they are indeed identical and if all meant for a small torque focused turbo to go with it makes perfect sense when there are so many out there...
 


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