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Safe aftermarket LED headlight bulb info, finds and discussion

redmoe

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Just for reference higher end bulbs like diode dynamics have a much higher spec for the max temp range (150 C or 302 F). From their site:

Reliability. From the high-temperature teflon wire, to the zinc castings, every part of the the SL1 was designed for reliability. The driver uses a unique boost-mode circuit, which prevents thermal imbalance in the LEDs, and has transient protection for long life in automotive circuits.

Finally, the SL1 bulb was put through its paces in our environmental testing chambers, through dozens of thermal cycles, from -40 to 150 degrees Celsius. The SL1 is a durable, reliable bulb, and is backed by a three year warranty.
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #202
I took some more temp measurements this evening.

Here’s the video: https://youtu.be/EoVnSYR2aSU

Hikari Phillips H11 bulbs
Cover on: ~199 F
Cover off: ~ 181 F

~ 18 F or ~ 8 C difference
Big difference to me considering 180F is the environmental operating limit, so that keeps them from going over that really.... I have no idea how you test but I would if I could after installing the MAXGTS with the pass-through covers out of curiosity.
 


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danbfree

danbfree

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Thread Starter #203
Just for reference higher end bulbs like diode dynamics have a much higher spec for the max temp range (150 C or 302 F). From their site:

Reliability. From the high-temperature teflon wire, to the zinc castings, every part of the the SL1 was designed for reliability. The driver uses a unique boost-mode circuit, which prevents thermal imbalance in the LEDs, and has transient protection for long life in automotive circuits.

Finally, the SL1 bulb was put through its paces in our environmental testing chambers, through dozens of thermal cycles, from -40 to 150 degrees Celsius. The SL1 is a durable, reliable bulb, and is backed by a three year warranty.
There you go, that's the good stuff... this cheapie stuff needs a little help to last so the least I could do is get the right rear covers. :)
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #204

redmoe

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I used a black and decker temp gun, you can see it in the video. I just found in the Hikari manual that they instruct the owner to install the original duct cover and if the fan does not clear the OEM cover it suggest a deeper aftermarket cover. In contrast the opt 7 manual states that the user should leave the fan assembly exposed via a pass through cover. Diode dynamics designs the bulbs specifically to fit under the oem cover.

So it really comes down to the design, how it was tested (if at all) and ultimately the manufacturers recommended installation procedures. Again while the basic high level concept for the bulb design seems the same, materials, physical layout (heat sink surface design), power circuit design, etc will greatly impact the operational environment requirements and performance of the system.

For all we know many of the less expensive manufacturers may be copying the specifications from the first design that they cloned (which is a very common practice for chinese clone/counterfeit products). Best bet is to follow the manufacturers documentation. If that is not available and you are using a less expensive product you could try to increase the ventilation as [MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION] recommends or just take the chance on possibly shortening the bulb life (and maybe a slight decrease in performance).
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #207
I installed the MAXGTRS LEDs tonight. Tons of output. Looks pretty pure white. There's a little bit of scatter but not bad for a halogen reflector housing. The cutoff isn't a crisp line but it certainly doesn't spill a lot of light above the "cutoff" line. I have the LEDs facing left and right, or at 9 and 3 o'clock. Coming from Sylvania SilverStar zXe, these LEDs have a ton more output and much whiter.

I've tried 2 other brands of LEDs and the glare was atrocious. These are very acceptable.

I also have no idea why people remove the headlamps to change bulbs. They're very accessible without removing anything. Takes just a few minutes to swap both out.
You are right here in the fact that if they fit then you shouldn't have to detach the headlight housing itself, but some people have large hands, unlike me, and sometimes the passenger side is a pretty tight squeeze... I also do like how yours don't have an external driver module, it is built right in, so no worrying about the driver modules adding any heat.
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #208
I used a black and decker temp gun, you can see it in the video. I just found in the Hikari manual that they instruct the owner to install the original duct cover and if the fan does not clear the OEM cover it suggest a deeper aftermarket cover. In contrast the opt 7 manual states that the user should leave the fan assembly exposed via a pass through cover. Diode dynamics designs the bulbs specifically to fit under the oem cover.

So it really comes down to the design, how it was tested (if at all) and ultimately the manufacturers recommended installation procedures. Again while the basic high level concept for the bulb design seems the same, materials, physical layout (heat sink surface design), power circuit design, etc will greatly impact the operational environment requirements and performance of the system.

For all we know many of the less expensive manufacturers may be copying the specifications from the first design that they cloned (which is a very common practice for chinese clone/counterfeit products). Best bet is to follow the manufacturers documentation. If that is not available and you are using a less expensive product you could try to increase the ventilation as [MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION] recommends or just take the chance on possibly shortening the bulb life (and maybe a slight decrease in performance).
Well said, the recommendations can indeed vary, and another factor to consider is it seems like there are more and more with a built in driver with no dangling external driver module to worry about... When my MAXGTS bulbs arrive I'll put up some pics on however I end up installing using the pass through rear covers, I'm gonna go all out nerd on it and see if I can get the driver module to hang outside of the housing. But if I can't make a good seal I'll have to be happy I have my housing sealed off with at least the heat sink sitting to the outside.
 


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I installed the MAXGTRS LEDs tonight. Tons of output. Looks pretty pure white. There's a little bit of scatter but not bad for a halogen reflector housing. The cutoff isn't a crisp line but it certainly doesn't spill a lot of light above the "cutoff" line. I have the LEDs facing left and right, or at 9 and 3 o'clock. Coming from Sylvania SilverStar zXe, these LEDs have a ton more output and much whiter.

I've tried 2 other brands of LEDs and the glare was atrocious. These are very acceptable.

I also have no idea why people remove the headlamps to change bulbs. They're very accessible without removing anything. Takes just a few minutes to swap both out.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Do you have pictures of how they sit in the housing? Did you have to get aftermarket end caps / dust caps / whatever?

I bought the Oedros when they went on Amazon flash sale the other day but will probably return them given the earlier posts in this thread.
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #210
Do you have pictures of how they sit in the housing? Did you have to get aftermarket end caps / dust caps / whatever?

I bought the Oedros when they went on Amazon flash sale the other day but will probably return them given the earlier posts in this thread.
Well, I have the oEdRo now and have the MAXGTS arriving any day now, but now kind of regretting even ordering the MAXGTS, the oEdRo are working great... I got them on a flash sale a few months ago, were only $28, how much were they this time? With the factory reflectors, they cause some scatter no matter what bulb you use anyway and the oEdRo don't have any additional at all. I just had to aim the passenger side down a tiny bit, they set it that way by default but with LED having so much output they look so much better being even.

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Same, $28. I like the fact its a 1 year warranty. I got them last night but haven't even open'd the plastic wrap yet and am considering returning them and getting the MAXGTRS from the slow boat.
 


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danbfree

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Same, $28. I like the fact its a 1 year warranty. I got them last night but haven't even open'd the plastic wrap yet and am considering returning them and getting the MAXGTRS from the slow boat.
I would give them a shot, the warranty is actually on the low-end for LED's, many times you see 2-3 years but since they are so much more reliable than halogen anyway shouldn't be a big deal... Anyway, give them a try and Amazon is good about returns so wouldn't hurt to try them first. I'm actually liking mine more and more each day but since I DO have the MAXGTS arriving any day now myself, I will be able to give you an an exact comparison soon.
 


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danbfree

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Same, $28. I like the fact its a 1 year warranty. I got them last night but haven't even open'd the plastic wrap yet and am considering returning them and getting the MAXGTRS from the slow boat.
OK, so got my MAXGTRS on Friday and finally go them installed yesterday... So, very small with no external driver module, which I though would be good but actually made installation tougher. I also don't like the beam adjustment, they should just stick to the LED's being fixed at 9 and 3, they are a pain to get just right this way as the adjustment is a bit loose... I also had bought the pass-through rear covers and managed to get them on but still too little clearance from the edge of fans to the housing rear opening, I ended up with the factory cover on the passenger side and pass through on drivers even after removing my headlights... oEdRo were much easier to install despite them being slightly wider... Once you get the MAXGTRS installed with LED's at 9 and 3 there is indeed a cleaner cutoff but they also seem more blue vs. pure white like the oEdRo... I put the oEdRo in the fogs and the 4 sides just sends out massive glare with factory fog housings, definitely should stick to 9 and 3 position 2 sided LED's for factory fogs... Honestly, probably gonna move the MAXGTRS to fogs and oEdRo back to headlights just because they are a better combo that way... Honestly, I'm not the greatest mechanic but still, for me anyway, I feel the MAXGTRS aren't worth it if you already have the oEdRo.
 


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OK, so got my MAXGTRS on Friday and finally go them installed yesterday... So, very small with no external driver module, which I though would be good but actually made installation tougher. I also don't like the beam adjustment, they should just stick to the LED's being fixed at 9 and 3, they are a pain to get just right this way as the adjustment is a bit loose... I also had bought the pass-through rear covers and managed to get them on but still too little clearance from the edge of fans to the housing rear opening, I ended up with the factory cover on the passenger side and pass through on drivers even after removing my headlights... oEdRo were much easier to install despite them being slightly wider... Once you get the MAXGTRS installed with LED's at 9 and 3 there is indeed a cleaner cutoff but they also seem more blue vs. pure white like the oEdRo... I put the oEdRo in the fogs and the 4 sides just sends out massive glare with factory fog housings, definitely should stick to 9 and 3 position 2 sided LED's for factory fogs... Honestly, probably gonna move the MAXGTRS to fogs and oEdRo back to headlights just because they are a better combo that way... Honestly, I'm not the greatest mechanic but still, for me anyway, I feel the MAXGTRS aren't worth it if you already have the oEdRo.
Thank you for letting me know. I'll put in the Oedros and see how things go.
 


TyphoonFiST

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OK, so got my MAXGTRS on Friday and finally go them installed yesterday... So, very small with no external driver module, which I though would be good but actually made installation tougher. I also don't like the beam adjustment, they should just stick to the LED's being fixed at 9 and 3, they are a pain to get just right this way as the adjustment is a bit loose... I also had bought the pass-through rear covers and managed to get them on but still too little clearance from the edge of fans to the housing rear opening, I ended up with the factory cover on the passenger side and pass through on drivers even after removing my headlights... oEdRo were much easier to install despite them being slightly wider... Once you get the MAXGTRS installed with LED's at 9 and 3 there is indeed a cleaner cutoff but they also seem more blue vs. pure white like the oEdRo... I put the oEdRo in the fogs and the 4 sides just sends out massive glare with factory fog housings, definitely should stick to 9 and 3 position 2 sided LED's for factory fogs... Honestly, probably gonna move the MAXGTRS to fogs and oEdRo back to headlights just because they are a better combo that way... Honestly, I'm not the greatest mechanic but still, for me anyway, I feel the MAXGTRS aren't worth it if you already have the oEdRo.
Mine are still in the box...did you get any nigh nigh time pics all installed?


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danbfree

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Mine are still in the box...did you get any nigh nigh time pics all installed?
Sorry, I was so rushed getting my man chores done that day and struggled to get them installed that I didn't really snap a pic of the them up against the garage door... I will emphasize that indeed they had a cleaner cutoff than the oEdRo's when you can get them to stay with the LED's in a 9 and 3 position, but since they "adjust" that means they spin while locked in place and don't want to stay in said 9/3 position... So, overall their output is good but is a pain to install and keep in the right position, so up to you guys if you want to try them, please feel free, I personally am just a bit bitter with what a pain they are. I even had the fan covers come off and had to be pushed back on, they took kind of a beating from me but still kept on ticking.
 


alexrex20

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Do you have pictures of how they sit in the housing? Did you have to get aftermarket end caps / dust caps / whatever?

I bought the Oedros when they went on Amazon flash sale the other day but will probably return them given the earlier posts in this thread.
The factory rubber boots fit over the bulbs but I'm running them without the boot for maximum airflow. Do you want pics of the front of the headlight or the back?
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #218
The factory rubber boots fit over the bulbs but I'm running them without the boot for maximum airflow. Do you want pics of the front of the headlight or the back?
I spent $10 on the nice pass through rubber boots but wish I didn't now. I should have just kept them off for maximum air flow too, I just don't see much actual water making its way up into the housing.
 


alexrex20

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Ya, and if water does get in there, the heat from the LED and the increased circulation from the fan will make sure it evaporates lol
 


Clint Beastwood

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Has anyone found an oem-style LED array (like porsches) that could be utilized on our cars? If we could get a bare-bucket headlight module it shouldn't be too tough to 3d print a prototype frame for it.

They're bound to throw light a lot more efficiently than making an LED try to emulate the emission pattern of a halogen so it'll work in a reflective housing.


In summary, I want headlights that are LASERS
 


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