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Thread: Brake job mistake
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  1. #131
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    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    If your car os a 2014 and has 100k miles in the rust belt, maybe. My fittings loosened up just fine with normal combo wrenches. I believe it was a 10 and a 17.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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    Member 31 Rep Points Bonesaw's Avatar
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    Thanks alexrex20. Mine is a 2014 with about 95k however not the rust belt thank goodness. I was just up under the car on Monday when I installed the Pierce 6 point brace and everything looked clean/rust free. I think I read on here you have the 6 point as well? I'll be doing a full review of it soon and post up.
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  3. #133
    Member 105 Rep Points CSM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesaw View Post
    Thanks alexrex20. Mine is a 2014 with about 95k however not the rust belt thank goodness. I was just up under the car on Monday when I installed the Pierce 6 point brace and everything looked clean/rust free. I think I read on here you have the 6 point as well? I'll be doing a full review of it soon and post up.
    I know I'll get shit for this but I still think flare wrenches are a must for brake lines. Trust me if you've ever had to replace a rounded banjo bolt you'll know what I'm talking about. I see it as insurance policy from having to deal with that headache PITA again
    2014 Molten Orange
    Pwnall IC, Dizzy 93/E30 V2 tune, Injen Intake
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  4. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by CSM View Post
    I know I'll get shit for this but I still think flare wrenches are a must for brake lines. Trust me if you've ever had to replace a rounded banjo bolt you'll know what I'm talking about. I see it as insurance policy from having to deal with that headache PITA again
    By the time you realize that you actually need one, it'll probably already be too late. Strip!
    2016 Ford Fiesta ST Kona Blue ; Engine, Suspension will remain untouched ; Southwest Ohio ; Winter: 215/45R17 Continental ; Seasonal: 205/40R17 Bridgestone

  5. #135
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    I have a caliper tool which works great. I also have used a HUSKY wood clamp and an old brake pad. Also used a C-clamp.
    All worked fine.

    I didn't crack any bleeder screws, rather I cracked the cap on my reservoir (in San Diego, very low humidity so I wasn't particularly worried about the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid) and placed a rag under the MC.

    My calipers drove back in, no problem. Fluid didn't overflow, either. When I replaced my front lines for STOPTECH SS lines, I didn't have any issues bleeding or with pedal feel after I was done. Guess I'm just damn good at brakes on my fiesta??

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    Quote Originally Posted by LaserWhisperer View Post
    I have a caliper tool which works great. I also have used a HUSKY wood clamp and an old brake pad. Also used a C-clamp.
    All worked fine.

    I didn't crack any bleeder screws, rather I cracked the cap on my reservoir (in San Diego, very low humidity so I wasn't particularly worried about the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid) and placed a rag under the MC.

    My calipers drove back in, no problem. Fluid didn't overflow, either. When I replaced my front lines for STOPTECH SS lines, I didn't have any issues bleeding or with pedal feel after I was done. Guess I'm just damn good at brakes on my fiesta??
    good job
    2014 Molten Orange
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  7. #137
    Senior Member 986 Rep Points TyphoonFiST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CSM View Post
    I know I'll get shit for this but I still think flare wrenches are a must for brake lines. Trust me if you've ever had to replace a rounded banjo bolt you'll know what I'm talking about. I see it as insurance policy from having to deal with that headache PITA again
    I will agree with this statement 100% along with Tranny lines also they belong! F-that open ended shit on those nuts!
    Is this your bush? Are you king of the forest?

  8. #138
    Member 31 Rep Points Bonesaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaserWhisperer View Post
    I have a caliper tool which works great. I also have used a HUSKY wood clamp and an old brake pad. Also used a C-clamp.
    All worked fine.

    I didn't crack any bleeder screws, rather I cracked the cap on my reservoir (in San Diego, very low humidity so I wasn't particularly worried about the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid) and placed a rag under the MC.

    My calipers drove back in, no problem. Fluid didn't overflow, either. When I replaced my front lines for STOPTECH SS lines, I didn't have any issues bleeding or with pedal feel after I was done. Guess I'm just damn good at brakes on my fiesta??
    This is a bit comforting to know- because after reading this thread I have had a bit of aprehension about installing my SS lines. I've done pads twice with no problem. It seems so easy - but I do NOT want these mystery problems and nightmare situations to happen to me since this is my daily.

    These are the steps Im thinking to use: (car on jack stands) Working furthest to closest to Master Cylinder, and quickly swaping old to new line connections to minimize loss of fluid/air getting in

    1. Open reservoir cap
    2. unscrew mount tab on OEM line
    3. remove spring clip at hard line side
    4. crimp rubber OEM line
    5. loosen nut on both ends of the OEM line
    6. unscrew old line off caliper side/screw new line on caliper
    7. then same process for hard line side(quickly)
    8. bleed air out of new line
    9. Install clip and screw in mounting tab
    9. Repeat above 3 more times

    What do you guys think? Have I missed anything? I just want to go into this as prepared as can be.

    Can you describe your SS line install LaserWhisperer? (Since yours went right/no problems)
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    AWR RMM 70a
    Garage line rear spacers 15mm
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  9. #139
    Member 177 Rep Points LaserWhisperer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesaw View Post
    This is a bit comforting to know- because after reading this thread I have had a bit of aprehension about installing my SS lines. I've done pads twice with no problem. It seems so easy - but I do NOT want these mystery problems and nightmare situations to happen to me since this is my daily.

    These are the steps Im thinking to use: (car on jack stands) Working furthest to closest to Master Cylinder, and quickly swaping old to new line connections to minimize loss of fluid/air getting in

    1. Open reservoir cap
    2. unscrew mount tab on OEM line
    3. remove spring clip at hard line side
    4. crimp rubber OEM line
    5. loosen nut on both ends of the OEM line
    6. unscrew old line off caliper side/screw new line on caliper
    7. then same process for hard line side(quickly)
    8. bleed air out of new line
    9. Install clip and screw in mounting tab
    9. Repeat above 3 more times

    What do you guys think? Have I missed anything? I just want to go into this as prepared as can be.

    Can you describe your SS line install LaserWhisperer? (Since yours went right/no problems)
    Your process looks fine to me, although I did bleed the new lines using the caliper bleed screw. Keep in mind though, to make sure your fluid level in the reservoir doesn't drop too much when bleeding, otherwise you run the risk of introducing more air into the system. I just kept a bottle of DOT4 next to the MC and checked in between bleeds.
    That's basically how I did it, again with no issues

 

 
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