CV joint failure

[DvC]

Looks as though my driver side CV joint is failing, I have grease on the inside of that wheel and I get thumping in reverse at low speeds. What are the potential causes for this? I had coil overs on, not slammed at all but lower than stock.

 

[LilPartyBox]

mileage?

 

[Accel Junky]

Mine ripped at the clamp on the passenger side at a track day this weekend. Grease everywhere. 3500 miles on my car. Stock except weight reduction and Cobb RMM.

 

[DvC]

Only 14k miles

 

[M-Sport fan]

Maybe the material, or supplier part the factory uses for these cannot take much heat?

 

[LilPartyBox]

that's not a lot of miles. an aggresive drop can strain CVs. Aggressive being up for interpretation. But have a look at your axles with the car on the ground. I do this on my angled driveway so that I can lay in my garage and see under the car. since the nose is up at an angle it makes it easier. if your outer CV is higher than the inner, then your CVs might have had a tough life. The typical maximum articulation angle is around 45* but who knows what our max is.

Also, road debris is a common cause of compromised CV boots. I had an instance where a boot was slit open and not on the fold.

 

[DvC]

I have since reinstalled the stock suspension so I can have it warrantied. It was pretty low on first drop and I rolled like that for a few thousand miles and raised to nearly stock height after that. Doesn't sound like a common failure. May just be my luck

 

[Zormecteon]

One potential cause of early CV joint failure is shifting while turning. The joint is already under strain from the corner, then unloading and loading it up again puts real strain on it. I was warned about doing this in the manual for my first front driver, a 1980 Rabbit Convertible. .. and the habit of not shifting while turning is more or less ingrained.

 

[M-Sport fan]

One potential cause of early CV joint failure is shifting while turning. The joint is already under strain from the corner, then unloading and loading it up again puts real strain on it. I was warned about doing this in the manual for my first front driver, a 1980 Rabbit Convertible. .. and the habit of not shifting while turning is more or less ingrained.

I did not notice this warning in my '83 A1 GTI's manual.

It may have been there, but I do not recall ever reading it myself, but, it DOES make a lot of sense, and it is not something one should be doing for performance driving, OR mild street driving anyway.

 

[LilPartyBox]

that makes total sense. I've done many an axle replacement... I hate axle replacements. I'll be sure to start training myself

OP, good move just swapping the suspension and getting the freebie. I myself hate dealers and will buy when my time comes.

 

[DvC]

Good advice guys thank you

 

[Maxpowa]

My driver-side went out not that long ago at about 15k miles. Loud clicking noise during turns. Warrantied covered it. They just replaced the whole thing. No modifications to the car. They also found that the wheel bearing was going bad, so they threw that in for good measure...amazingly.

 

[Accel Junky]

Axle replaced no questions asked. Just got my car back.

 

[M-Sport fan]

WOW, that's GREAT (and how it SHOULD BE!).

I just hope that my lousy dealership (I can't call them a "stealership" any more on here or I must face the wrath of certain members) is as cooperative as the above two examples when the time comes.

 

[2017ShdwBlk]

Sorry to open an old thread, but my car is at 8600 miles and I’ve gone through 3 CVs now. One on each side and now the driver side is going out again. I had the first two replaced under warranty fine, but don’t think it should be breaking them like this at all. I’m taking it too a different dealership Monday just seeing if anyone else has heard of this. It’s a 2017 FiST.