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MFactory Helical LSD

M-Sport fan

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#21
I can agree with that.
2 tires are $155. Maybe try it and see how you like the ratio change.
Vs spending a ton of money and being kind of stuck with what it is.

Changing/selling tires is a lot easier than changing a ring and pinion.
True, but Rhinopolis was going to have everything apart anyway for the diff change, so it would not be much more labor charge even if he was paying someone to do this, and it would ONLY be the cost of the r&p and any needed extra hardware/ancillaries. [wink]

Those 235/45-17s do not rub or scrape anywhere, even at stock ride height, let alone lowered at all? [???:)]
 


Sourskittle

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#22
If he changes the gears, and hates it, how much does it cost to put the stock ones back in ?


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#23
If he changes the gears, and hates it, how much does it cost to put the stock ones back in ?
YES, a GREAT point, and why he has to be sure about the way the overall ratios would work for him on both the street and track with his given power level/band. [wink]
 


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#24
If I'm not mistaken, the only way to fully utilize an LSD is by defeating the Torque Vectoring system. Defeating it includes fitting the Bspec ABS unit, and pulling a fuse (and some other work) behind the dash which results in the loss of airbags. Otherwise, torque vectoring will still interfere, rendering your LSD only slightly useful.

Edit- you don't need the FRPP ABS unit (b-spec). But you will lose those airbags.

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Is there a thread somewhere that outlines the procedure to disable Torque Vectoring completely? I thought buying the B spec unit would be good enough..
 


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#26
On the FiST, does the TVC also correlate with braking? My FoST did and one of the reasons why the tail end was happy to play. I'm not a huge fan of using the brakes to go faster but biasing pressure to different wheels to induce yaw is beneficial and turns the vehicle into the corner under braking. They even use this on the FoRS as well.
 


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#27
It's about $1500 cheaper to just install a taller tire to effect your gear ratio. I've been running 24.4" tall tires for 2 years. It def is not for stock turbo guys. Larger turbo guys can trade a little power lose for extra traction.
235/45/17


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How do you fit 235s SS? I'd love to go with fat tires all the way around and I get them at cost so why not haha

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#28
How do you fit 235s SS? I'd love to go with fat tires all the way around and I get them at cost so why not haha

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+1

Plus, are they rubbing ANYWHERE, whether at stock ride height, OR lowered??
 


Sourskittle

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#29
I run stock height and 235/40/17s up front and 205/40/17's in the rear. I thing you MIGHT be able to run 215's in the rear. But I know you can't run 235's in the rear.
As for lowering... I don't do any of that type of stuff, I'm all about traction and power :)

The main point was to use the tires as a cheap "trial" of a taller gear ratio to see if you like it.
On the flip side... We could always run a 205-215/35/17 to try a shorter gear ratio. It has the same effect on RPM's etc. just without the weekend of wrenching and huge cost.

If you like it... Then you could buy the gear you want and go back to using normal sized tires :)


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#30
^^Good points, but I only found two tires (the S.Drive, and Ventus V4 all season) offered in 215/35-17, and NO offerings in a 205/35-17, but maybe that's because it would be a paper thin sidewall that would crack wheels when running over even a stone in the road. :(
 


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#31
I run stock height and 235/40/17s up front and 205/40/17's in the rear. I thing you MIGHT be able to run 215's in the rear. But I know you can't run 235's in the rear.
As for lowering... I don't do any of that type of stuff, I'm all about traction and power :)

The main point was to use the tires as a cheap "trial" of a taller gear ratio to see if you like it.
On the flip side... We could always run a 205-215/35/17 to try a shorter gear ratio. It has the same effect on RPM's etc. just without the weekend of wrenching and huge cost.

If you like it... Then you could buy the gear you want and go back to using normal sized tires :)


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Do you have a write up of running 235s in the front and 205s in the rear? Or can you make one? I don't think anyone else runs a set up like that but a lot of us are interested in maximum traction. What are your wheel specs?

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#36
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#38
I'd like to see a comparison of your diff vs. the Wavetrac. [wink]
Depends on what kind of comparison you mean?

If you mean in an actual back-to-back race environment, on the same car, on the same day, with all the same variables, that would be very difficult :(

If you mean an unbiased technical comparison, then I would be more than happy to oblige :)
 


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#39
Depends on what kind of comparison you mean?

If you mean an unbiased technical comparison, then I would be more than happy to oblige :)

Yes, this.

Mainly, does your diff STOP power to a wheel which is off of the ground (or has almost no grip) or not, as the Quaife does, and the Wavetrac does NOT? [dunno]
 


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#40
Yes, this.

Mainly, does your diff STOP power to a wheel which is off of the ground (or has almost no grip) or not, as the Quaife does, and the Wavetrac does NOT? [dunno]
Ok, I've had to answer this question and explain the technical stuff/reasoning behind it all on on every single forum for the past 10 years (and still do to this date), so I think I'm going to take another approach to this.

Rather than "me" explain things, I'm going to try to get "you" to explain it to yourself by a simple process of I ask a question; you answer. Hopefully at the end of the Q&A, you will have taught yourself enough to understand the differences, and I won't have said anything that people can label as "bias" etc etc

Sound good?
 


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