Reliable mods for daily driving

[bobertST220]

Hey guys, I'm looking into getting some bolt ons for my fiST, and was wondering what you thought on bolt ons for DD. I was gonna start out with just Cobb stage 1 but eventually getting the intercooler and intake for stage two. Do you think this would have any problems regarding reliability? I commute to school everyday so I need a reliable car. Thanks

 

[ColoradoST]

I've been running stage 2 with a custom tune (Panel filter, and IC) for the last 10,000 miles and have no issues. I also commute to school every day.

 

[Bretley]

Usually adding power to any car is going to bring down the reliability. But I would go out on a limb and say your basic bolt-ons will keep it in the "reliable" area you want. I've read that around 365whp+ is the limit on our motor before they're unreliable. A lot of it comes down to your tune and how you take care of your FiST. Keep everything regularly maintained and don't beat on it like a redheaded stepchild and you shouldn't run into any problems . I would suggest getting an AP and Intercooler, and turbosmart bov. Our little turbo doesn't need a bigger intake, so save your money for the AP and intercooler. Depo racing sells all that stuff minus the AP for the best deals. Mountune offers a free pro tune with the purchase of an AP and is again your best deal. Hope this helps, keep on FiST'ing! Lol

 

[OffTheWall503]

The usual bolt-ons, intake, exhaust, intercooler, shouldn't give you any issues.

With that being said, there are a lot of people who run big turbo upgrades and daily drive as well with no issues so YMMV.

 

[Manta Ray]

If your car is a 2016+, wait a bit more for the intake if you must have one. (I am waiting for a proven intake system that comes with a NO CUT adapter)
I would consider intercooler (piping optional, cooling is always good for reliability), catback exhaust (just noise, no real negative impact), OCC (potential placebo, potential reliability mod, no one every said it causes reliability issues), GFB DV+ (because I feel its more reliable than any BOV) to be generally reliable mods with an AP, get a mild custom tune if you are really edgy about these things, but OTS stage 2 is (as far as I know, which isnt much) pretty reliable.

 

[Hijinx]

DHM GTX360r. Very reliable set up.


Some Guy On The Internet

 

[Perfblue15]

DHM GTX360r. Very reliable set up.


Some Guy On The Internet

+1 to this. You will thank us later.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[arlisscm]

+1 to this. You will thank us later.

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+2, I DD with this setup and it is great. Basically stock feeling while cruising, 32 avg mpg and plenty of surprise for anyone who thinks "oh it's just a fiesta." The only issue I have is getting myself to lift after passing someone.

 

[V_2]

I DD the DHM 290r setup, coilovers, wilwood BBK, plus an array of other bolt ons. The car drives so much better than stock and is just as reliable. Still quiet, still comfortable, still smells like a new car on the inside.

Others have put more miles than me, but I've clocked well over 30k so far on all of these parts. Only changing the brake pads and rotors on my wilwoods because they were raced pretty hard before I got them.

 

[Siestarider]

I have 20K miles on my '14, 2K of it on track. Cobb S3 package plus LSD, brakes, brake cooling ducting, wheels, tires and springs/struts, rear seat delete, Odessy PC680 battery. Great daily driver/small SUV but the tracking takes a toll. My guess is the wear and tear of tracking outweights the street milage 10-1. Only failures are blend door actuator (used upgraded part to replace) and a couple hybrid turbo failures, one bearings and one foreign object in compressor. Not faults with car. Pads and rotors last a lot longer with LSD and ESC turned off.

My impression so far it these cars are uncommonly good as dual purpose drivers. I have an oil cooler experiment ready to try for cooling, that is about the only weak area on track. No weak areas on street.

 

[OffTheWall503]

What was the upgraded blend door actuator part?

 

[Siestarider]

I posted pics in one of the early actuator failure threads with part numbers. Not sure if we were all calling it a blend door actuator back then, a while ago.