Battery relocation tutorial?

[Based]

Is there any step by step guide to relocating the battery to the back? Like where do you put it and what kind of cable to use and where to ground?

 

[Mike V]

Check out youtube. Eric the Car guy has a specific video on this. Pretty straight forward. You'll need a battery relocation kit or DIY. Check out summit racing for a kit.

 

[RAAMaudio]

There might be one but I have not seen it though I did the relocation in early 2014, first time I did such a mod was in the early 70s's

1) 4 gauge wire, either decent grade car audio wire or what I prefer to use is welding cable, just bolt it to the stock harness and seal it up really well.
2) ground at the battery to the chassis, 8 gauge being really short likely OK but I prefer to use 4 gauge, strip the paint off where bolting it down and then cover with a sealer.
3) drivers side of firewall has a grommet you can push out that is the perfect size and a good location, not to hard to get to, make sure to put a grommet on the wire to protect it.
4) under dash, pull it through carefully from the engine bay, ensure not rubbing on anything, if so sleave it, tuck into kick panel area behind the trim and under the door sills, etc, plenty of room to run it.
5) where you mount the battery will depend on how you run the cable to it, I used a grommet and went under the car then another one into the DIY battery compartment cut into the tire well.
6) mount battery very very well to ensure it stays put if the car is ever hit hard, forward from the bumper as far as you can go and to the passenger side of the car for better weight distribution.
7) battery type, Lithion Ion lowest weight and size but very high cost. I have had great service from far lower cost gel cell batteries, dending on your needs you would be looking more into 11-24lb batteries, I had an 14lbs and it worked but had to keep a gel cell specific charger on it if parked for a few days in the cold, I run a 23lb one now but part of that was wanting more weight on the back of the car, alarm install, etc.
8) battery prices, many highly over priced relabled batteries out there, Carbon Fiber case not needed, barely saves any weight, Big Crank(same as Decca but cost less) at Batterymart dot com has worked really well.

I used this one at first in the ST, did just fine but as mentioned I needed something a bit bigger for the winter and high end alarm that seems to draw more current than other alarms I have installed.
http://http://www.batterymart.com/p-big-crank-etx14l-battery.html

I moved up to this size, same battery but different brand because I wanted a specific charger they did not sell, Deka brand, priced a little better on this site than on the one above.
https://www.techbatterysolutions.com/Deka-ETX30L-Battery-p/etx30l.htm

I use this charger, got it here for around $39 on sale, costs more now. I own that brand a regular battery I have had for quite a few years now, still works great so wanted to stick to the same brand.
https://www.techbatterysolutions.com/CTEK-US-0-8-Battery-Charger-p/c001.htm

Notes:
1) The 4 guage cable weighed quite a bit less than expected, seems like is was 4lbs or so.
2) Not a bad idea to have an easy to access connection under the hood and if track the car consider a cut off switch that turns off the battery and accessory/run power.
3) Expensive cable ends not needed, I have a 4 guage crimper and used plated copper ends, saves weight, cost, does all that is needed.
4) The batteries can be ordered with brass connectors for regular car battery cable ends but you can save a bit of weight and money just using a washer and 10mm bolt and the less connectors in the circuit the better.
5) I made a new top for the trans mount to save some weight as well, later I taped and filled the mounts with Prothane 2 part urethane.

Hope this helps
Rick

 

[neeqness]

There might be one but I have not seen it though I did the relocation in early 2014, first time I did such a mod was in the early 70s's

1) 4 gauge wire, either decent grade car audio wire or what I prefer to use is welding cable, just bolt it to the stock harness and seal it up really well.
2) ground at the battery to the chassis, 8 gauge being really short likely OK but I prefer to use 4 gauge, strip the paint off where bolting it down and then cover with a sealer.
3) drivers side of firewall has a grommet you can push out that is the perfect size and a good location, not to hard to get to, make sure to put a grommet on the wire to protect it.
4) under dash, pull it through carefully from the engine bay, ensure not rubbing on anything, if so sleave it, tuck into kick panel area behind the trim and under the door sills, etc, plenty of room to run it.
5) where you mount the battery will depend on how you run the cable to it, I used a grommet and went under the car then another one into the DIY battery compartment cut into the tire well.
6) mount battery very very well to ensure it stays put if the car is ever hit hard, forward from the bumper as far as you can go and to the passenger side of the car for better weight distribution.
7) battery type, Lithion Ion lowest weight and size but very high cost. I have had great service from far lower cost gel cell batteries, dending on your needs you would be looking more into 11-24lb batteries, I had an 14lbs and it worked but had to keep a gel cell specific charger on it if parked for a few days in the cold, I run a 23lb one now but part of that was wanting more weight on the back of the car, alarm install, etc.
8) battery prices, many highly over priced relabled batteries out there, Carbon Fiber case not needed, barely saves any weight, Big Crank(same as Decca but cost less) at Batterymart dot com has worked really well.

I used this one at first in the ST, did just fine but as mentioned I needed something a bit bigger for the winter and high end alarm that seems to draw more current than other alarms I have installed.
http://http://www.batterymart.com/p-big-crank-etx14l-battery.html

I moved up to this size, same battery but different brand because I wanted a specific charger they did not sell, Deka brand, priced a little better on this site than on the one above.
https://www.techbatterysolutions.com/Deka-ETX30L-Battery-p/etx30l.htm

I use this charger, got it here for around $39 on sale, costs more now. I own that brand a regular battery I have had for quite a few years now, still works great so wanted to stick to the same brand.
https://www.techbatterysolutions.com/CTEK-US-0-8-Battery-Charger-p/c001.htm

Notes:
1) The 4 guage cable weighed quite a bit less than expected, seems like is was 4lbs or so.
2) Not a bad idea to have an easy to access connection under the hood and if track the car consider a cut off switch that turns off the battery and accessory/run power.
3) Expensive cable ends not needed, I have a 4 guage crimper and used plated copper ends, saves weight, cost, does all that is needed.
4) The batteries can be ordered with brass connectors for regular car battery cable ends but you can save a bit of weight and money just using a washer and 10mm bolt and the less connectors in the circuit the better.
5) I made a new top for the trans mount to save some weight as well, later I taped and filled the mounts with Prothane 2 part urethane.

Hope this helps
Rick

Wouldn't the length of the cable from the battery to the starter motor cause a significant voltage drop when starting the car? Could a capacitor connected just before the starter motor help in this regard (if needed)?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

[Quisp]

Hence the 4 gauge wire.

 

[RAAMaudio]

No worries, even the little battery cranked it right up as long as it was charged up.

It a simple formula to calculate wire size requirements and 4 gauge fit right in and I had the perfect wire on hand so used it.

I did not calculate it this time as have done more than enough such mods to know what was needed so just went with it.