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  1. #91
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    I had the MAP intake with their fix and would get this code every few weeks. After reading this thread, I bought the 14/15 evap line from my local dealer. So far it has not come back.

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    Member 292 Rep Points TDavis's Avatar
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    Did this with a co-workers 2015 FiST. Swapped evap lines and intake tubes
    Ford Master Tech.
    2017 Fiesta ST Platinum White Tri-Coat
    2012 Ducati Monster 796
    2000 Grand Am SC/T

  3. #93
    Senior Member 856 Rep Points TyphoonFiST's Avatar
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    So are we establishing that the 2015 model year is the best year to buy now?
    Is this your bush? Are you king of the forest?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TyphoonFiST View Post
    So are we establishing that the 2015 model year is the best year to buy now?
    yea that would be correct! lol but the 16 and up has sync 3 so I believe I'll take my 16 with 15 avap lines as opposed to a 15 then upgrading to sync 3 (to some it probably don't matter). One thing I will say I am very envious of 14-15 cars is that they were available in race red. That would have for sure been my color choice had it been available for 16. Oh well a blacked out fiesta will have to do lol
    '16 FiST - Shadow Black
    Cobb APv3
    PD tuning 93/e30
    x37 hybird with ported manifold/big inlet
    turbosmart WGA; 14 psi spring
    Depo Racing FMIC, charge pipes
    CPE intake w/ VT big mouth
    whoosh symposer delete
    whoosh catless dp
    Res/muff delete w/ 4" tip
    Diode Dynamics: SL1 headlights, switchback led park lights, stg2 interior & tag lights
    AWR 88D RMM
    NGK 1 step colder plugs
    Swift Spec R springs
    Fswerks short shift
    Damond OCC w/ VTA breather
    CFM breather oil cap
    Twisted Shifterz 2 1/8" blk knob
    no pistons ST dead pedal & gas pedal spacer
    spare/jack delete
    TD PR 1.2s, 15x8 matte black/Conti EC Sport 205/50/15
    over 100 lbs weight reduction from base FiST

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    I can’t deny a brand new Performance Blue would have been nice but in no way do I think the 14-15 were the best years just because of evap lines lol. I am quite happy with my 2018 Orange Spice though and sync 3 is much more important than an evap line that can be changed.
    Love the back up Camera as well even if I don’t use half the time its nice having it there.
    2018 Orange Spice,Smoke Storm Recaro’s,Ebony wheels( for now) Thermal RD Exhaust
    , Cobb AP( tune by Randy af Mountune, more customs to come, ST200 airbox with cold air intake,Revo foam filter, Turbosmart EV blowoff valve, Whoosh motorsports Symposer delete

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    Has anyone that has done this mod experienced any excessive oil residue in their charge pipes?
    Cobb AP w/Mountune Custom Map, Mountune RMM, Mountune Panel Filter, Whoosh Intercooler, Whoosh 3" Downpipe, Swift Spec-R Springs, VelossaTech Wing Risers, Turbosmart Kompact BOV

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    Member 221 Rep Points LILIKE16ST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnetiseST View Post
    Has anyone that has done this mod experienced any excessive oil residue in their charge pipes?
    I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the evap lines. Oil residue is going to be in the charge pipes anyways unless you have a catch can. The amount depends on many factors...driving style, the vehicle in question, weather or not you have a catch can installed, etc. Pretty sure the evap lines should not effect that one way or the other. I just installed a 20k mile engine because my 52k engine in my 16 bit the dust. Lost all my oil due to a hole that was accidently poked into the oil cooler trying to get a tight oil filter off (completely my fault) and I had it checked out at the dealership and they proceeded to tell me my car had excessive buildup of carbon on the intake valves as I never installed a catch can. I installed the engine and my x37 at the same time. Needless to say I have occ from damond motorsports I'm about to install this time around
    '16 FiST - Shadow Black
    Cobb APv3
    PD tuning 93/e30
    x37 hybird with ported manifold/big inlet
    turbosmart WGA; 14 psi spring
    Depo Racing FMIC, charge pipes
    CPE intake w/ VT big mouth
    whoosh symposer delete
    whoosh catless dp
    Res/muff delete w/ 4" tip
    Diode Dynamics: SL1 headlights, switchback led park lights, stg2 interior & tag lights
    AWR 88D RMM
    NGK 1 step colder plugs
    Swift Spec R springs
    Fswerks short shift
    Damond OCC w/ VTA breather
    CFM breather oil cap
    Twisted Shifterz 2 1/8" blk knob
    no pistons ST dead pedal & gas pedal spacer
    spare/jack delete
    TD PR 1.2s, 15x8 matte black/Conti EC Sport 205/50/15
    over 100 lbs weight reduction from base FiST

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    Quote Originally Posted by LILIKE16ST View Post
    I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the evap lines. Oil residue is going to be in the charge pipes anyways unless you have a catch can. The amount depends on many factors...driving style, the vehicle in question, weather or not you have a catch can installed, etc.

    I figured as much. I don't have a catch can installed at the moment but I've heard that there isn't enough engine vacuum to facilitate one. To me there is an EXCESSIVE amount of oil in the hot side pipe, my boost hose popped off and sprayed the underside of my car with oil, car seems to run fine though and its not consuming oil, so I'm really at a loss here.
    Cobb AP w/Mountune Custom Map, Mountune RMM, Mountune Panel Filter, Whoosh Intercooler, Whoosh 3" Downpipe, Swift Spec-R Springs, VelossaTech Wing Risers, Turbosmart Kompact BOV

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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnetiseST View Post
    I figured as much. I don't have a catch can installed at the moment but I've heard that there isn't enough engine vacuum to facilitate one. To me there is an EXCESSIVE amount of oil in the hot side pipe, my boost hose popped off and sprayed the underside of my car with oil, car seems to run fine though and its not consuming oil, so I'm really at a loss here.
    Oil gets passed through the pcv system from the engine back into the intake and the turbo is also oil lubricated as well as cooled via coolant so that probably explains some of the oil also. There is def oil that goes back into the intake...and it def causes intake valve carbon buildup. There are things you can do to slow it down a lot and combat it. Use really good synthetic oil and change often...don't do the 10k oil changes ford recommends (I don't recommend it anyways). Needs to be closer to the 5-7 range at the max imo. Get an engine oil that plays well with DI turbo engines. There are certain driving habits that can help too and an occ is another method to help some. How much has yet to be proven but if it helps any it's worth it for me. I've read that in high boost apps the modified pcv can raise pressure inside the crank case but you can opt for the can with the breather on it like I did from damand motorsports and I also have a cfm oil breather cap so I should not have any issues with too much pressure in the crankcase. I've sent my initial logs to Ryan at PD tuning waiting on my first revision for 93 then on to e30...I'm pumped because the car feels pretty good as is on a super concervative base tune with 93. Catch can will be installed this weekend.
    '16 FiST - Shadow Black
    Cobb APv3
    PD tuning 93/e30
    x37 hybird with ported manifold/big inlet
    turbosmart WGA; 14 psi spring
    Depo Racing FMIC, charge pipes
    CPE intake w/ VT big mouth
    whoosh symposer delete
    whoosh catless dp
    Res/muff delete w/ 4" tip
    Diode Dynamics: SL1 headlights, switchback led park lights, stg2 interior & tag lights
    AWR 88D RMM
    NGK 1 step colder plugs
    Swift Spec R springs
    Fswerks short shift
    Damond OCC w/ VTA breather
    CFM breather oil cap
    Twisted Shifterz 2 1/8" blk knob
    no pistons ST dead pedal & gas pedal spacer
    spare/jack delete
    TD PR 1.2s, 15x8 matte black/Conti EC Sport 205/50/15
    over 100 lbs weight reduction from base FiST

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    Quote Originally Posted by LILIKE16ST View Post
    Oil gets passed through the pcv system from the engine back into the intake and the turbo is also oil lubricated as well as cooled via coolant so that probably explains some of the oil also. There is def oil that goes back into the intake...and it def causes intake valve carbon buildup. There are things you can do to slow it down a lot and combat it. Use really good synthetic oil and change often...don't do the 10k oil changes ford recommends (I don't recommend it anyways). Needs to be closer to the 5-7 range at the max imo. Get an engine oil that plays well with DI turbo engines. There are certain driving habits that can help too and an occ is another method to help some. How much has yet to be proven but if it helps any it's worth it for me. I've read that in high boost apps the modified pcv can raise pressure inside the crank case but you can opt for the can with the breather on it like I did from damand motorsports and I also have a cfm oil breather cap so I should not have any issues with too much pressure in the crankcase. I've sent my initial logs to Ryan at PD tuning waiting on my first revision for 93 then on to e30...I'm pumped because the car feels pretty good as is on a super concervative base tune with 93. Catch can will be installed this weekend.
    Not gonna agree with you here and will say we should be careful in stating things as fact when you choose to gave an opinion that goes against the plenty of proof catch cans don't help with carbon buildup prevention, and many other owners and tuners will agree with me... Stock 16+ induction hose especially has more advanced oil separation and what gets through is the thin stuff that gets burned off, but I will say that whose who modify the 16+ intake with older evap hoses or adapters may get more oil into the intake too, but still, Stratified has a great article that explains how catch cans don't prevent carbon buildup HERE, specifically note the technical reasons why @MagnetiseST was on the right track when he mentions not the right vacuum, in the right place to really help when it specifically comes to carbon buildup... Now if you want to install them anyway to maybe keep some thin oil out of your IC and charge pipes, that might be effective. I just wanted to point out the actual technical reasons how catch cans don't help with carbon buildup, it's not like years ago when there wasn't 2 factory oil separators in play already, mechanics will also make up their minds years before the tech changes and too stubborn to revisit that opinion when the tech does change... I totally agree in using SN Plus rated full synthetic changed every 5-6k, driving it hard to burn off as much stuff possible with an e30 tune (alcohol vapors will help clean out PCV system) and always using Top Tier to keep injection tips and exhaust valves clean... Anyway, nothing personal, just trying to spread some knowledge when there is plenty of evidence to the contrary of what you claim as fact man... Also, WMI and Aux fuel is the only guaranteed way to prevent it and they have chemical services you can do into the intake system directly that can "help", especially if you stay on top of it when new and do the service as often as you can.
    '17 Magnetic, black wheels/red calipers only option - New Feb, '18. Dizzy V2 93/e30 with Cobb TC at 3 as daily smooth tune, Stratified v4.00 93 octane with Stratified Optimal TC for aggressive driving. Torque Solutions 75a RMM, Mojo Mfg short shift kit, drop-in filter w/cold air shroud cutout. Whoosh silicone Symposer delete, Magnaflow glasspack muffler with 9" resonated tip, Powerflex passenger side engine mount insert with ARP bolt upgrade, step colder NGK plugs gapped at .0275. Driver side/trans mount insert and TB Performance Traction Bar on hand waiting to go in.

    FYI - 92 octane e10 pump premium is very close to if not actually 93 octane, start with a 93 tune and datalog from there or you're leaving free power on the table over running 91 tunes.

 

 
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