100 watt H1s in high beams?

[M-Sport fan]

The search showed nothing, so I will ask;

Has anyone on here tried to put 100W H1 bulbs in the high beam location in our USDM factory headlight assembly, either with, or without dedicated relays for them?

IF so, were the switches, and wiring up to the added stress, or would those need to be upgraded as well as adding relays??

Did the reflectors, lenses, and bulb connectors start to melt with the 100 watt bulbs???

Thanks in advance,

Dave H.

 

[JDG]

The search showed nothing, so I will ask;

Has anyone on here tried to put 100W H1 bulbs in the high beam location in our USDM factory headlight assembly, either with, or without dedicated relays for them?

IF so, were the switches, and wiring up to the added stress, or would those need to be upgraded as well as adding relays??

Did the reflectors, lenses, and bulb connectors start to melt with the 100 watt bulbs???

Thanks in advance,

Dave H.

In my opinion, this is not a good idea. I think you risk melting/deforming your plastic lenses from the added heat of the 100W bulbs and melting both your stock wiring and connectors by not using a relay and sending power directly from the battery. Stock wiring is typically small, and in my Jeep, too small for even the stock 55W bulbs (large voltage drop along the wires). I run glass lenses for my 100W fog lights in my Jeep and although I don't know what temperature they run at, I suspect it is > 200 F when they are on for awhile and the car is stationary (no convection to cool them). At that temp, you are right on the cusp of the temperature at which plastic deforms:

http://www.pvc.org/en/p/heat-distortion-temperature-softening-temperature

You can certainly try it but personally, I believe it is a bad idea with too much risk for very little reward. I think you are better off mounting auxiliary lights that come on with high beam and are wired directly from the battery using a relay that is triggered from the high beam circuit. Nowadays you can get some very nice LED pod lights for under $300 a set and there are some manufacturers who make some nice rally-style light bar mounts for our cars.

 

[Brickell FIST]

M-Sport:

I have been using Hella H1 100w. Just swapped them with the factory. I don't use them for long periods of time. I didn't add any special switches or relays. No issues. Hope that helps.

http://www.rallylights.com/hella-h1-yellow-star-dichroic-all-weather-bulb-12v-55w-110w.html

 

[thePete]

I would add a relay, since you can see improvements on stock bulbs by relaying them appropriately. Also 100W is a lot to pull through the stock wiring. If you wire them with relays, the only concern I would have is heat into the housing. Probably like most high-output lights, as long as you only use them while moving, you should be ok...

 

[M-Sport fan]

M-Sport:

I have been using Hella H1 100w. Just swapped them with the factory. I don't use them for long periods of time. I didn't add any special switches or relays. No issues. Hope that helps.

http://www.rallylights.com/hella-h1-yellow-star-dichroic-all-weather-bulb-12v-55w-110w.html

Yes, thanks!

I was going to try either the Hellas, or the Teuton made Osrams.

There was asolutely NO even beginnings of melting (even discoloration?) either the reflector, or the connector plug, for the short period use??

 

[M-Sport fan]

I would add a relay, since you can see improvements on stock bulbs by relaying them appropriately. Also 100W is a lot to pull through the stock wiring. If you wire them with relays, the only concern I would have is heat into the housing. Probably like most high-output lights, as long as you only use them while moving, you should be ok...

Unless I am stuck in night time stop and go traffic, I never even have the low beams on while stopped.

 

[Brickell FIST]

I haven't seen any negatives. They look cool while parked. Reflectes blue and yellow. I don't use them that often. If I do it is at speed on the highway.

 

[Brickell FIST]

Be the first to try this...most powerful lights I have seen. http://www.superbrighthids.com/h1---75w--100w-hid.html

 

[M-Sport fan]

Be the first to try this...most powerful lights I have seen. http://www.superbrighthids.com/h1---75w--100w-hid.html

IF I had a headlight assembly which was made for HIDs, I would.

Despite so many on here saying that there are NO problems with the reflectors NOT being designed for LEDs/HIDs, I personally am one who will NOT EVER put these light sources into a designed for halogen bulb reflector.

 

[Sam4]

They were among my first modifications - and maybe the cheapest! Once I looked at The "LL" designation, I knew the were just good ole' H1s.

 

[M-Sport fan]

They were among my first modifications - and maybe the cheapest! Once I looked at The "LL" designation, I knew the were just good ole' H1s.

Which, the Super Bright HIDs, or a 100W halogen H1??

 

[Sam4]

Halogens. I think the designation is H1LL (probably long life). They don't project farther or wider, just brighter. For you m sport fan, aquetong, Wismer, and cutaloosa rds will be even better!

 

[thePete]

Well the light projection/throw/pattern is a function of the reflector, so I wouldn't expect more range, just more usable light.

And yes that's what "ll" bulbs are. Usually they use that type in the dtrl socket. They make a variety of bulbs in "ll" designations.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

Halogens. I think the designation is H1LL (probably long life). They don't project farther or wider, just brighter. For you m sport fan, aquetong, Wismer, and cutaloosa rds will be even better!

Mechanicsville and Sugan roads are the REAL 'DANGER ZONES' as far as taking out (or them taking ME out!) the hoofed pellet droppers go, but yes, those byways you've mentioned above can be just as pitch black as these at night.