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14’ Tuxedo Black | G25-550 | 400WHP

Messages
41
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28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
#1
2014 FiST Tuxedo Black - 3rd owner purchased with 92k mi. Stock engine, stock clutch, stock tranny. Will be acquiring many parts over the next month or two and want a place to keep track of it and maybe share some info or gain some knowledge.

Current Build:

NGK One-Step Colder Plugs
Injen Catback Exhaust
Boomba rear motor mount
Generic catch can
MeisterR ZetaCRD Coilovers

Modified 2J Racing Cowl Induction Intake
Garrett G25-550 turbo
Peron Hardpipe
Peron catless 3” DP
Turbosmart hypergate 45 EWG
Turbosmart Kompact Diverter Valve
Peron boost hose
Peron inlet hose
Nortech tubular exhaust manifold
Bravo Alpha intercooler
Bravo alpha 320LPH fuel pump
Peron 4port aux fuel (purchasing shortly)

Will be posting install pics, data for what I can and some product shots probably. Excited to get it going and put together.

Cheers!
 


Last edited:
Messages
447
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211
Location
Chesapeake, VA, USA
#2
Be careful with that. Most part suppliers and companies in general recommend you get forged pistons before trying to push that kind of power on a stock motor. We have people here who have done this and daily them but if you ever plan to drag race it I would definitely consider a forged rebuild.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
Likes
28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #3
Be careful with that. Most part suppliers and companies in general recommend you get forged pistons before trying to push that kind of power on a stock motor. We have people here who have done this and daily them but if you ever plan to drag race it I would definitely consider a forged rebuild.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
completely and totally agree! It will be tamed a bit for a while until it’s next phase of building and/or it blows up lol. Will be rebuilding at some point in the future then really give it the beans.

who else is running the g25 here? Curious on its performance. I am not setup yet. Hopefully all midrange isnt gone to not.
 


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470
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263
Location
langhorne
#4
completely and totally agree! It will be tamed a bit for a while until it’s next phase of building and/or it blows up lol. Will be rebuilding at some point in the future then really give it the beans.

who else is running the g25 here? Curious on its performance. I am not setup yet. Hopefully all midrange isnt gone to not.
I know 2 guys running it. Daniel is running it on a completely done up pumaspeed motor with a built bottom end and head. Hes aiming for ~500whp and the thing hits full boost at like 4k rpms, its a nutty setup. Wesley is running it on a stock motor and is making right under 400whp on e70.
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
Likes
28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #5
I know 2 guys running it. Daniel is running it on a completely done up pumaspeed motor with a built bottom end and head. Hes aiming for ~500whp and the thing hits full boost at like 4k rpms, its a nutty setup. Wesley is running it on a stock motor and is making right under 400whp on e70.
That’s super rad, mine will be much more like wesleys for now. Not sure if I want to go full e85 or not.. people keep telling me no. Honestly though, for convenience I think it would be superb.
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
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28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #6
That’s super rad, mine will be much more like wesleys for now. Not sure if I want to go full e85 or not.. people keep telling me no. Honestly though, for convenience I think it would be superb.
Which might be e70 at my pump... which would then be chill.
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
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28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #10
40CD5F0B-5148-4FF8-A0B1-4AE63AD3C03F.jpeg
Intercooler mounted after some slow brain stuff happened... thanks to those that helped. Derp. Had to trim back hot and cold side charge pipes to fit. Also bracket faces outside as seen here against that cross member. Cold side pipe in too... fit well and looks legit. Interesting how different the cabin sounds with symposer delete.
 


JDG

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Premium Account
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960
Location
Conshohocken, PA
#15
View attachment 29100
Intercooler mounted after some slow brain stuff happened... thanks to those that helped. Derp. Had to trim back hot and cold side charge pipes to fit. Also bracket faces outside as seen here against that cross member. Cold side pipe in too... fit well and looks legit. Interesting how different the cabin sounds with symposer delete.
Anymore photos of how the tow strap is mounted? Would love to replicate it.
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
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Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #16
Anymore photos of how the tow strap is mounted? Would love to replicate it.
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
 


OP
xxiaze
Messages
41
Likes
28
Location
West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #17
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
And, FWIW I’ve been ripped out of snow banks with it by trucks etc.... holds up just fine. Works well.
 


JDG

1000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
1,374
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960
Location
Conshohocken, PA
#18
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
Thanks, can you take a photo of where it pokes out of the bumper with the bumper cover fully installed?
 


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8,584
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1,867
Location
Solebury, Pennsyltuckeyvania
#19
Most grades of stainless bolts sold are NOT magnetic at all, especially not the 18/8 grade sold at most hardware/warehouse stores.
Are you sure it was a stainless bolt (actually a non-stainless grade 10.8 would be a better grade for use in that app anyway, with a higher yield strength, and not as 'brittle' as any stainless grade, albeit yes, much more prone to corrosion in a winter 'salt soup' condition area)?
 




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