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14’ Tuxedo Black | TURDBO BUILD

xxiaze

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West Bend, WI, USA
#1
2014 FiST Tuxedo Black - 3rd owner purchased with 92k mi. Stock engine, stock clutch, stock tranny. Wanting a place to keep track of the build and maybe share some info or gain some knowledge.

Current Build:

NGK One-Step Colder Plugs
Injen Catback Exhaust
Boomba rear motor mount
Generic catch can - w/ VTA & check valves
MeisterR ZetaCRD Coilovers
Modified 2J Racing Cowl Induction Intake
Garrett G25-550 turbo
Peron Hardpipe
Peron catless 3” DP
Turbosmart hypergate 45 EWG
Turbosmart Kompact Diverter Valve
Peron boost hose
Peron inlet hose
Nortech tubular exhaust manifold
Bravo Alpha intercooler
Bravo Alpha DW300C 340LPH fuel pump

Stratified 4 Port Aux Fuel

Will be posting install pics, data for what I can and some product shots probably. Excited to get it going and put together.

Cheers!
 


Last edited:

Rocketst

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#2
Be careful with that. Most part suppliers and companies in general recommend you get forged pistons before trying to push that kind of power on a stock motor. We have people here who have done this and daily them but if you ever plan to drag race it I would definitely consider a forged rebuild.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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West Bend, WI, USA
Thread Starter #3
Be careful with that. Most part suppliers and companies in general recommend you get forged pistons before trying to push that kind of power on a stock motor. We have people here who have done this and daily them but if you ever plan to drag race it I would definitely consider a forged rebuild.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
completely and totally agree! It will be tamed a bit for a while until it’s next phase of building and/or it blows up lol. Will be rebuilding at some point in the future then really give it the beans.

who else is running the g25 here? Curious on its performance. I am not setup yet. Hopefully all midrange isnt gone to not.
 


wetwea33

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#4
completely and totally agree! It will be tamed a bit for a while until it’s next phase of building and/or it blows up lol. Will be rebuilding at some point in the future then really give it the beans.

who else is running the g25 here? Curious on its performance. I am not setup yet. Hopefully all midrange isnt gone to not.
I know 2 guys running it. Daniel is running it on a completely done up pumaspeed motor with a built bottom end and head. Hes aiming for ~500whp and the thing hits full boost at like 4k rpms, its a nutty setup. Wesley is running it on a stock motor and is making right under 400whp on e70.
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Thread Starter #5
I know 2 guys running it. Daniel is running it on a completely done up pumaspeed motor with a built bottom end and head. Hes aiming for ~500whp and the thing hits full boost at like 4k rpms, its a nutty setup. Wesley is running it on a stock motor and is making right under 400whp on e70.
That’s super rad, mine will be much more like wesleys for now. Not sure if I want to go full e85 or not.. people keep telling me no. Honestly though, for convenience I think it would be superb.
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Thread Starter #6
That’s super rad, mine will be much more like wesleys for now. Not sure if I want to go full e85 or not.. people keep telling me no. Honestly though, for convenience I think it would be superb.
Which might be e70 at my pump... which would then be chill.
 


ron@whoosh

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#9
View attachment 29097
Stoked! Got the plug from Ron over at whoosh... if you see this thanks for all your help man, much appreciated. Looking forward to getting this all in.
that's a great set up
enjoy and thank you for the orders and support!
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Thread Starter #10
40CD5F0B-5148-4FF8-A0B1-4AE63AD3C03F.jpeg
Intercooler mounted after some slow brain stuff happened... thanks to those that helped. Derp. Had to trim back hot and cold side charge pipes to fit. Also bracket faces outside as seen here against that cross member. Cold side pipe in too... fit well and looks legit. Interesting how different the cabin sounds with symposer delete.
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Thread Starter #13
Nevermind, forgor that us have bigger crashbar, just look funny like that, cause crash bar stoping air from hiting cooler
Yeah, it’s kinda silly but it will get the job done. Flows plenty well still. I just have to sand down my crash bar and paint it...
 


JDG

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#15
View attachment 29100
Intercooler mounted after some slow brain stuff happened... thanks to those that helped. Derp. Had to trim back hot and cold side charge pipes to fit. Also bracket faces outside as seen here against that cross member. Cold side pipe in too... fit well and looks legit. Interesting how different the cabin sounds with symposer delete.
Anymore photos of how the tow strap is mounted? Would love to replicate it.
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Thread Starter #16
Anymore photos of how the tow strap is mounted? Would love to replicate it.
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
 


OP
xxiaze

xxiaze

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Messages
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Location
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Thread Starter #17
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
And, FWIW I’ve been ripped out of snow banks with it by trucks etc.... holds up just fine. Works well.
 


JDG

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#18
I do not have anymore photos unfortunately... I just put my bumper back on too! Sigh. What I did was buy a stainless strong bolt from homedepot and stainless washers and stainless lock washer and stainless nut ha.... stainless everything and good bolt. I then marked my crash bar while holding the strap up to to car. Visually got it where I wanted it. I then punched a hole in the crash bar.... it literally took like 2hrs to do that part and like 5 drill bits and a step up bit all toast. Then take the bolt and carry it down the tube of the crash bar with a magnet rod. Fish in the bolt through new hole you just made in crash bar. Then...... to tighten it was magic. I would probably have to talk someone through that part lol. Let’s just say extensions and patience. Once you’ve got it tightened up you’re good.... just takes a little dedication and problem solving.

you can definitely figure it out just by looking at it if you have half logic. When I get my bumper off again soon I’ll snap a pic. But, really it’s just a stainless but and bolt with lock washer..... use logic for the rest.

just don’t install it tooooooo deep down the crash bar where you can’t access with extensions and stuff the bolt to hold it to tighten. Sorry I suck at describing!
Thanks, can you take a photo of where it pokes out of the bumper with the bumper cover fully installed?
 


M-Sport fan

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#19
Most grades of stainless bolts sold are NOT magnetic at all, especially not the 18/8 grade sold at most hardware/warehouse stores.
Are you sure it was a stainless bolt (actually a non-stainless grade 10.8 would be a better grade for use in that app anyway, with a higher yield strength, and not as 'brittle' as any stainless grade, albeit yes, much more prone to corrosion in a winter 'salt soup' condition area)?
 




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