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What floor jack?

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Location
Austin
#2
I use the cheapest aluminum floor jack harbor freight sells with a rubber pinch weld adapter purchased off ebay
 


TyphoonFiST

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#3
I use a low profile jack from Northern tool and equipment....it was like $120....works great! super slim thickness wise also! [thumb]
 


green_henry

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Location
Pleasant Hill, CA
#4
The 2-ton Pittsburgh racing floor jack from Harbor Freight works great for me. My other car is an Acura TSX and when I lowered it, my old jack wouldn't work but the Pittsburgh jack had no problems. I haven't lowered my FiST yet but I rotated the tires last week and there was plenty of clearance.
 


M-Sport fan

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#5
I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton jack I bought on sale about 15 years ago.

It fit under my coil over lowered LS1 Z28, so there should be no problems with getting under my FiST when lowered about an inch (in the future).
 


Messages
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183
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
#7
I just had the 1.5 ton Harbor Freight special fail on me after about a year of use. The front roller seized up a while ago then the whole jack started twisting recently. I guess that is what you get for $60 though.
 


Messages
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98
Location
New Castle
#8
Is that the 1.5 ton one? I have been eyeballing it for awhile. Can get it with a coupon for only $60.
Yeah, that is the one I have. I've used it to raise the car about 10 times maybe in the last year? Still works, but is starting to make some uncomfortable noises. I might see if I need to add hydro oil or bleed it or something. As others have mentioned, with HF you get what you pay for - which means functional, but will fail in the short term. My next jack will be something more substantial (and expensive). But if money is tight, it should do just fine. But use jack stands! I would never, ever, ever get under the car with this PoS only. Hell, I don't even trust my jack stands 100% and usually throw in a stack of bricks.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60569.html


But also pick up something to go easy around the pinch weld since the HF jack just has a flat disc. I've had this and it shows a little wear, but hasn't split yet.

https://www.amazon.com/TMB-Single-Universal-Slotted-Protector/dp/B01GXPIHY6
 


Messages
182
Likes
54
Location
Gatineau
#9
Got a 3 ton from Canadian tire on sale for like a 100CAD. I had a small 1.5 or 2 tons before, but it went up to only about 14 inches, so I got the bigger one for 2 things: Get the FiST higher to have more clearance when I work under it AND the other jack was not going high enough to change the tires on our SUV. The new jack goes up to 18 inches. Now my jack stands are the problem as they reach only 16 inches. Still better than 14.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#11
Last edited:

TyphoonFiST

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#12
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M-Sport fan

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#13
I just got the Prothane ones for my Craftsman 3 ton stands.

IF using the 3 ton EACH jack stands, most of them require a jack which will go higher than ~17" lift height.
 


alexrex20

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Spring
#14
I also use the 2ton aluminum low pro jack from Harbor Freight. My cousin got it for me and it's perfect.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 


alexrex20

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#16
I just jack directly on the pinch weld. Been doing it that way for years. I'm still alive and I've yet to damage any of my vehicles.
 


koozy

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Los Angeles, CA, USA
#17
nothing wrong with lifting from the pinch, if it bends you can bend it back. I prefer to avoid that so I typically try to use pads, wood block, etc. Depending on the work I'm going to be doing I prefer to lift the front end of the car from the chassis where my jack stand is in this photo below and for the rear I like to lift from the center of rear beam, a couple of pumps and whole rear end is up. Once the car is up, I always leave the jack lifted somewhere underneath as a second support to the stands on the side I'll be under.

 


M-Sport fan

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#18
nothing wrong with lifting from the pinch, if it bends you can bend it back. I prefer to avoid that so I typically try to use pads, wood block, etc. Depending on the work I'm going to be doing I prefer to lift the front end of the car from the chassis where my jack stand is in this photo below and for the rear I like to lift from the center of rear beam, a couple of pumps and whole rear end is up. Once the car is up, I always leave the jack lifted somewhere underneath as a second support to the stands on the side I'll be under.

Same here, but the only problem I've found with lifting it from that jack stand point location is that it will sometimes '3 wheel' the jack, due to the way the angle of that unibody section contacts the jack pad. :(
 


alexrex20

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#20
Same here, but the only problem I've found with lifting it from that jack stand point location is that it will sometimes '3 wheel' the jack, due to the way the angle of that unibody section contacts the jack pad. :(
Same here. That's why I don't lift from the suggested jack points. I set my jack about 1ft rear of the forward jack point. It lifts front and rear. :p
 


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