180F Ford Motorcraft Thermostat now available

[M-Sport fan]

I have no problems using Redline Waterwetter with Dexcool. Many issues that occur with coolant additives is user error in not executing proper preparation.

This is somewhat true for all of the LSx owners who have had gumming/gelling problems with that combo, as they probably had too much air in their cooling systems, which propagated this failure.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I see what you're saying. Most newer models 'should' already have the fixes/updates and things done to them before they come out of the factory

Is there ANY chance whatsoever that the late '16 model year builds had the 180* thermostat right from the factory?

 

[koozy]

I treat my FiST like a treat my 212,000 mile 1985 BMW e28, which I have had since '85. I must be doing something right, LOL.

 

[TDavis]

Is there ANY chance whatsoever that the late '16 model year builds had the 180* thermostat right from the factory?

Doubt it, if so they put them in for 16's but not 17's because my 2017 didn't like the backroads when it was 98F degrees outside.

 

[jmrtsus]

You'll notice a common trend with owners manuals. What do they want you to use and nothing else? Motorcraft, because thats Ford. What parts do they want you to use? Motorcraft or Ford parts(Yes I know Motorcraft is Ford but they're two separate branches). This is why I tell people the owners manual isn't the bible. People who follow the bible disown any other brand thats not what the manual recommends. Obviously Ford will recommend Motorcraft but is that ALL you should/need to use? Highly debatable.

Now when discussing if its still under warranty, then obviously use OEM since it would void the warranty. But once out? Its an open world.

I also plan to keep this car for years and years as I am not the type to sell and buy my vehicles left and right. So props for that

Ford recommends Motorcraft but gives the spec's to use ANY brand that meets the spec's, that is the purpose of the manual to provide those spec's for all fluids. You cannot even buy the Motorcraft full synthetic oil except as Kendall GT1 or by the barrel. I will probably switch to the Castrol with Titanium, if it's good enough for the GT my Fifi will be happy. I am not promoting Motorcraft fluids but will suggest the FL-400S oil filter!

 

[TDavis]

Ford recommends Motorcraft but gives the spec's to use ANY brand that meets the spec's, that is the purpose of the manual to provide those spec's for all fluids. You cannot even buy the Motorcraft full synthetic oil except as Kendall GT1 or by the barrel. I will probably switch to the Castrol with Titanium, if it's good enough for the GT my Fifi will be happy. I am not promoting Motorcraft fluids but will suggest the FL-400S oil filter!

When you say can't buy Motorcraft full synthetic oil, do you mean trans oil or motor oil?

 

[jmrtsus]

When you say can't buy Motorcraft full synthetic oil, do you mean trans oil or motor oil?

Motor oil.....can get the Blend but not the full synthetic. Been using the Kendall GT 1 since car was new as it is the same as the Motorcraft. The new Castrol Edge also uses the Titanium additive Ford likes so I may switch to it.

 

[TDavis]

Motor oil.....can get the Blend but not the full synthetic. Been using the Kendall GT 1 since car was new as it is the same as the Motorcraft. The new Castrol Edge also uses the Titanium additive Ford likes so I may switch to it.

My dealer sells the Motorcraft full synthetic and blend here. Thats odd.

 

[jmrtsus]

My dealer sells the Motorcraft full synthetic and blend here. Thats odd.

Parts stores can get the blend, some of the Ford sites say discontinued for the full. Wally world says "not available". Two years ago I bought the last jug O'Reilly had.The only place it is still available is individuals on Amazon online that I can find. Dealer here can get it only by the barrel they said for oil changes. I think they are going to switch from the Kendall to the Castrol with them sponsoring the GT's. I can get the Kendall GT 1 MAX for $5.00 Qt for 12 qts delivered. So I will do that or switch to the Castrol Edge EP for $6.00 Qt.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I am not promoting Motorcraft fluids but will suggest the FL-400S oil filter!

OK, AGREED, but that is technically outside of the sacred 'specs' as well, despite Mountune suggesting their use, and selling (only?) them for these cars.
(Since Ford specs the FL-910S. )

 

[M-Sport fan]

My dealer sells the Motorcraft full synthetic and blend here. Thats odd.

I've NEVER seen Motorcraft FULL Synthetic on the shelf, anywhere.
It seems to have even disappeared online at this point.

 

[jmrtsus]

OK, AGREED, but that is technically outside of the sacred 'specs' as well, despite Mountune suggesting their use, and selling (only?) them for these cars.
(Since Ford specs the FL-910S. )

remember spec's are minimum requirements!

 

[TDavis]

I've NEVER seen Motorcraft FULL Synthetic on the shelf, anywhere.
It seems to have even disappeared online at this point.

Parts stores can get the blend, some of the Ford sites say discontinued for the full. Wally world says "not available". Two years ago I bought the last jug O'Reilly had.The only place it is still available is individuals on Amazon online that I can find. Dealer here can get it only by the barrel they said for oil changes. I think they are going to switch from the Kendall to the Castrol with them sponsoring the GT's. I can get the Kendall GT 1 MAX for $5.00 Qt for 12 qts delivered. So I will do that or switch to the Castrol Edge EP for $6.00 Qt.

That is REALLY weird

 

[koozy]

In this day in age the days of going to your neighbor parts store to get something specific is becoming few and far between, especially for esoteric items. The older one is, the harder it may be to come to terms with the reality of that. I'm a gen x and have observed this experience. Almost everything and anything that's available for sale is accessible on the World Wide Web. There may be a price for that convenience or inconvenience, but it's available.

 

[alexrex20]

Well I just finished installing the 180 F thermostat. What a pain in the butt. Thanks to Koozy for a lot of pointers that made it easier for me, though it was definitely still a learning process. Initially I tried to remove the serpentine belt from the top on the tensioner, but it can only be done from the bottom. To access it from the bottom you have to remove the passenger front wheel and then a little splash guard which is held on by two screws. It was very simple, I don't know why I was so reluctant LOL. Everything was pretty straightforward and I also was reluctant to remove the headlight But ultimately it had to be done. That too is a very simple procedure. All in all I had to remove the front wheel, the headlight, the alternator, and the AC compressor. I did not fully remove the AC compressor, I simply unbolted its mounts and let it hang a little bit to give me access to the lower bolts on the thermostat housing. I also did not remove the small bypass hose on the housing. That spring clamp is just about impossible to get to and I did not feel like pulling off the oil filter to give me a little bit better access. The bypass hose is long and flexible enough that I still had plenty of room to work with on the housing with the hose attached. I think it was about 1.5 hours start to finish.

Another tip: when reinstalling the serpentine belt, route the belt around all the pulleys except the water pump. Once you leverage the tensioner out of the way, you can easily slip the belt onto the smooth pulley. The alternator and AC compressor are grooved and very difficult to access from the bottom where you have to be to access the tensioner.


Edit: Come to think of it, you shouldn't even need to take the wheel off. The splash panel is attached from under the car. I removed the wheel because I thought the panel attached from inside the wheel well.

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[koozy]

good job! was the OE thermostat marked with a temp?

 

[alexrex20]

Make your life easier with ratcheting wrenches in 13mm and 15mm. The MVP of the process is what I call the floppy dick. It's a flexible 1/4in driver. Pictured.

This made it so much easier to access the lower bolts on the housing. And same with the valve thingy that bolts on top of the housing. They are all attached with 8mm bolts.

Make sure you have a swivel too. I didn't really use any special tools. You will need T20 Torx for the splash panel and headlight screws.

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[alexrex20]

good job! was the OE thermostat marked with a temp?

No it was not. I'll take pics when i get back home.

Also, you weren't kidding about those damn spring clamps on the small hose! [emoji51]

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[koozy]

I think in the grand scheme of things it's pretty easy. It's always hard the first time trying to find the right tools, access, etc, but if you had to do it again it would be cake.

 

[alexrex20]

I think in the grand scheme of things it's pretty easy. It's always hard the first time trying to find the right tools, access, etc, but if you had to do it again it would be cake.

Ya. It wasn't bad. I wouldn't mind helping another local FiST. I bet we could do it in under an hour next time. Another great example of me making everything harder than it needed to be, was to simply let coolant drip everywhere instead of draining the rad properly into a receptacle. I was fighting slippery tools the whole time lol

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